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Mike Pop

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since Dec 09, 2013
Eureka, NV
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Recent posts by Mike Pop

Satamax,

Thank you for the descriptive reply.  Very helpful.

I did install a fan about 3' above my flue after it exits the stove.  However, it's not enough to combat the extreme wind that we are having today.  Otherwise, it works well.  I'm just concerned that I'm sucking all the heat out the chimney.

So...I'll reroute the chimney to create better draft.  That problem is solved.  Will this get me higher temps inside the stove?

Thanks again!
3 years ago

Satamax Antone wrote:Mike, this can't work.



Without giving a reason why, your comment is not helpful.  This setup works fine if there isn't any wind.   I know I have to make modifications but would like constructive advice, not just "this won't work".

Thank you
3 years ago
Peter,

Thanks for the input.  My chimney is not insulated once it goes outside.  The highest point on the roof of my home is 45' and in order to save $$$, I've opted to have a shorter chimney.  In order to run the flue inside the building, that would entail going through the first floor ceiling joists, second floor ceiling joists (which was the original flat roof covered in 4" of plaster and tin) and then through the attic and roof rafters.  My first floor is 11' high, the second is 12' high and the attic another 5'.  It would cost a fortune in insulated pipe.  I think the best I can do is to extend the pipe through the second floor and exit horizontally as high as I can go on the second floor.   So this may solve my draft problem on windy days.  However, would this increase burn temperatures inside the RMH?

Does insulated pipe really make a difference?  I would think that uninsulated would help release more heat into the room?

I used to have a 10" stainless steel insulated chimney that went through the eaves.  It was for a diesel fired steam furnace in my basement.  I tapped into it for a 6" wood stove and it worked well most of the time.  However, strong winds would come down and affect the wood stove as well.  I've since removed that chimney and entire setup.

Pic of the chimney and building.  Yes, I know it's not all the way up to the roof.  Yes, I know it's near a window (second floor is vacant).  Yes, I know what building codes should be but I knew that I would be experimenting  and things may change.

Once again, I appreciate your input.

Mike
3 years ago
Hello All,

I built my RMH using  the Dragon Heater 6" Castle components and design.  I followed the build exactly to specs yet after several burns, I am extremely disappointed with it's operation.  I'm just not getting temperatures that were claimed by Dragon Heaters nor the draft, especially when it's windy outside.  I've spent a lot of money on this and so far, I've found it to be a 3,000 lb pile of crap in my home.  I really need to get this operating effectively and efficiently as I was planning on this being my only heat source.  Any help would be appreciated and please go easy on me, this is my second build and I was hoping to rely on a proven design.

My build:
6" burn chamber:  Dragon Heater shippable core lined with perlite and fire blanket, inside 13" x 18" clay flue pipes
1st bell:  18"x18" clay flue pipes lined with fire brick
2nd bell:  18"x18" clay flue pipes, no lining
3rd smaller bell for flue exhaust:  13"x13" clay flue pipe with 6" flue
6" steel flue pipe:  exits vertically 9', 15 degrees for 4' through the 16" thick brick walls in my home, 4' vertically outside

After a 4-6 hour burn at night (burning primarily douglas fir), here are my temps (Fahrenheit):
Top of burn chamber inside: 230
Top of 1st bell inside:  200
Outside of 2nd bell:  105
Flue:  135-145

In the morning, the unit is still giving off some heat but nothing that can be noticed.  Most of the heat is still in the burn chamber and temps are around 90.

On a windy day, I get a lot of back draft, flue temps won't get over 100 and I have to use a flue fan to create draft (even that doesn't prevent backdraft)

Modifications that I've done:
Added 1"-1.5" faux stone, a concrete product
Flue fan to increase draft but may be sucking all the heat out of the RMH
Damper to close off when the fire burns out
3 years ago

Satamax Antone wrote:The answer is, what do you expect from a 3 inch riser and 4 inch feed tube all metal stove?

I'd say zilch!

You say it's working properly, but to say this, have you ever built another rocket stove which worked?




No need to bash me. This is my first stove and I am learning. I would appreciate feedback that is helpful, not insulting.
6 years ago
I made upgrades to my stove:
1. Increased the insulation around the up pipe from 6" to 8".
2. Insulated the bottom of the tank, up to the burn chamber.
3. Added an ash pit and screen.

The results:
Stove gets hotter but not hot enough.

My hypothesis:
I think the steel tank is just too thick. The stove is working as it should but taking forever to heat up the tank. My solution may be to go to a thinner walled tank.

Overall, it doesn't burn a lot of wood, drafts nicely, and puts out very little exhaust. I have it vented through a window in my garage.
6 years ago
John,

Thanks for the tips. I will make those modifications. The feed and burn tubes are 4" and the insulated pipe is 3". Exhaust is 3". It's all I had on hand. All of the steel is 3/16" thick so I would imagine it does take longer to heat up.

Much appreciated!

Mike
6 years ago
Gary,

I've read differences of opinion on the insulated or uninsulated burn tubes. It's a good place to start but I'm hoping for an easier solution. The biggest hurdle is draft which I don't have a problem with. I'm thankful for that.
6 years ago
I built my first stove using a propane tank about 36" tall, 15" in diameter. I've got a 4" feed tube, 4" fire tube and 3" heat riser that is surrounded by a 6" pipe with Perlite in between. The top of the insulated pipe is about 1.5" from the top of the inside of the tank. I'm getting excellent draw and the fire is burning very well. However, after burning for three hours, it just doesn't seem to be throwing much heat. I've seen other stoves that get cherry red on the burn tube and heat up rather quickly. Also, I'm burning scrap lumber, mostly pine flooring and 2x4's that I've split into smaller pieces.

Any suggestions?
6 years ago