Eddie Conna wrote:Stucco is NOT waterproof. IT's basically cement, which is porous.
This is why code requires a waterproof membrane under stucco... usually some sort of waterproof "wrap".
I've seen earth bag homes that were "smoothed out", then covered with a waterproofing, like plastic, tar paper, whatever, then covered again with more of the cob/earth stucco material.
Cal earth does it this way as well. They cover the waterproofing with "balls" of cob, they call "reptile scales" Look at Calearth.org for info..,
Satamax Antone wrote:what is your take?
Sherri Lynn wrote:So, I have a question about max charge rate. We have a system set up with 17 sets of 4 each solar panels that are 12v, 5 amp. This should be a total of 4080 watts (if I am figuring this right). We have three battery banks set up at 48 volt (8 batteries per bank of L16E, 6V 360 amp hour batteries each bank). We are having trouble with the state of charge getting up to 85% and stopping. It wasn't doing this earlier, but we had something kick out the system and had to restart it, and it has been doing this since. Now the ME-ARC is set at an 80% charge rate, and we are thinking that given the amp hours being a total of 1080, that we should set the charge rate at 100%, but we were afraid to make a mistake, having read about overheating the batteries if you charge it too fast.
Does anyone know the answer?
Christopher Steen wrote:
Steve: "My plaster is water proof, however, in order to avoid having to reapply waterproofing agents like wax over the plaster every year, A roof will protect it from rain and snow. Absolutely no bandaid roof paint or synthetic anythings on this one."
Christopher: " If your exterior plaster is 50:50 vermiculite:cement, well it is pretty rich but not gonna be waterproof as is with the vermiculite aggregates. 2 sand: 1 portland (ferrocement) is considered pretty waterproof when water content is .4 to portland, but cement will always be hydrophillic. What happens with freeze thaw cycles. Wax is like an exterior bandaid, it melts and wears off, while something like waterglass is like getting stitches; a great waterproofer that's breathable and permanent (by far my preference). Quality elastomerics and other coatings like graco are just bomber in the durability department, and although not breathable can be a component in a well designed wall system like the above stated example with interior earthen plaster with all those clay platelets moderating indoor humidity and wall assembly moisture. For someone in a wetter climate wanting a dome (or someone wanting to cover an exterior dome, vault, wall, slab) an appropriate and quality coating is no more a band aid than a second roof system in order to push a dome comfortably into a wetter freeze-thaw climate than where domes originally excelled. For example, a quality ferrocement vault work topped with waterglass or elastomeric like graco should last way longer than the highest quality galvanized metal quonset (let alone shingles) in the face of many different destructive forces. Portland cement is synthetic, just like that paint on the metal roof, asphalt shingles, and misprint rice bags. It's about how well something is used."