S Bengi

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since Nov 29, 2012
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forest garden solar
Massachusetts, Zone:6/7, AHS:4, Rainfall:48in even Soil:SandyLoam pH6 Flat
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Recent posts by S Bengi

Worm bins inside.
Herbs by the window.
Random house plant.
Container garden on the porch.

Random planting of raspberry/berry plants at hiking parks.
Planting berries/herbs at community garden

Finding a 'church/group' member who owns land and need help to upkeep it, while you need practice for your Permaculture learning.

3 hours ago
Thatched roof?

With a Gabion stone wall or a earthbag(gravel) to act as a stem wall.

Pond liner on the outside, chicken wire on the inside
Ferrocement the inside.
Then remove the pond liner ferrocement the outside.

Then Cover with moss to make it a living roof
4 hours ago
A bigger focus on suburban backyard food forest and high rise food/energy buying and usage pattern. Does seem a good idea vs only focusing on 500+acre farms and 5acre homesteader.
I think that office politic aka pecking order is the same if not worse than complaining/gossiping/venting.

Discussion of any path/problem/person could be seen as gossiping.
When the owner/top management does it. It is deemed okay
When the little guys at the watercooler does it. It is deemed weird.
The truth is that everyone does it, and it is not weird.
The difference is that we don't want the little guys dictating how things are run or even discussing it only the steering committee/owner. Because only we have the power to do that. And guess what as the owner it is okay to setup such a system it is okay to be upfront and say I am a benevolent dictator.

What can help is clearly communicating expectations and clearly listening to the other persons expectations. Then coming to some type of agreement before entering into a IC contract/relationship.

That said I do think it is wise to be respectful, no physical fighting, verbal yelling and slandering others, even if you don't agree with them in terms of way of farming/raising kids/eating habit/religion/etc, etc.

6 hours ago
We cant brand so zip tie works well.

Unless you want to start a new flock (temp coop) with baby chicks(mutts or imported) every two years and cull all the chickens from the old flock. Then move the youngsters into the old coop after some repair.  
6 hours ago
I mostly agree except with walnut (and possible others in that family).
They don't play nice with the prunus sub-family and apple/pear sub-family, but seems okay with blackberry sub-family (maybe it does affect them but it just makes them nice vs invasive). I think they are fine with all the other berry in whatever family.

I have also heard that other than apple the rest of the rose family (prunus+blackberry+pear sub-family) is fine.
And that the tomato and potato are not too happy maybe wolfberry/goji is fine.
Blueberry family is not okay with it
Or the Nannyberry family

Next is polyculture garden (mint/thyme family vs carrot/dill family vs bean family vs onion family vs cabbage family vs spinach family).
The interactions are very complex. Too much to write out. Maybe I will post a infographic chart later, but you didn't really ask about garden just food forest.

6 hours ago
Get ones with very obvious different color vs ones with same color but just vaguely different patterns.

You have a 12month until egg production is affected by chicken age. So for the next 6 months replace with a specific while culling half of the flock
Then switch over to another color bird while culling the rest
For a full list checkout http://www.sagehenfarmlodi.com/chooks/hendersonschickenchart.pdf
6 hours ago
If your winter temp gets down to -30 and the soil freezes to 10ft, no amount of bubbler/straw will help.
But if your soil only freeze to 1ft, Then there is hope.
7 hours ago
A) 25ft+ nut (chestnut, heartnut, etc)
B) 16ft+ fruit (semi-dwarf fruit tree, pawpaw, hazelnut, etc)
C) 10ft+ small fruit (elderberry, goumi, jujube, medlar, columnar apple, dwarf fruit trees)
D) 5ft+ berry (currant, gooseberry, blueberry, etc)
E) 2ft+ herb (mint/thyme family, onion, comfrey, daikon, carrot/celery family)
F) 1ft Dutch Clover

Size of guild at maturity = A+ B/2 + C/2 + D/2 + E/2 = 25+8+5+1 = 39ft + (4ft walkway)
At establishment I plant alot of dutch clover, herbs, berries and then cull as the fruits/nuts require more space.

Dutch Clover for my nitrogen needs
Herbs to confuse pest, predatory insect habitat, onion family for bad soil nematodes, soil areation + mineral mining
Berries for a harvest next year
Small fruit for a harvest the 2nd year
Fruits for a harvest the 3rd year
Nuts for a harvest the 6th year

Dutch clover will provide most of the nitrogen as the food forest matures until it is shaded out.
Autumn olive/Seaberry at the small fruit layer with a harvest
I prefer Adler over locust. They are easier to prune, handle and remove and I can get 16ft+ cultivars or 25+ cultivars or 90ft+ cultivars.

Check out these guys for a list of all the nuts that you can grow in your zone 4.

You can grow most if not all the plants in the prunus subfamily, like apricot, sand cherry, etc.

You can grow pretty much every think in the apple/pear sub fsmily

Sadly no pawpaw for you though.

Most the berries will do fine in your zone 4/5.

When you have 50 different species, the odds of all or even 25% of them getting hit by pesr in any given year is tiny, but over a 20yr period every single one of them will get hit by pest. But on any given year you will be okay.

7 hours ago
If you want to harvest corn to eat/sell/turn to feed. It will take 75days+
So a bit longer than 60days but that is fine, stacking function is good.

To make bio-char a ditch or metal trough and add biomass/dry corn.
Keep on adding a new layer once it develops a layer of ash.
(similar to when light your charcoal to grill and you know it is 'ready' once the heavy smoke and big flames are over and the 'coal' has a thin layer of ash)
There are some designs where you can use the heat/syngas that is generated to power an engine/generator or heat a greenhouse/aquaponic pond, cook with.

8 hours ago