Bryant RedHawk

garden master
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since May 15, 2014
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Part Nakota, part Irish. The Nakota took over long ago but still lives in two worlds, the European world and the first people's world. He lives on a small (15 + acres) piece of mother earth deep in the woods. Was trained in the cooper's arts as a child, since the family owned a cooperage. He has been a carpenter, and timber wright but love all aspects of farming.He holds a BS in Chemistry and Biology and a MS in Horticulture. Worked for the USDA for 16 years. Currently working on his PHD in Microbiology, the thesis is plant communication through the micro-biosphere network. Redhawk and his wife Wolf are setting up to be fully self sustaining, growing all their own foods and collecting rain water. "Soon we will be self sustaining and closer to being off the grid" he said when asked about future plans. They continue their own research both in Agriculture and soils with the hope to make the world more like it used to be, before mankind began screwing up the Earth Mother. This is the only way humankind will survive, we must fix what we have broken.
Vilonia, Arkansas - Zone 7B/8A stoney, sandy loam soil pH 6.5
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Recent posts by Bryant RedHawk

During any fermentation of vegetative matter that has not been cooked there will be a number of different microorganisms thriving, including ciliates, the one type of microorganism we don't want in our soil since they tend to be voracious good bacteria and fungi consumers.
Many who tout the Bokashi method will say that what they use in the soil is anaerobic but they have not realized that the act of pouring the Bokashi onto the soil is an act of aeration, the O2 contacts the Bokashi and is adsorbed by the organisms and decayed organic matter.

Lacto bacillus is so easy to acquire (it is in everything dairy) that the only reason to make a purchase is probably lack of knowledge or expediency.

Adding fermented Bokashi to soil will force oxygenation by it being adsorbed on contact, the problem I have with direct addition is that this leaves all the undesirable organisms alive for the moment, this can create a loss of good organisms prior to the undesirables dying off from the O2 environment.

Bokashi liquid is great stuff, you can use it several different ways, foliar spray, soil spray or simply use it in place of watering, it does quite well at adding organisms to a working compost heap too.

Most of the ciliates do die in the presence of oxygen, and the good bacteria, amoeba, nematodes and others along with fungi thrive only in the presence of oxygen.
This is good for you to know if you plan on using Bokaski or KNF type methods, oxygen is needed by plant roots and all the supporting microorganisms, there isn't any situation where plants grow in an absence of oxygen.
Even in stagnant, oxygen depleted swamp the plants that grow there have adjusted to taking more O2 from the air, that is the function of Cypress Knees, they suck up O2 and provide it to the roots. Cypress even harbors the microorganisms it needs in the network of knees, providing them with the necessary O2.

4 hours ago
Air pruning requires, as Philipp mentioned, the roots to grow in a more natural (spreading instead of circling) way, this leads then to grow through the container for the growing soil and then the tips dry out and die.

While it is a novel method of keeping roots shortened and thus the plant smaller, you still need to come along and snip off the dead, exposed ends.
What it does is a type of Bonsai.
Manuka honey is so expensive because it has to be certified as coming only from the Manuka bush, you can find it on amazon for far less than the prices you posted though.
6 hours ago

Even a warrior will tell you that fear is normal, controlling it keeps you alive. 

A person who traipses into the earth mother's domain who isn't prepared for just about anything, will have difficulty surviving if things don't go as planned.
That is why there are shows like Dual Survival on the air, every year people go out unprepared and some of them die.
If you go into the hills around Los Angeles and aren't aware of your surroundings, you just might see your first and last cougar, several folks have been attacked on the running/ biking trails there.

One doesn't need to be afraid as much as they need to know the risks involved then they need to make sure they know what to do IF something unexpected occurs.
That isn't fearul, my thought of being fearful is when you don't step out the front door because you don't know what is out there.

22 hours ago

denise ra wrote:Anne, Even if i was comfortable with hiding from feral pigs, I would still feel obliged to kill them. The population is estimated at over 1 million in Oklahoma and they cost farmers lotsa moola in damages.

In Arkansas feral hogs are legal to shoot in any other hunting season, you are encouraged to let them lay because of the danger of some of the diseases they can carry, but many people do process them.
Even if you are a competent shooter, waiting till a hog is at ten feet or closer is asking for trouble, the snub nose pistol is best left in a gun safe since it is designed only for very close encounters (7 yards max.)
For hogs you want all the power you can handle (.45, .44, .454Cassul, etc.) are the best rounds.
1 day ago
I cut the vines and leave the sweets in the soil for at least a week.
We grow ours in "Totes" so they are easy to harvest (and it keeps voles from feasting on our sweet potatoes).
Once the harvest has been sitting for the two weeks, we dump the totes and separate the sweets, we have a space between one of our dog's houses roof (pallet dog house) for curing the sweet potatoes, it's out of direct sun but has plenty of air flow.
We cure them for three weeks this way then move them to boxes for storing over winter. We usually have enough to last until the next harvest.
Ginger is one of those "easy to grow" plants, if you don't have a green house and live in the deep south, you will have problems unless you create a humus and sand "soil" for the root to establish in.

The few people I know here, in Arkansas, that are successful in growing these roots have created mini, take down, green houses so they can start the roots growing then remove the green house.
They did this because it was the only way they could get the roots to sprout and grow the first shoots. Our heat and humidity are just too much for the plants to start well apparently.
I've not tried to grow these plants as yet, but do plan to build an area for growing Ginger and Turmeric over this winter.
My plan is to use giant cloches to get them started around May since that is when our weather is warm enough for outside sprouting of the tubers.

The soil profile I plan to use will be in the 8 to 10 percent humus range with a high sand content and for mineralization I'll be using sea-90 at 25 grams per root.
I will have to bury 1/4" hardware cloth 1 foot deep all around the bed so moles and voles can't get to the tubers.
1 day ago
Lion's mane will grow in: bagged wood chip substrate, logs, totem stacked stumps and in a single stump. They will grow in almost all hardwoods but like oak best. I have some in hickory that are doing nicely.
3 days ago
Rabbits will eat the equivalent of 5 square feet of dense grass per day at the minimum, so the math would be 5 x # rabbits = x sq. ft. per rabbit for fresh food.

For winter feeding of hay you would need to multiply the above figure by the number of days of feed needed.
The best hay is usually a Bermuda hay, it has approx. 18 - 22 % protein content for first cut, dried hay.

You could add red, crimson, white (Dutch) and or yellow (sweet) clover(s) to a pasture you wanted to use for hay making for those two species of animals.

4 days ago
I agree with Mick on the subject of animal attack survival tactics, be aware, if you are aware of your surroundings not much will be able to sneak up on you (mountain lion being the one that can and will).
I never go out (My farm has lots of woods and then there are more woods surrounding our land) without a pistol, long guns are great but harder to get aimed quickly when an animal charges.
Even a shot gun will be slower to get aimed than a drawn pistol if you aren't in clearing type conditions.
Calibers of the pistol should be either .44 mag. or .45, a 9mm is  marginal unless the carrier is well trained on where to shoot the animal.
The sidearm or shotgun are weapons of last resort, most critters, including the mountain lion, will move away if given the opportunity, this is providing they aren't already hunting you.

Those are the only things I can add to Mick's post on this subject.

I personally carry a U.S. Navy Seal side arm (P228, 9mm with 13 rounds per magazine) this is the sidearm I conceal carry as well (it's always worn), but if I am going off my property I carry the 9mm and a .44 mag. S&W model 29, 6.5 inch barrel with a speed loader.
4 days ago