Bill Erickson

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since Jan 25, 2014
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books chicken forest garden hugelkultur hunting wofati

Retired ariwing jarhead working a second career as an engineer in the semi-conductor world to be finally free.
Northwest Montana from Zone 3a to 4b (multiple properties)
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Recent posts by Bill Erickson

I'm still sorting out my work schedule for that time frame but I am definitely interested in coming down. Perhaps a dowsing demonstration or two for folks who are interested. That time of year might even be a good time for some spring wildcrafting and wild edibles gathering.

3 weeks ago
There is a lot of key differentiation between the GAFT and the HBC in these replies and also the basic objections that folks have to "something similar".

As a Kickstarter Superbacker, and Backer #1 for this Kickstarter - when it comes to the precis/executive summary/"Why we doing this" - answer the objections quickly with the differentiation. I'm saying that it isn't needed to state the objections, just to put the differentiation out to those implied objections.

You've also explained the scope of the project much better than the initial offering did, that is another crucial thing to get right out of the chute. The scope, the time investment and what tangible things folks can expect from future projects in this train. This isn't a travelogue, it is a teachalogue with different BUSINESS ideas being shared and taught - not looking for the Greatest American Farm. I already understood this from some of the side play I've observed, not to mention Josiah's involvement with getting the PDC/ATC material out.

The kid aspect is a great one in that learning/doing a business should make sense to a kid, so they can see themselves doing something besides being a cubicle dweller or a fast food drone.

If this one doesn't make it, I highly suggest coming back at it from a very different direction than currently.
1 month ago
Looks like all the feedback I was going to give has been given.

I agree that having another pledge level between the 1$ and 15$ level is a good idea to maximize giving - if that isn't in your plan, your reward levels still look awesome.

Apples to the feedback givers!!

I found a post over at Donkey that has your calculation in it.

My take, is that your G is likely at or below 1, it may be as high as 1.2. This takes your Q closer to an 8 or 9kw value.
8 months ago

Casie Becker wrote:Congratulations Deb, it's been obvious how hard you've been working.

The rest of you slackers are obviously skating by on your good looks.

Yes, yes I am. 

Dustin Krieger wrote:How can I jack that building up affordably? Mind you I have to haul lumber or anything 300 feet uphill from the street so some heavy things might be out

Can I make a ridge board from multiple 2 by 8 s here ? And can anyone help me build a material list? I have to get this delivered

The lumber list I would use is to count the number of my current ceiling rafters the double that for the roof directly over the cabin and add 4 more for the front and rear eaves.
Figure the length of your roof ridge, divide it by 8 (standard plywood/OSB sheet length), multiply that by two and round up to a whole number, even if it is only "0.1 feet" round it up. This gives you the sheeting for both sides of the roof and covers any oddities of length for your front and rear eaves.
The other alternative is to divide by 4 (standard plywood/OSB sheet width) and figure to cutoff the excess. This would leave you with some wood for shelving and your facia.
The metal would be the hurricane straps to secure the roof rafter runs to the current cabin ceiling deck, should be that same number as your current ceiling rafter times 2, maybe add a couple extras just in case you mangle some.
Enough fasteners, I prefer 5 pounds or so of 8p coated sinkers for the rafters (usually about 3-4 inches long), and another couple pounds of 4p coated sinkers (generally 1 1/2 to 2" long) to secure the roof decking. The 4p sinkers I nail in every 4 inches - it's a pain, but it is a roof and needs to be solidly attached. So figure the area of a piece of roof decking (24 feet or 288 inches) and divide by four and you have 72 nails per sheet. this would be a 2-4 pound box of nails. Since they come in 1 or 5 pounds, I would go with 5 to be safe.
Last is to figure for whatever type of roofing material you are going to use. I would stick with metal roofing myself, so grommeted roofing nails to go on the ridges of the material. I would also consider some 15# or 30# roofing felt to help with the seal of the roof deck and the roofing material.
When I am talking 8p or 4p for nail size I am talking about 4 or 8 penny nails.

As to jacking that thing up to redo those blocks, I would go with a high lift jack. I'd secure the building from sliding first - cables up hill to deep stakes or 6 inch or better trees, emptying the building out of as much heavy stuff as possible, and then giving it a very slow and cautious go. I would TAKE MY TIME. Lifting an unsecured building is a risky proposition. Jim's idea of staking them with rebar, filling with cement and capping with roofing felt is a very good one. As a temp measure, until you get setup to carefully lift a secured building, add some more blocks (properly oreinted) and shimming right along side of the current ones. You still need to take care of that situation before weather does that corner in, but you will be safer.

An option I'd ask you to consider is leveling and solidly tamping a flat landing site next to the current position, put a 4-6 layer of crush on it and then moving the structure over onto it. This can be done after the new roof and your support measures are taken, as it will take time. But it is a really good idea to have it secure on a level and solid foundation area rather than sitting on raw soil like it currently is, a significant rain event and you have a hell of a tobaggan ride down the hill ahead of you. If nothing else, support measures and securing cabling to stop any potential slide.
That sounds like it should work. The angle I would make perfect is the one where the two slopes of the roof meet at the peak. In fact, I would put a 18 or 20 foot ridge beam that the slopes tie into. This is so I could have a front and rear overhang to protect the exterior of the cabin as much as possible until it is sided in.

Maybe a wee bit shorter in the front what with that tree being there and all.

To set the position of the ridge beam make a board cradle by cutting two pieces of 2x6 that are the roof height plus a foot and screw it to the center point on the front and rear of the cabin. I call it a "cradle" because a notch deep enough to hold the ridge beam to depth and the top of the ridge beam sits at your calculated roof height. Makes it easy for one guy to measure, cut and hammer in the rafter runs.

To do it, I would just pull the metal roofing off and maybe lay another layer of plastic without any hole in it while I put the rafters in place. Because the "run" is so short, I wouldn't worry about any cross bracing with 2x4s and what not except for the ends as a way to close off the space with facia. This also gives you a long, skinny and dry place for some storage away from critters.

John C Daley wrote:I cannot imagine how to live with -30 deg C. Its madness in my mind.
How is it possible

Pretty easy actually, just have to dress properly.
8 months ago
That is a lot of time saved! Something for my "I Want" list.
8 months ago