Erik Pehoviack

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since Jan 19, 2015
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Motorcyclist, Shop Teacher, Permaculture attemptor
Hemingford Nebraska
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Recent posts by Erik Pehoviack

This BB is a first part to my Straw Badge, it is 1/2 point from uncompleted Sand Badge bits.

This is the offending inoperable light switch after power has been disconnected and it has been pulled from the box. It is a light duty 15A 3 way unit that wasn't meant to last.

After removing the switch I clipped the old loops and made new as pictured below.

Stripping the wires.

Making the loops with a needle nose pliers.

Notice the loops go on the screws with their orientation to squeeze shut as the screw is tightened and are also coated with a bit of dielectric grease.

Finished light switch in operation. The fan is operated by pull switch.

The original post can be seen here.
7 months ago
Today I had the chance to work on a lighting / outlet circuit in our home. I’m going to use this to attempt the following 2 BB’s for 2.5 points for the Straw Badge:

Add an outlet circuit and circuit breaker – 1 point
– At least 4 outlets or one 20A dedicated outlet (fridge, disposal, etc)
– If GFCI or AFCI protected, add ½ point

Install 20 feet of wire in an unfinished space – 1 point

Here’s a shot after about 1/2 of the insulation is in this bedroom wall. You can see the two light sconce boxes above joined by a run of 12/2 and the closest one connected to the switch box, red arrow.

This circuit has 1 light switch, two lights, and four outlets, 2 on each side of the wall. Here is a shot of the boxes and how wiring is joining them.

I waited until drywall was up to begin installing outlets, this is one outlet on the bedroom side which supplies power from the circuit breaker to the light switch.

I used the wire strippers to strip the wire back 5/8″ or so to make my loops. All three ground wires were twisted together then wire nutted.

Even though my receptacles can take wire straight in I choose to loop and screw. Here I’m making the eyelet loops.

Neutral and ground wires all attached to my receptacle. Red is to the light switch and green comes from the breaker box. Note loops are all oriented to be pulled shut as the screws are tightened.

Outlet installed and ready for testing.

The yellow wire is a 22′ run from the breaker box (distance) running along the floor joists then up into the wall (behind). I will be installing protective boards above the wire so if anyone decides to hang stuff from the wires they won’t be damaged.

Wiring run under the floor joists are stapled at 4′ intervals and 8″ from boxes.

We have a box that uses QO breakers, I try to keep a unit or two on hand, just in case…

This is a very old (circa ’67) breaker box and will be updated to a 200 amp unit when our solar array is installed. The yellow arrow is our new ground, red arrow is new neutral, and red oval is the new 20 amp arc fault breaker.

Clearing out a knockout in the breaker panel for the new 20 Amp breaker.

Outlet and wall sconce circuit finished as noted by lit light and correct two lights on the circuit tester.

8 months ago
Here is my attempt at washing a vehicle exterior:

This is the before shot. I keep the vehicle pretty clean and the tan hides dirt very well. If you look behind the front tire you'll see all the sand and salt that came from rinsing underneath.

You can see the birds enjoy detailing.

Items I used in this car wash were a wash mitt, Simple Green cleaner, and a California Water Blade.

Applying soap to the wash mitt. I do not use a bucket, which holds the dirt. Instead I rinse the mitt and renew when it is dirty.

All spiffed up and ready for a drive.

To wax the windshield I used Meguiar's wax.

Rub it in and buff off when dry.

Final polished windshield should help keep bugs from sticking, when the weather warms of course!

8 months ago
Our shower head wasn’t that bad, but I thought I’d give this BB part a shot. The steps were simple.
First, a shot of our shower head before cleaning.

I soaked the shower head in white vinegar to dissolve buildup. It worked well inside the holes but not so much on the surface. This is the same bag of vinegar I used for my aerator.

Then I used a stainless steel scrub brush to remove the dissolved minerals. I didn't want to mar the plastic so easy does it.

Testing the shower head after cleaning rinsed away the debris. As you can see I could have left it soak a bit longer but it was getting late and we both needed a shower!

8 months ago
I chose this as my first attempt at the 6-part BB. Here it is.

Here's a before shot of the calcified aerator.

The first step in cleaning our aerator was to rinse off debris from the plumbing. This was caught in the strainer and dumped outside.

After rinsing the aerator and spray wand were soaked in white vinegar to dissolve the buildup. This bag sat in the sink and allowed me to zip up against the hose.

After a long soak the aerator was scrubbed with a stainless steel brush.

I also scrubbed the sprayer with the brush.

A nice clean aerator for the kitchen sink!

A nice clean sprayer as well!

8 months ago
Would you be able to stand them on end, burying them 1/3 or so?
That works great, wasn't quite sure where to post. Thanks a bunch!
8 months ago
Here is my attempt at a kindling cracker. Sure beats standing the log up every time I miss!

A tack weld to this old stool keeps the rebar in place while I heat and bend it.

An oxy-acetylene torch works quickly to heat 1/2" rebar.

Cutting angle iron for the feet using a metal chop saw.

Here I drill a 1/2" hole in each end of both feet. A pilot hole of 1/4" allows for easier cutting.

Cutting the legs with a band saw.

Here the unit is all clamped up. The feet have been tacked into place and the hoop is resting upon two locking pliers awaiting their turn.

Metal stamped my name into a side of one foot as per requirements.

The open hoop on our unit will accommodate 11" logs.

Kindling cracker setup and in use. It works very well on smaller dry material but I ran out of "oompf" on the larger diameter wet stuff.

This blog post can be seen in its entirety here.
8 months ago
This post is a quick how to on sharpening and fixing mushroomed chisels to obtain 1/2 point for "Dress up a mushroomed chisel or splitting wedge - ½ point"

I selected a chisel and the appropriate safety gear. I'll be using a pedestal grinder for this process.

The chisel, safety glasses, and earmuffs to complete this project.

First I fixed the butt end. A mushroomed chisel can wreak havoc on gloves not to mention bare skin.

Then I flattened the tip of the chisel. It had many grooves from chiseling into bolts.

I alternated between grinding the cutting angle and dressing the sides as evidenced in the next two photos.

Complete chisel. This appears to be an old air hammer chisel someone's been using by hand, but at least now it's a bit more prepared for work.

Finished chisel ready for use. The full post can be seen on our blog. Permarecycling
8 months ago
For this BB I've chosen the two solar batteries and the starting battery from our 1968 D500. All the tools and supplies are here:

The first step was to disconnect all the wiring and remove the caps.

The truck battery sits in our basement awaiting snow melt so it's already disconnected.

The electrolyte levels of all three batteries:

Only one cell proved to be low during inspection, it was about 1/8″ below its neighbors.

I used distilled water and a funnel to add water, bringing it up to level.

Cell after filling:

I then checked all the batteries for voltage. Each cell should have 2.1 volts at full charge, or 12.6 volts for a common 12 volt lead acid battery. The two solar batteries are beginning to lose some capacity but the truck battery appears healthy.

Now it’s time to clean the connections. They were pretty oxidized where no cable was attached.

Using a terminal cleaner to remove oxidation.

Terminals nice and clean.

I can't forget the bolt down attachments.

Dielectric grease helps prevent future corrosion.

All battery terminals clean.

Hooking up the terminals to the clean connections. Our system uses eyelets.

This is basic battery maintenance required on batteries. Electrolyte levels should be checked monthly, minimum. I clean battery cables every change of season or if I notice any hindrance in their performance.

The complete write up of this how to can be seen on this blog post. Battery maintenance

9 months ago