Dustin Krieger wrote:How can I jack that building up affordably? Mind you I have to haul lumber or anything 300 feet uphill from the street so some heavy things might be out
Can I make a ridge board from multiple 2 by 8 s here ? And can anyone help me build a material list? I have to get this delivered
The lumber list I would use is to count the number of my current ceiling rafters the double that for the roof directly over the cabin and add 4 more for the front and rear eaves.
Figure the length of your roof ridge, divide it by 8 (standard plywood/OSB sheet length), multiply that by two and round up to a whole number, even if it is only "0.1 feet" round it up. This gives you the sheeting for both sides of the roof and covers any oddities of length for your front and rear eaves.
The other alternative is to divide by 4 (standard plywood/OSB sheet width) and figure to cutoff the excess. This would leave you with some wood for shelving and your facia.
The metal would be the hurricane straps to secure the roof rafter runs to the current cabin ceiling deck, should be that same number as your current ceiling rafter times 2, maybe add a couple extras just in case you mangle some.
Enough fasteners, I prefer 5 pounds or so of 8p coated sinkers for the rafters (usually about 3-4 inches long), and another couple pounds of 4p coated sinkers (generally 1 1/2 to 2" long) to secure the roof decking. The 4p sinkers I nail in every 4 inches - it's a pain, but it is a roof and needs to be solidly attached. So figure the area of a piece of roof decking (24 feet or 288 inches) and divide by four and you have 72 nails per sheet. this would be a 2-4 pound box of nails. Since they come in 1 or 5 pounds, I would go with 5 to be safe.
Last is to figure for whatever type of roofing material you are going to use. I would stick with metal roofing myself, so grommeted roofing nails to go on the ridges of the material. I would also consider some 15# or 30# roofing felt to help with the seal of the roof deck and the roofing material.
When I am talking 8p or 4p for nail size I am talking about 4 or 8 penny nails.
As to jacking that thing up to redo those blocks, I would go with a high lift jack. I'd secure the building from sliding first - cables up hill to deep stakes or 6 inch or better trees, emptying the building out of as much heavy stuff as possible, and then giving it a very slow and cautious go. I would TAKE MY TIME. Lifting an unsecured building is a risky proposition. Jim's idea of staking them with rebar, filling with cement and capping with roofing felt is a very good one. As a temp measure, until you get setup to carefully lift a secured building, add some more blocks (properly oreinted) and shimming right along side of the current ones. You still need to take care of that situation before weather does that corner in, but you will be safer.
An option I'd ask you to consider is leveling and solidly tamping a flat landing site next to the current position, put a 4-6 layer of crush on it and then moving the structure over onto it. This can be done after the new roof and your support measures are taken, as it will take time. But it is a really good idea to have it secure on a level and solid foundation area rather than sitting on raw soil like it currently is, a significant rain event and you have a hell of a tobaggan ride down the hill ahead of you. If nothing else, support measures and securing cabling to stop any potential slide.