R Scott

There are hydraulic Jack hammers, but I have never seen a tamper.

Tampers have a much longer stroke than other tools, it is hard to adapt other tools without spending more than just buying good used equipment.

The biggest issue in my opinion is the soap and “grey stuff” plugging up the drip emitters. Not worth the hassle of cleaning and replacing them all the time.

I am 110% for using grey water to grow plants, just not through drip irrigation

Congrats!

Definitely know your budget!

Be flexible on size, land OFTEN comes with a bulk discount. Last piece of property we were looking for 5-10, ended up with 80 for less. This time it is 160. Most mortgages are limited to 10 acres or less. Larger tracts are hard to finance, especially those that are mixed woods and pasture/farmland.

I have with wood posts. I have also done dry-pack concrete for metal posts—just pour in dry concrete mix and tamp it tight. Then I might add water if the ground is dry but usually there is enough moisture here to cure it. I haven’t been around long enough to know which fails.

You can add gauge wheels to a box blade to turn it into a much better grader. But they get expensive enough you might as well get a land plane.

https://www.everythingattachments.com/Tractor-Landscape-Rake-Gauge-Wheels-p/eta%20gauge%20wheels.htm

The best thing you can do to improve any 3 point tool grading is to get a hydraulic top link. The ability to adjust the angle of attack on the fly really helps. I would call it required if you can’t reach back and twist the top link from the seat.

You probably will do both. Eventually.

You will need a roof to keep your straw dry. 55 inches a year and it rains at least once a week (no dry season) will ruin your straw really quick.

You might end up digging a pond, too, to get your hands on clay. Might as well have a useful hole when you’re done.

Another option is to find an old full flush toilet and rebuild it. Around here, habitat re-stores will sell them but I know some places that is against law.

Katadyn combi is a backpacking filter that has an adapter available that turns it into a countertop filter.

Another option, the one I use, is a doulton rio 2000. It puts six ceramic filters into a blue whole house filter housing. It was available on Amazon.

There are kits available online and diy versions on YouTube of the old high mount tank with the chain flushing handle. The extra velocity gives it the boost like the pressure inserts but only needs enough extra pressure to lift the water an extra 6 feet higher.

Yup, springtime!

There are a couple ways I would consider doing it, depending on climate and budget/availability

I am building in Tennessee, so mild winters but humid summers. I plan to use low-e or reflected.  A roll out insulation and vapor barrier between the framing and metal. It is enough to stop most condensation and thermal bridging. Then I will use rock wool because it is more mold resistant than fiberglass. There will be venting between the metal and low e.

If I were in a colder climate, I would use spray foam. It’s the cheapest way to get HIGH R values when built planning for it. It is a little gicky but all commercial insulation is and spray foam is probably the lowest embodied energy. There is a ton of diesel wasted moving around bulky insulation.