Wyatt Barnes

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since Nov 04, 2014
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Recent posts by Wyatt Barnes

I have wondered about a grid of pipes just under the driveway surface to carry water from a submerged tank pushed by a small sump pump. The tank would need to be below frost and the pipes would have to be self draining. Ground temps are 45 to 50 F so circulating that temp under the driveway would thaw snow...eventually. What I don't know is how big the tank would need to be to absorb that much cold without freezing and have enough surface area to shed it before the next use. Or maybe like a ground source heat pump there would need to be deep buried pipes to spread the cold out.
2 months ago
Insulating your arch would save fuel, but for speed you either need to increase pan area or increase burn temps. Without a lot of work or money pan size area is the way to go, longer arch, more pans and only have the fire at the front with a limited amount of depth below the back pans so the smoke/heat has to rise and contact the pan surface instead of sneaking by to the chimney. I would avoid a water heater for boiling for toxicity sake. Saving time however can mean just not being there when it is boiling. On my setup I use deep pans and a large firebox. I am rarely near my boil more than 15 minutes per loading. I fill my pans, fill my firebox and leave to repeat either hours later or the next day. This does not give me a good gallons per hour boiling rate overall but my rate for boiling per hour I am there is decent.  My ideal is at least two fires per day, the first heats everything up and removes some liquid, the second while everything is hot removes much more in the pans overall. My rig is remote to my house so this works best if I am doing some other chores nearby like cutting firewood. Fire, cut wood for a couple of hours, repeat. On a day where I can fire four times I boil off quite a bit and only spend about an hour doing it. My pans are homemade stainless steel, about 8 inches deep and the stove has a firebox that will hold a small wheelbarrow of wood.
1 year ago
Excellent news thanks for sharing. I too am a firm believer in making authorities quote the details for a decision, very often they have misinterpreted or misapplied a rule and cannot justify their initial reaction with facts. At other times they misspeak and should be saying " we don't want you to do this " instead of " you are not allowed to do this."
1 year ago
Sorry but I didn't understand the term " leftover roast ", I am not sure I have ever heard that said.
1 year ago
I use to climb hydro poles, which are easier to climb than trees, and I have pruned from the ground and from a ladder and my advice is use a long ladder tied off at shoulder height and then at the top first time up if you have to prune. Having been around dying and iffy trees though my preference is to drop the whole thing and even then many safety precautions are needed. Any chance you could trade off a personal skill for an foresters time? Technically you don't even need a forester, just a feller, and no that is not a typo.
1 year ago
I have never skinned a gopher but I did wonder if there was a market for their hide as well as consuming the meat and using the rest for compost. I expect they are similar to a weasel, mink, muskrat or other small fur bearer. My older friend who has done a lot of trapping/skinning use to refer to muskrats as the easiest money in the bush based on numbers and time required to process an animals fur for sale. I expect gophers would be in that category, fairly easy and not very time consuming. The Farm Show magazine had an article years ago about the developer of a gopher trap, easy to set and cheap to make. He removed 6000, yes that is a 6 with three zeroes, gophers from a 30ish acre field after they ruined a years crop. Most say that with a large infestation if you set dozens of traps you will hear the first ones triggering before the last are set. That would be good if you wanted to both eat the animal and harvest the hide.
1 year ago
All Jenkins system users can state categorically that we do not discharge sewage onto our property. We add compostables to our compost pile. Not even close to the same thing.
1 year ago
My area was the health department but they gave it over to the municipal building department. We got them to lower our minimum square footage bylaw to 500, I think it should be abolished altogether but this is a start, I think it is probably past time to prod them about alternative sanitation. Any jurisdiction that says an outhouse is ok should be happy to explore composting alternatives.
1 year ago
Two suggestions, one from Joe and the other from me. If your bucket smells let it stand for a period of time with soapy water in it, I think the suggestion was a day?? maybe. The second is mine, I inadvertently have two different bucket heights but lucky for me I made my frame for the slightly taller buckets. For the shorter ones I keep a scrap square of plywood standing in the frame next to the lid. If I put in a shorter bucket I just put the plywood shim underneath it. I would suggest you scrounge the closest size to what you have and build a shim for the floor of the frame, doesn't have to be elaborate or pretty, just the right thickness to raise a pail to the original 6 gal pail height. Drop it in for the shorter, stand it up for the taller, this allows you to use the new bucket(s) as well as the old. All of my pails held frozen eggs and were from the same supplier so I was surprised when I learned that they were more than one height.
1 year ago
A couple of clarification questions. Do you have a well head, usually a pipe coming out of the ground, and what style of pump do you have. Jet and piston pumps are above ground, usually in a basement or well house, submersible or drilled well pumps are in the well itself below the water level. Is there a filter or screen on the water system and do you know anything about your water depth, well depth, recovery rate etc?n
1 year ago