Joshua Parke

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since May 06, 2014
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Northern New Mexico, Latitude:35 degrees N, Elevation:6000'
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Recent posts by Joshua Parke

If you can take note of the types of shrubs and trees in your area that thrive without any human interaction...they could make good candidates.  You may likely find some/most that aren't legumes, but they are hardy and adapted to your climate which can help you grow your forest.  Often the most hardiest ones will be labeled as invasive.  And some of them will be very quick growing, especially if you give them a little care and help them along.  I wouldn't know of any species to look for in your area, but if you keep your eyes open for those trees and bushes thriving on utter neglect, which nature has generally planted, I'm sure you'll find a few good ones to use.  And even though they may not be legumes and nitrogen fixing, they will still drop tons of mulch for you and you can over plant them and do a bunch of chopping and dropping while you nurse up the long term trees and bushes you intend to keep.
1 week ago
I was wondering if maybe the mice are going for the seedlings for not only food but hydration as well.  Maybe some water left out for them would keep them off the seedlings???  I had a cottontail and a few birds coming into my greenhouse earlier this year, and I left a bowl of water for them so they wouldn't eat my plants looking for hydration.  I also had a cover crop and the cottontail went ahead and trimmed it all for me and converted it into manure as my young plants grew up through/with the cover crops.  I've seen a few cherry tomatoes here and there that the mice were getting, but not enough for concern.

Another thing I was thinking...maybe grow them a tray of microgreens? 

It's kinda hard to want to do those things though because they'll keep coming back and soon you'll have many more mice.  But just some thoughts I had.
1 week ago
I emailed and called Esmaeil Fallahi this morning.  He said his email is down, but while chatting with him he recalled the table grape that was mentioned.  This non-irrigated variety was next to a lane of other grapes that were being irrigated, so there was seepage that occured from the irrigated variety into this one.  He also mentioned that the variety had very small grapes on it, maybe because of the minimal water.  After the Idaho Fruit Field Day he is quite busy, so he mentioned that I could call him back in a month and we could talk longer to get more info.  Also he mentioned that there are quite a few independent papers written about what he is doing, and with enough time in the search engines we may be able to find more specific info on all the different varieties of fruit that he is working with. :-)
2 weeks ago
I prefer to use multiple herbs in a formula instead of just a few.  It seems to have a greater effect this way, this is something I've also learned from other herbalists.

Here's a link to some formulas for specific areas of the body to help you get started.  Herbal Formulas  Go down to my post within the link and you'll find a couple of files with those formulas.

Lately I've not even bothered with making tinctures, I've simply been grinding up the herbs and putting them in capsules.  I am liking it far more than a tincture, it seems to be more effective as well.
2 weeks ago
Welcome.  I like horses too.  I'm happy to see another horse person on here. :-)  I stayed up late last night because I received a Road To The Horse DVD set yesterday.......and I just had to watch some of it even though my eyes were getting foggy.  LOL

Have you seen the Rockley Farm blog?  A few years or so ago, after having spent years of doing barefoot trimming on my own horses, I found Rockley Farm.  Nic Barker has two excellent books, they can be found on amazon. ;-)

Are you doing a track system, paddock paradise, on your property?
I imagine I can look this up, but I was wondering if you know the name of the table grape from Iran that has used no irrigation....I need me some of those. ;-)
2 weeks ago
There is a man named Dr. Morse who has been teaching people for over 40 years how to detox all manner of ailments from their bodies.  He can be found on youtube.

I recall quite a few videos and testimonials of people who used fasting to get rid of Lymes.  I seem to recall that it was dry fasting that had the most impact.  Dry fasting is pretty much at the apex of detoxing the body.  It would be unwise to jump straight into dry fasting.  It would be much wiser to eat cleaner, and perhaps use smoothies, then juice feast, then dry fast.  Notice I said juice feast, as in drink a lot of juice, up to a gallon or more per day.  I prefer this over fasting because you are literally flooding your body with, "goodness", that cleanses and heals, while still being able to function.  John Rose on youtube talks quite a bit about juice feasting, he has some good videos on the topic.
2 weeks ago
I've still yet to do enough research on this specifically but I was researching nootropic and adaptogen herbs a few weeks back and I came across information saying that bindweed is in the family of an herb which is a well known nootropic commonly used in India.

