R Scott

Search for "hesco" they were used in Iraq a lot, basically a quick unfolding gabbion cage with bulk bag liner to make giant sandbags for walls and such.  Pretty cheap to diy with cattle panel and bulk bags.  You will need something to protect from UV

Look at what they do in Alaska to deal with frost heaving, usually putting large threaded adjusters on all the foundation posts.  Very simple to re level the house when the foundation settles.

You need a Shepard. Or cowboy.

I think it will take 300 watts to push the 40 gpm for the source water, depending on head and loss.  So 500 watts instead of 15000.

They didn't make sense in an on grid house with cheap electricity, as the payback used to be 15ish years, and priced way out of most people's budget.  Instead of paying an electric bill they had a second mortgage to pay for the AC.

But the power savings for a large space are CRAZY, I remember a church that put in one of these systems and they figured they spent more electricity on the lights than the AC!

Off grid or high grid power costs, and big price reductions make these a lot more fiscally viable. And a lot more environmentally friendly as far as AC goes.

Well, it takes a little more than 48 watts in most cases, most people would have to pump the 40 gpm cooling water.  Total install cost on a small system is (or at least was) considerably higher than conventional HVAC or even ground loop heat pumps.

IF you have a spring or hydro setup with enough flow and head, it will absolutely work.  Completely self powered with micro hydro on the exhaust.

It is, or at least was, real.

One version was kind of a drinking fountain spout that hooked to the tank float valve so it only ran when the tank was refilling.  And only cold water. Not good.

Probably the most popular tiny house sink is the ikea lillangen https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/lillangen-sink-white-70207144/

I like this one better, it is a little bit bigger.  Close to regular size sink, just removed the backsplash and space for the faucet behind it.  https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/hagaviken-sink-white-20324503/

Definitely block the walls for handrails while the studs are open. The other option is to use 3/4 plywood as wainscot to get solid anchor points, but you lose room in an already tight space.

I usually grab a roll of tape, an actual toilet, and a box the size I think I want the sink cabinet and do layouts on the shop floor.

The canvas of a yurt can get rodent damage very quickly, especially when not occupied. Mold too depending on your climate.  

Tiny houses can be made more rodent proof, but it costs money to get all those details right. Their mold issues can be slightly better, but again it depends on the details and materials.

Type of mold matters and whether anyone living there is susceptible to it.  ALL lumber and straw have spores on them and will grow whenever the conditions allow.

There is a product called concrobium that is the gold standard that people who are sick from mold and are chemical sensitive use to treat black mold. It is pretty mild on the toxic meter. More toxic than vinegar, less toxic than the mycotoxin some molds release when you spray them with vinegar or bleach.

The product leaves a residue that helps prevent future growth.  I would treat the roof as soon as you can, using proper methods and safety gear.

I know lots that have parked the trailer in what would become the shop or barn--large metal building. I have seen videos of people building their house inside a greenhouse.  No reason it shouldn't work.