Nathanael Szobody

pollinator
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since Apr 25, 2015
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Recent posts by Nathanael Szobody

Hot and dry Africa here. Neem easily wins this competition But also really good arid shade trees: albizia, ficus and senna.
3 weeks ago
I saw a video awhile back about a regenerative olive grower in Greece who just mowed the grass and put the clippings under the trees. He retained a lot more moisture that way.

As for the branches,  I feel your pain. My in-laws grow about 1000 acres of cherries and burn all the old  trees that they pull up. If you can afford a wood chipper, then just chip it all and put it under the trees. If not,  have a designated brush pile and just let it decompose,  some day you'll grow the world's finest lavender on that spot.
4 weeks ago

Wild Boy wrote:

I was going to do some logs, mulch, and dirt.



Perfect. Just make sure there's dirt between and around it all. You want biological "pathways" allthroughout. Lots of manure would also be helpful to provide nitrogen. It will compact significantly over time just just keep adding good stuff on the top. Like compost.

But like everyone else said: absolutely no worries about the cracks. Once you're soil is most it will just hold together.

Ryan Burkitt wrote:
I’m starting with an existing garden bed that was tilled in the past. However, I live in central IL and my soil is pretty good. Good structure and fertility.



Nice! I would plant the seeds not too deep,  cover with a layer of compost,  and cover that with mulch.
Ryan,  is this a new garden bed or do you already have some good soil going? Your method will likely be different depending on wether your soil is already light and workable or if it's a compacted lawn. My experience with corn is that it will thank you for every bit of input you give it. So something fast and easy will bear proportionally poor results.
Douglas sounds like he's got this figured out: if the natural swimming pool/ artificial pond can grow water plants and algae, then it can grow vegetables if pumped through an aquaponics system in a green house. If you add fish and fish feed then that's more nutrient to grow more veggies with. Do it and we'll watch!
1 month ago
Wow,  fancy! I like the green color. Ditto to the above replies. They look real deep,  so I'm curious,  what are you going to fill them with?
Hugelkultur as a method was developed by Sepp Holzer in a very humid alpine climate. My experience is that burying wood can be an effective means of building soil, but only with an abundance of moisture, and ONLY with lots of mulch in top of the system.

Where I live in Africa the method works in the rainy season when it rains several times a week. But in dry season it's a liability for the reason stated: it's difficult to keep the whole thing hydrated. It's often sold as a method of regulating soil moisture by absorbing excess and releasing it during dry periods, but actually wood mulch on the surface does this even better because it also protects the surface of the soil from evaporation and erosion both. Makes sense: that's the way nature integrates dead wood.

Of you bury wood, then you have to baby sit it: keep it mulched and make sure it has enough moisture. If you lay the wood on top of the soil as mulch it's working for you for years to come. I make wood core garden beds because it's hard to mulch an annual garden with logs, and because I keep it irrigated.

Hugelkultur is basically a way to slow compost LOADS of excess wood in a high humidity environment,  while growing stuff at the same time. If those aren't your parameters then just forget about it. Mulch mulch mulch.
1 month ago
I keep a meat broth or stew on the stove for a week or so. Just brng it to a boil with the lid on every morning and evening.

1 month ago

Anne Miller wrote:
Why not experiment by mounding some of them with dirt to see what happens?



Are the benefits of hugel so much better as to merit the extra work? "Mulch mulch mulch" is my mantra!
1 month ago