Rachel McCarty wrote:Hi laurel,
Thanks for your thoughts and trouble shooting.
My fence tester only reads up to 8k and I only ever see it at about 4k, sometimes 6k. But that seems to be hot enough, when the goats respect it.
I am moving their fence about every week and a half, when they've eaten things down. I'm trying to keep it in mostly grassy areas because they will kill any small trees around. These aren't planted trees, but still I don't think they should be killed. We have a lot of wild persimmon here and in the spring the bark was soft so they stripped them bare. Same with the junipers , which are not such a concern here.
My main issue is the fence charger from Premier 1. It's the Intellishock 60. It's never been very reliable, even though it's less than a year old. It won't hold a charge more than a few days if I leave it on at night, so I've been turning it off at night and hence a big problem when the goats figured this out. Probably I should invest in a second charger, but I'm not really feeling this system of goat fencing is a very good one no matter how much money is thrown at it.
Plus, I had that same charger on my chicken fence the other day and the tester read 6k on the fence but there was zero shock when I touched it. The company said it's because the ground is dry. So here's another potential pitfall of the moveable fence system.
In the old days my goats would stay in the fence no matter what, but they've since decided it's worth checking the shock to see if they can get out.
If I had more resources to invest in creating strong fencing here I would do it. Moveable paddocks sounds like a smart system. I'm trying to make what I have work without a lot of extra cost and having trouble finding the solutions that would allow me to keep the goats. Sure wish I could see it.
Cletus Hatfield wrote:I don't know what your comment was or the context but the notion that herbicides warrant scientific research is absolutely spurious insofar as the theory of evolution is accepted. Therefore, canceling discussions of herbicides except to totally disparage them seems like the right thing to do to avoid distractions. A better way forward is to instead focus on genuinely productive things. That's what Aristotle would do.
Stacy Witscher wrote:I think that depends on where you live and the fertility. Without inputs, our nature growth of annuals is about 4 inches. This year due to a wet, cold spring, it has increased to 6 inches in areas without added fertility. I plan on getting goats to eat the perennial bushes and small trees, not annual grasses and forbs,
Joshua Frank wrote:@Laurel: Can you just leave them in the forest at night, or do you have to bring them back to a secure barn at the end of every day? I would love to do this, but I can't see how to keep them from predation without a ton of work of this kind.
elle sagenev wrote:
Kenneth Elwell wrote:I look at your photos, and I'm thinking "I AM NOT A ROBOT, click all the photos that contain a litterbox." and I'm clicking pretty much all of them. LOL.
I'm guessing you mean the new soil/compost/rock edged beds, not the shredded paper/mulch/flower beds, right? And that it's a "problem" since these beds are for food?
A temporary cover of bird netting, or wire fence, just an inch or two up, would make it weird to walk on or not quite possible to "do their business as usual". We had a farm cat that liked the freshly prepared beds too, but we're a flower farm, so there.
Nothing wrong with those flower beds, by the way, you've got room for growth or more new plants...
I have the same wood shavings around every fruit tree and they are just litter boxes. It's not a big problem though because I'm not digging in them. So yeah, it's the food beds that are a problem for me. Darn cats. I suppose I could chicken wire over the top.