R Scott

Any of the pro grade cordless tool ones work well, pick the brand you already have or want to invest in. Get the 1/2 impact and sockets to fit your lug nuts if you want to dramatically speed up tire changes.

If you want corded 12v, I have had good luck with Viair. You’ll need the RV/trailer version to reach trailer tires.

Then a kei trick is probably out, the right hand drive and being made for those of short stature would
make it worse than an atv for mounting/dismounting. Besides they are almost as expensive as a side by side these days.

My son uses a minivan—transmission is bad but first gear and reverse still work. The run around vehicle at work is a clapped out Jeep Cherokee. Both vehicles were headed to the crusher. Way cheaper than any side by side or Kei truck or golf cart.

I am looking for a legacy golf cart like John’s because I agree that is the best option for the little run around jobs, but other things are higher priorities so far.

Definitely not hog proof. Probably not deer in a drought proof, but cheap enough to let an orchard get established without spending more on fence than trees.

And not my garden, just a cool channel from my feed.

I’d probably add a poly wire or tape at nose level for a little extra motivation.

There are multiple sizes of mesh, 6x6 inch is most common, but 2” and even 3/4” are available.  Even with smaller mesh, it isn’t going to be tight enough to the ground to keep rabbits out.

The top has a guy wire that is tensioned outside the fence footprint, that can be an issue for some.

The fence itself is made from garden trellis netting, you can get several grades but even the weakest is stronger than the deer and bird netting available from tractor supply or other big box stores.

It is tensioned lightly, better than electric net but definitely not high tension.

It would have issues on rolling or hilly ground, but for fairly smooth ground it is an order of magnitude cheaper than any other option I have seen that can be bought.

I am more concerned about the quality of the handle than the style, but generally D is for digging.

I would wait until you are ready to plant the mounds to build them. I have learned from experience they disappear in 6 ft ryegrass only to be found with a tire or mower or ankle. It’s much easier to manage cover crops as a smooth field.

I agree you shouldn’t need to bring in soil to do this if you want.

I have had good luck micro swales, puddle swales, crescent swales, whatever you want to call them. Basically dig out a small puddle size hole and mound the dirt into a planting mound. It is great for those trees that hate wet feet, but not a ton of work even by hand.  Try not to take ALL the topsoil from the puddle area if you want to replant it, fill it with organic matter if you go all the way to subsoil—wood chips, hay, straw, grass clippings, cheapest easiest you can get.

Keyline plowing or subsoiling can help with drainage if the issue is a compaction layer/plow pan, but won’t help much if you have deep clay.

The YouTube channel arkopia has a good series on building a passive solar greenhouse in Canada.

Eliot Coleman does talk about minimum light requirements, but I can’t find the YouTube where it is all in one place. He did do a podcast with his daughter that covered a lot of it.