Bryant RedHawk

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since May 15, 2014
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Biography
Part Nakota, part Irish. The Nakota took over long ago but still lives in two worlds, the European world and the first people's world. He lives on a small (15 + acres) piece of mother earth deep in the woods. Was trained in the cooper's arts as a child, since the family owned a cooperage. He has been a carpenter, and timber wright but love all aspects of farming.He holds a BS in Chemistry and Biology and a MS in Horticulture. Worked for the USDA for 16 years. Then PHD in Microbiology defended. Redhawk and his wife Wolf are setting up to be fully self sustaining, growing all their own foods and collecting rain water. "Soon we will be self sustaining and closer to being off the grid" he said when asked about future plans. They continue their own research both in Agriculture and soils with the hope to make the world more like it used to be, before mankind began screwing up the Earth Mother. This is the only way humankind will survive, we must fix what we have broken.
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Arkansas - Zone 7B/8A stoney, sandy loam soil pH 6.5
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Recent posts by Bryant RedHawk

Hau, Kay Swartz,
To answer your questions:

1. In a dry climate, you might need to cut chop and drop into smaller chunks to aid decomposition. This will also act like a mulch.

2. Corn stalks work best when cut into short lengths and added to a compost heap. Spent coffee grounds and spent tea leaves are ways to add nitrogen into the center of a heap to start up the heating.

There are several Australian permaculture groups that have sites online. As an example; AustralianPermaculture.com is one of them.

Hope this helps you on your journey.

Redhawk
6 hours ago

Jesse Glessner wrote:

I've read a few of your articles here in "permies" but just never got around to doing much of anything other than just a couple of items. I did insert some purchased charcoal into my "raised beds" (concrete blocks) and haven't noticed any extra growth. I also built four compost piles and haven't spread that out either. And I did add some antennas on 10 PVC pipe and down through my garden beds only at about 5-6" deep. In a couple of places those did seem to work to benefit some of the plants.

SO, what would be best for distributing my compost out onto the garden? Just mix up the 4-5 year old stuff with whatever sifts through my fork and maybe put a shovel full or two around my fruit trees and the rest at maybe three foot intervals down through the garden beds. Would a half-shovel full of compost at that distance be enough to have the benefits of that addition spread through my 15 ft long beds by Summer time? OR will it take years to spread out to the full bed length and width?

The past 3 years it just seems that the only things that grew well in my garden were Tomato plants and Elderberry bushes. This year even the tomatoes seemed not to do so well, but I did get those out late!



The charcoal should be mixed into a working compost heap for a few weeks to "charge" the char with micro organisms before incorporating into the soil.

I'm not sure what you mean by "antennas". If you weren't adding a tea, all you did was make air holes.

If you're sifting compost to use as a mulch layer you're perhaps doing extra, unnecessary work. Munches need to be a minimum of 1 inch deep to be of any use when it comes to moisture retention.

You might need to use a fork to lift the soil to open it up from compaction. The more micobiota you add to growing areas, the better they will produce.

Hope that helps you. Good luck in your gardening journey.
Redhawk
1 day ago

Joboy Farmer wrote:I have loved seeing how rich people can manage to get their soil and the fatness of their earth worms!
Unfortunately I have got as far as the thriving salad and vegetables when suddenly the mole tunnels under and pushes out and knocks over many young and developing plants!
I would love to be able to share the same area but we are reaching a point of needing a solution- help change the attractiveness of my soil.



The moles are coming for earthworms. Try a perimeter dousing of ammonia, that worked for me.
Redhawk
6 months ago

Tom Walt wrote:Wood mulch up here brings out the snakes which my wife is deathly afraid of. ( She spent 3 weeks in the house the last time she saw one.)
We just do a deep root watering once a week.



I have areas where I use wood chips and areas where I use compost for mulch. The compose areas are where I don't want to run into snakes. That might work for you too.

Redhawk

PS, I have; copperhead, watermoccasin, eastern diamondback, speckled king, blue racer, and gopher snakes on my land.
AC, the thicker you can mulch (up to 40 cm) the better the soil beneath will; hold water, increase in micro biome, supress new undesirable plants(weeds), aid in a fungal network which will provide highways for bacteria and chemical messages to travel to answer the call from your crop plants.
Love that you are following the right paths to great growing !

Redhawk

Cayo Seraphim wrote:

Bryant RedHawk wrote:

Electric currents do nothing for snake bite treatment except that they can cause wider spreading of the venom which is the opposite of what you want.



Redhawk, Is that based on your personal experience trying it out, or based on a review of the scientific literature.

“We previously reported that a short exposure of Crotalus atrox venom to direct electric current (dc) from a low-voltage generator, in solution, causes consistent and irreversible inactivation of venom phospholipase A(2) and metalloproteases. Here we report by in vivo assay on chicken embryos at stage 18 of development according to Hamburger and Hamilton that the hemorrhagic activity of C. atrox venom is lost after exposure to dc (from low voltage). Venom was exposed to dc ranging between 0 and 1 mA. dc values above 0.7 mA abolished hemorrhage”



My conclusion is based on studies at UCD, however those studies were not with very low voltage and they used AC current. Also the tests were done on pacific rattle snake venom only.
Good catch! And thank you for more information that is more current. I'm now wondering if there are studies with DC low voltage or micro voltage out there.
Redhawk
7 months ago

Coydon Wallham wrote:Early in the thread someone asked about the two types of grounds, organic and conventional. I'm curious about another vector, hot brewed and cold brewed. Not a chemistry major here, but I recall hearing the hot water extracts more tanins (and perhaps phenols?). Do the grounds produced by these two methods vary in how they work for composting or top dressing?



Cold brewing leaves more tannic acid as well as other compounds that are removed in hot brewing. Spent coffee grounds from either brewing method can be used for; soil additions, composting, worm bedding, etc.
Redhawk
7 months ago
Yes, that is a great idea for the sod.

Redhawk
7 months ago
Hau Suzette, you have a great methodology going there. Kudos  kola.
7 months ago
If you leave any grass at all, it will always make a quick comeback. If you kill the entire square footage where you want your garden you are less likely to be continually fighting grass. I prefer to use 6 inches of wood chips for my paths, that way I'm always building the soil in the gardens.

I have consulted far to many folks who thought they could short cut my recommendations. Then they call me back because their short cuts either didn't work or the short cuts actually made the situation worse.

I'm always happy to share my knowledge, helping people achieve their growing goals is one of my passions.

Redhawk (you can always purple mooseage, I answer as fast as is possible)
7 months ago