Kelby Taylor wrote:My opinion would be to by and large leave them alone. Trees that young are not yet going to be developing a permanent structure, that won't be til years 4 or 5(and that height). They look 2 or 3 years at most. I didn't start developing my pear trees until they were almost 1.5" caliper, probably 5 years old. Assuming you started with bare root trees, they look as healthy as they can in January, and decent growth. Fruit trees are a game a patience, don't expect big things in year one.
The first plum you have shown, I'd cut off the two side branches. And that is the only pruning I would do. They are far too low to be useful unless you plan on having a bush instead of a tree. Aside from that, stake those trees so they are straight. Too much leaning can cause problems down the road (or might not, but better safe than sorry).
As far as apples, you will likely need to spray everything except Liberty. Liberty is just about the only no-spray apple out there...Enterprise and Spartan are close 2nds but still benefit from some help.
Craig Dobbelyu wrote:Have you seen the rabbit wringer? It's a steel device that's made for very quickly killing rabbits. I don't have one but I can see from the videos on you tube that they are very effective. Personally, I have an iron fire poker that has a curled handle that works just like the wringer. First time every time. Quick and clean.
Farmer Stina wrote:A friend showed me this great youtube video for gutting and skinning a rabbit. I love how matter-of-fact the chef is about it all: http://youtu.be/IpwhOE74TMA
The way I was taught to slaughter rabbits was to hold them on the ground, place a heavy bar across the back of their necks, step on either end of the bar and then pull up on their back legs until you hear their neck crack. It seems to be quick and humane to me.
Leila Rich wrote:
I may have missed it, but there's no seriously dwarfing rootstocks or natural dwarfs by any chance?
Just checking really, since most peaches are on their own roots and apples, the prime candidates for super-dwarfing, are doing ok
Bill Ramsey wrote:Looking at the weather channel tells me 109°F on Friday so, yeah... mine practically quit eating when it gets like that here (south western Georgia). They just get so lethargic. The black oil sunflower seeds are like candy but I try to not over-do it. I always hear too much gives them the squirts but a few helps with lots of issues like litter size. Just off hand, I don't remember it ever being too rich for them.
Adam Klaus wrote:One other thing, though it isnt really relavent today since the trees are dormant, but it may be helpful in the future and to others-
Foliar feeding first and second year transplanted trees produces really good results for me. My sense is that the newly transplanted trees simply do not have enough vigorous roots with abundant root hairs to pull up enough nutrition for vigorous growth. So I have taken to foliar feeding trace minerals every 2-3 weeks, and also foliar feeding with a dilute complete fertilizer like liquid fish, raw milk, or compost tea in between trace mineral applications. My results have been much, much better and more consistent with this regimine.
David Livingston wrote:I wonder if your peaches had leaf curl?