Matu Collins wrote:A proper wwoof host would not treat helpers this way!
I am a wwoof-usa farm and I accept only a tiny fraction of the wwoofers that send inquiries. The economics of farm help is hard to balance in everyone's favor.
Don't give up! practical experience is out there, I agree with the above advice to travel farther.
alex Keenan wrote:From some research and testing over a decade ago, if you added 20% expanded materials like perlite, expanded shale, etc. to the subsoil and topsoil you should not have issues with soil compaction.
Your soils has macro pores, meso pores, and micro pores. Clay has lots of surface area but only micro pore space. Sand has lots of macro pores but does not hold water. It is the meso pores that will hold free water the plants can use. I like organic material with all the life in it to build porespace. However, you tend to find that in nature organic material decreases as depth increases form leaf litter layer down to subsoil. If you want good deep roots in clay consider double digging and amending with porous non-organic material in the subsoil and with organic and non-organic material in the top soil.
This will badly disrupt the soil but it is also a one time event. With this start you should be able to cover crop and/or mulch from that point forward.
Leila Rich wrote:
Ricky Riccardo wrote: a few gooseberry plants that are trying to survive their whitefly attack.
I was about to post something about how enormous and thorny European gooseberries are,
then realised you might well have Cape gooseberries?
If they are Cape gooseberries, unless you're crazy about them I'd consider only keeping the best-looking plant.
They're wildly productive, grow really big and are really 'gangly', flopping all over the garden.
A great thing about them is they're happy in the shade.
I've had zero experience with whitefly,
but I always assume those kind of attacks are because the plant's stressed or something in the environment's out of balance.
Tim Malacarne wrote:Welcome! I agree with the advice above to try some sweet potatoes. They are good for you and easy to grow. They'd like loose soil, so as to easily form the fruit. I have had good luck using them to shade other, less heat tolerant plants, such as rhubarb. You can train sweet potato vines to grow most anyplace you provide a support. Good luck! Best, TM
Ce Rice wrote:As I understand your efforts, you are in the learning phase. Just keep doing what you are doing, practicing on foods that are produced/available in your area. Those are the best ones to start with.
Don't be afraid to fail. Try any and all you have space for. Try and try again. It is such a fun experience gardening for the first time.
One possible suggestion: sweet potatoes
Would take some effort, but plant them on the perimeter of the garden to help prevent things blowing into the pool. The vines will grow, so just keep moving them, training them back towards the edge. Layer and overlap them as needed. Also, look for their root nodes along the vines and cover those nodes with a handful or three of soil. More sweet potatoes can grow from those nodes. Sweet potatoes are not potatoes. Or not white potatoes. Not cousins. So they grow a little different.
Or, with that mention of Herbs, instead of sweet potato on the perimeter/edge, you could grow Creeping Thyme. It is a great herb, and it fills that role of securing the edge, so weeds don't grow in the edge and stuff doesn't blow off/out of the garden space. And just step on/cut off the thyme as it grows over your stone too much. It doesn't every hurt to be walked on, plus, lets off a beautiful light smell when you do walk on it.