I'll just post a quick search from google to help you get started if you want to do the research.  Shankhpushpi
There is also this one, which is in the same Convolvulaceae family.  Evolvulus alsinoides herb nootropic

I think it's the flower that is used, but I still don't know much about it, as it seems to be quite uncommon to the west still as of yet, and I have lots of reading to do.

Problem into a Solution. ;-)
Does anyone have some insight into the difference it makes in having a swale mound that's been raked down smooth compared to one that's been left rough on a larger swale?  I'm currently grading the overflow smooth and consistent.

I've been contemplating if I should even bother smoothing out the non-overflow mound of the swale though.  The mound is fairly large, probably between 4-5' tall.  I'm not able to come to any conclusion as to why it would be better than leaving it rough, other than it looking cleaner.  If I leave it rough there are more, "pockets", and such along the top of the mound that will allow seed, and organic matter to settle into, which I can only see as a benefit to helping get trees started, especially starting them by seed in place.  The mound is a little steeper on the downhill side which may make it a little more difficult for plants to get established on that part?  But I don't know if that's going to make a big enough difference long term.

Smoothing out the mound would also make it wider by around maybe 10'.  I would prefer to keep the mound narrower over making it wider.  And I would have to adjust the overflow a little bit.  The overflow is currently set at 2' lower than the mound and I would prefer to keep it around that.

I've kept a few smaller swales rough as well as a large mound in a catchment pond/swale for collecting silt, and I haven't seen a big difference compared to the ones I've smoothed out.  I haven't had a lot of monsoon events which I was concerned about causing issues on the steeper downhill sides of those mounds, though there have been a few monsoon rains fall on them last year and I don't see anything at this point to show it being a cause for concern.  But they're all fairly new within the last year so I don't have any long term perspective on it.

Anyone have experience or knowledge on this?  I haven't come across anything throughout the years saying one way or another being better.  I'm trying to determine if I should put in a little more effort and smooth out the mound or just leave it rough.
1 month ago
I purchased a Topcon RL-H4C rotary laser level a few years back for just under $700, I also needed to purchase a tripod to mount it to and a telescoping rod for the receiver, which was a little less than $100 for the two.  There is no GPS capability, but that's not something I knew existed, so I have no suggestions for them or experience with them either.  I like to print maps and draw my layouts with color pencils instead of using the computer, but GPS capability may possibly be easier.  I've seen kits for the different rotary lasers that includes all you need for around $500 and less, but there's something to be said about making a purchase once for a quality item.

I settled on the model I have because of it's quality, and it's performance.  The battery's last a long time, I just looked it up and it says they last 100 hours, it has a 2600' range, and a 5 year warranty.  I also purchased some 10000mah nimh batteries with a charger, I haven't kept track of how long the charge lasts with the larger batteries, but in almost three years of using it I've only charged the batteries once, about a month ago, and the same with the receiver batteries....though I don't use it every single day, or even every week, or month.  But when I do use it, I have it on all day.  I've been quite happy with it.  It makes it very easy to get work done.  The bunyip in very dense trees would maybe be a little easier with a very long tube, but I haven't needed to use it in such an area so I can't really say.

I don't know why the equipment you were looking at was so expensive, maybe because of the GPS??  But even if you needed to have a rotary level shipped from a different country I can't imagine it costing that much more....though I really don't know.  The model I have can be found on a lot of websites, it's fairly popular.  I purchased mine from amazon.

Maybe you can rent the gear if you don't need to own it?  Though if you have a large piece of ground you may need to make multiple rentals over time which may add up to the same cost as owning it?

I don't have any clever suggestions, I just wanted to give my opinion/experience.
1 month ago