Andor Horvath

Dale,
here's a link to anvifire's power hammer page; if you're lucky you're working with a little giant - easiest to get support/parts for
http://anvilfire.com/power/

awesome build and documentation, thanks for sharing
you might want to cross post this over to Donkey's board too

yes, you need a gap under the pot, and a pot skirt: you're choking the path.
Look up Approvecho for the basics.

try this: all masonry; http://www.flickr.com/photos/rocket_stove/show/
and here's the bell discussion on the other board, it's long, read it all
http://donkey32.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=experiment&action=display&thread=113

...I guess I'm not sure what you're shooting for; mass heater only?

"Rocket" anything means (to me): highly insulated combustion unit operating at high enough temps to acheive complete fuel combustion. Only after this unit (component) is heat extracted...

here's a link to a small combo unit: http://www.firespeaking.com/portfolio/the-cabin-stove/ (not really a rocket, but might be on the path you want to go)

otherwise you might want to find the "bell" discussion over at Donkey's board if you want to go all masonry and heat only.

hope this helps

search the boards for masonry heater, there have been some great links posted in the last few days...just make sure you're using the right kind of refractory in the right spot

IMHO,
use insulative high temp refractory materials in the combustion tube and riser, only use metal as a sacrificial form

see Rob's Rocket Heater Autopsy:

an optimised combustion "engine" will easily produce 2000F +

probably the best way to optimize the Tarm is to lower the temp at which you pull off water; 300F for exit temperature at the stack is pretty good. If your stove has the same innards as the 2000 series, it would be difficult to build much better unless you have the diagnostic capabilities to tune it...

Kilgore, building that large in steel allows you to line the steel with refractory materials or you can also try one of the ITC products...

I build metal combustion units too, but I use high tech liners to protect the steel, and to be able to reach proper temperatures.

Some people use stainless steel, I've found that to work, but think refractory liners are a better value.

Search for ITC under kiln accessories, ceramics/pottery supplies: expensive, but you don't lose CSA like with a liner

trish,
you could try a search for "snorkel" stoves, also try contacting this fellow in Bristol http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GHOSRmcM4as