Antonio Scotti

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since Sep 14, 2015
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Recent posts by Antonio Scotti

In some of the products that I see around, some have a variety of endo mycorrhizas (4 to 7), some only put one (usually glomus intraradices).

I am just wondering how probable it is that all these other varieties can be found in all continents.
For example I doubt that Paraglomus brasilianum will be found in European soils....(just by the name), but I am quite ignorant about all the others (G. mosseae, G. aggregatum, G. etunicatum, etc.) I ask this because if I'd know that certain varieties don't happen to live in european soils than I could avoid alltogether buying a product that has them, because this will have less propagules of the ones that will most probably work. I know this is usually done so that the mix is general enough so that one or the other will surely work, but there will be less propagules of each...

On the other hand are these others (other than G. intraradices) also be able to adapt to different type of conditions, so that if they are unleashed in a foreign environment than their original one, can do their job as well so it may make sense to have them after all)?

Does anyone know of any good source of info on this?
3 months ago
Thanks Bryant
In case you have a bare root tree to plant, how do you use these granular types in order for the spores to make good contact with the tree roots?
Do you just dilute them in water and wet the roots?...I was just thinking (right now) to do a gel like solution with agar-agar and water and mix the mico-powder/granules with this gel so that it could stick to the bare roots...
3 months ago
Hi,
I am new to biochar and I am looking into biochar providers. One that I have found nearby where I live sells a product that has a quite high pH (8.92 in water) and high conductivity (994 microS/cm) is this normal within good biochar products? (the material from where it was produced was dry pine wood).
Also I'd like to use it in the tree holes when planting them and the soil's pH is already somewhat alkaline 7.9 to 8.1 and I wonder if putting a dose of biochar there can have the (negative) effect  of raising the overall pH of the area just around where the trees are planted.
3 months ago
Thanks for your feedback Bryant.
Would you be able to share names of other brands that you consider reputable, and what I need to look into the product to be able to tell if I may want to buy it or not (I mainly need arbuscular m. many brands sell a mix of arbuscular and ectomycorrhizas + bacterias and humic acids or even vitamins)? I have read that powderized mycorrhizas of endomcorrhizas usuallly doesn't work well because the process of creating the dust (grinding?) destroys the spores which are quite "big". On the other hand I have seen some brands that sell micronized  products but don't know exactly what that means and if they are usually a different process than grinding.

Regards
3 months ago
Can anyone, suggest mycorrhizas inoculum brands that sell reliable products. There are so many around.
I am looking for a product that can be useful for inoculating fruit trees like olives and almonds and also some N-fixers shrubs
I understand that I mainly need endo-mycorrhizas but most products come as a mix of endo and ecto mycorrhizal fungi, which means that I will have less of what I really need even though the other types might play other roles in the terrain around.
Also what is the minimum count of propagules that need to be in the product?

Some of the products also come as a powder that becomes like a gel when mixed with water, which seems to be good for bare root plants, still I am not sure what amount of product of this type I may need to buy for X amount of trees, since they say you need to coat the tree roots with the gel-like substance, still some of the brands sell like 1 liter bottles and don't know how many bottles I may need especially if I have to submerge the root system into this gel-like fluid..and I'd also need to have a big enough container for the tree roots to be dipped into the stuff....

Do you think that I may need both the gel type of inoculum for the bare root plants AND the pellet type for container raised plants, or the pellet type can be used in both cases?

Cheers
3 months ago
TJ, thanks for explaining how to go about the direct sowing and the lead on lespedeza.
Cheers
5 months ago
Spartium junceum and Cytisus scoparius are actually some of the plants I had initially considered, but put aside because of the soil type
I'll probably give them a go anyway and see if the actually work in my field.
Thanks for suggesting them
Cheers
5 months ago

elle sagenev wrote:
Just thought I'd give you some of my growing stuff. I have caragana growing in as the backbone of my wind protection tree line and sainfoin on 4 acres and spreading. I have heavy clay soil, highly alkaline. I'm pretty high altitude. Very dry. 11 inches of rain a year. I also have vetch growing, though it does not reseed and regrown as easily as Sainfoin has for me.

I am the type of person to plant absolutely everything and just see what grows. Lots of failures but some startling successes too! Plant some. You might like it.



Hi Elle,
thanks for your feedback, I think you are right. Perhaps I should just experiment more.
I am starting to feel that many plants that are described as "not apt" for what I consider to be "my situation" might actually work.
Cheers
5 months ago
TJ, you were suggesting to actually sowing those legume shrubs directly on the ground in order do become more drought resistant (and develop a better root system as well I guess).
Can you recommend any guidelines to do this well? or you just 'stick' the seed in the ground, irrigate it and hope for the best?
I guess some seeds may need scarification or other pre-treatment before sowing....but what after sowing?
5 months ago
Hi there and thanks for all of the quick replies!

For sure I am going to integrate cover crops / green manure in the aisles. I already pinned down which ones I can use in my situation which are vetch and oats, which is quite typical in my area, but intermixed with mustard since I need to continue the soil decompaction. Thanks for suggesting the alfa-alfa. I should look more into it for varieties that are more drought resistant. As for the sanfoine, I didn't know about it, it seems to be a very interesting crop to try out. The only thing is that the seed company that I was suggested says that it needs a freely draining soil, which is not exactly what I have there. But it surely is a crop I'll consider now when the soil type is appropriate.

I mentioned the soil type, but I'll be more specific now: silty-clay loam in the first 30 cm and clay loam deeper down (I think I specified it really badly in my initial post...apologize)
Thanks for suggesting so many options for woody shrubs or coppiced trees.
I think the siberian pea shrub can be a candidate for sure, but I'd need others.
Elaeagnus umbellata might be one of the or even Elaeagnus ebbingei if, as TJ mentioned, there is no restriction)

I think Caragana needs a more humid situation that the one we are in, and lespedeza bicolor also seems to need a more draining soil type. One of the big doubts that I have is if species that are said to be thriving in a specific soil type can't adapt at all to other soil types, for example if those that are said to be needing soils with good drainage might not adapt to clay soils....at the end of the day I don't need these plants to be productive in the same sense as the fruit trees will need to be, but I guess if the soil type is too challenging will eventually die or just their growth will be very stunted.

As for the suggested trees, I would rather not use them, even if just for the fact that need pruning every so often (especially the black locust). I prefer to reduce the amount of work if possible
and don yet have animals to do this type of work for me, nor would I want to introduce goats, for example, in a newly plated olive plantation.
So thanks so far for all the suggestions.
If anybody has more ideas please go ahead!
5 months ago