Glenn Herbert

M Ljin,
I have merged your topic into this topic. I hope that helps.

I merged your stuff with the following thread. I hope that is okay by you.

I love the Japanese pullsaws, which can take just a paper-thin kerf out of the wood. As long as they have good guide slots at either end of the stroke, you can get a good board fairly quickly and then plane it to a perfect finish.

With a froe to start making thin planks and a shaving horse and good drawknife, you should be able to make nice smooth thin boards. Planes would be wanted to finish precisely. It would not be efficient if the wood was expensive, so you would need to be able to waste 2/3 or much more of the wood until you get very skilled.

A standing shop bandsaw can generally make cuts up to 6" thick, so if you can get access to one of those, you could start much closer to your desired finished state. You would want a new blade and slow careful feeding to keep the blade from wandering.

I do believe that in a case like mine with positive draft stone cold, and a properly sized bell, a 6" chimney is better than an 8" chimney. Mine leaves the base of the bell as 6" stovepipe, up 6', horizontal 5' and out the wall in insulated chimney pipe, and up another 9' to above the roof. I severely restrict the intake and it burns fiercely and completely to ash.

Just looked it up - capstans are vertical axis and windlasses are horizontal axis. Capstans only work with rope and depend on friction controlled by the user. Windlasses generally work with chain, and use a geared "gypsy wheel" to pull the chain. They can sometimes use rope; the article I read does not specify how.

Calculating the hydraulic diameter is probably beyond the knowledge of all but a few. A simple number is much easier for most people to understand, even if it is only partially accurate, as long as errors don't fall in a nonfunctional range.

I think it is stone masonry.

I think it could work if you just put in the divider up to the "possible divider" arrow... as long as there is enough flow space on both sides of it. You might need an adjustable restriction in the oven outlet to increase flow to the bench, as long as total flow is not restricted too much.

But maybe the completely unrestricted version will work best if the ceiling is flat as Peter describes.

You do not need to conduct the gas directly to the top of the second bell; it will find its way there naturally. It is important that the entrance to the second bell not point toward the exit, so as not to short-circuit the flow.