Daniel Ray

pollinator
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since Feb 04, 2014
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food preservation forest garden hugelkultur
Stevensville, Montana; Zone 4b
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Recent posts by Daniel Ray

Wow, lots of info in this awesome thread. Dale, sounds like an awesome project awaits you. Towards the top of the thread was an earthbag suggestion. I think this would fit the location better than cob especially since you mentioned the lack of suitable fiber. You wouldn't really need to worry about clay and sand consistency as much either which is good, but in my experience earthbag is more labor intensive than cob. On the plus side, I think earthbag might hold better against the weather situation--typhoons.

for weatherproof plaster I think fermenting some clay plaster with manure would work best. It is free and can be followed up with oil if it can be found.
1 day ago
I'm always switching the mobile view to desktop view on my phone because the general forums page is not available. You have to select a forum topic, but I like perusing the random assortment of threads people are posting on. If the mobile view could include the "most recent" forums that would be great.
If it were me I would do single wall chimney all the way to the ceiling, use a chimney thimble through the ceiling, then single wall to the roof, a support box and switch to double wall class A chimney. They come in 2, 3 or 5 ft lengths I believe. A five foot piece is probably $300. There is no reason you need insulated chimney in the attic really.
2 days ago
Nice work, better be safe than sorry on the support since it will be very heavy.

1) I would insulate under the mass too as the temps stay pretty high and you probably want your heat moving up and not down.

2) You cannot use stovepipe for the riser, it will burn out.

3) you can use metal on the outside of the riser where the temperature will be cooler--people commonly used small sized oil drums--33gallon i think

4) stove pipe for the riser or for the horizontal run? They will hold up in the mass but not in the riser--"metal is doomed"

5) longer is more efficient, but it really depends on how much length you already have, what is the length with 2 runs vs 3 runs--including 90degree elbows at 5' each?
1 week ago
Peter, I would love to write that up for the site. Where should I send it when I've put it all together with the videos and photos? Cheers.
1 week ago
Update on this stove. I couldn't be happier with its performance. I let it sit for over a week and dI'd a cold start with no problems whatsoever. After three consecutive burns over 3 days my house is 75f without sealed doors and 30f weather. The bench was still 68f after leaving overnight.

Barrel top is hovering mid burn about 600f with the top of the exhaust pipe at 120f. Not sure what the exhaust midstream is as I don't have an accurate way to read it. Full burns last about an hour with lingering coals for another half hour.

Thanks again to Peter for such an excellent design and all of those here that gave their advice along the way. Just awesome work!!!
1 week ago
Thanks Peter, that is sage advice. My first rocket could have benefited from reading this thread.
1 week ago
Single wall duct is okay for the bench. It is recommended that you use black stove pipe for the beginning of the run since this is the hottest part of the exhaust system. Switch to single wall black stove pipe at the beginning of the vertical rise of indoor chimney. When it hits the roof you can use a chimney support box and transition to Class A chimney pipe.

Also, your bench run is quite long at 40+ feet I think from your drawings. The bends are worth 5' of pipe. I think with the amount of stack you have you will be fine, but you might want a priming port at the base of your vertical exhaust for cold starts. You also have in your diagram a 2" gap between heat riser and barrel--you may be better off increasing this to around 3" to make sure the gases have adequate room to move. I'm no expert but have read a lot of peoples issues posted here and they always seem resolved when they increase the barrel height a bit. Anyone else having an opinion on the top gap advice would be appreciated for myself and others.

1 week ago
I didn't read the cross post--is there a reason you are not using straw? Cracking usually means too much clay/not enough straw and the photo looks to me like that is the issue. Don't worry about straw burning, it won't burn unless it is directly in the path of exhaust and will just burn out harmlessly.  How wet is your mix. sometimes too much water can lead to cracking as well, especially if drying too quickly.
3 weeks ago