bonnie bright

+ Follow
since Oct 15, 2015
Merit badge: bb list bbv list
Biography
It all started with not being able to afford a $4 bag of nitrogen.  2 years later I had 25lbs of earthworms.  6 years later I'm attempting a food forest. 

Oklahoma:
High winds
Quasi Desert
Constant Earthquakes
Every weather anomaly with exception to monsoons and hurricanes
Notorious for Tornadoes
Serious Fracking Zone
For More
Oklahoma
Apples and Likes
Apples
Total received
In last 30 days
0
Forums and Threads

Recent posts by bonnie bright

 Laurie, I looked itno Johnson Su Bio Reactor because I accidentally made it one year. I thot, wow.  What is this that I made that works so well?  Knowing I don't come up with something wonderful first, I looked online for the latest and greatest and found the Johnson SU Bioreactor.  I figure I accidentally created an environment that retained at least 75% moisture so it cooked it perfectly.

So I looked into Dr Johnson's compost system for about two years on and off, but never built it as I have a bad back.  My idea was to come close to it within the system I had.  

But here's the thing I came to realize eventually:

You gotta be obsessive like me and watch videos like gabillioins of times, taking snapshots of portions of the video to view at a larger scale or slow it down to listen to the tone of speech and try to figure out what's missing.  Because he doesn't let on everything . . .

except on occasion he barely mentions the fact that once the pile cools down, he adds 5 lbs of worms.

The Johnson Su Bioreactor is just a gigantic worm farm.  Notice he lets it sit for a year.  Or more.  Yeah. We already should know that vermiculture is one of the best for plant fertilizer.  

The take away for me was to enclose my own system sufficient to maintain a higher moisture level which I had already garnered by comparing my compost with Charles Dowding's compost, a UK resident with higher humidity and moisture levels.  Dowding has videos showing how he has tons of worms in his compost, because he only turns it once within its life.  

Johnson Su Bioreactor is just a gigantic worm bin done very well.  
4 years ago
Just wanted to add my 2c to this topic.  The primary ingredient in the very expensive and prescription required Comfortis, a tablet for flea control is Spinosad, the very same product used to kill all types of worms in the garden (but it is broad spectrum so I don't use it in the garden).  Spinosad can be found in the garden store, the farm store orthe fee store and if your local doesn't carry it, as the manager to supply it in the spring.  I give my dog 1 tsp a week mixed in with some ROOM TEMP moist food once a week.  This is like massively overdosed relative to the mg of the Comfortis product, but it is truly this safe. I don't give my dog a large dose at once, because it is offensive to his tummy.  I continue feeding this until the fleas are gone.  

This product also kills human head lice and NITS in one shot.  It's a bacteria and harmless to humans.  So, treat it like a bacteria and keep it from light, heat and cold.  Humans could actually eat it with nothing more than allergic reaction, so it's way cool to get rid of headlice on the kids without worrying about getting it in their eyes or burning their skin.  I drenched their hair in a dilution and wrapped their head in a towel for about 20.  DONE in one shot.  

because it is a bacteria there is chance that the environment might become immune over time if wide spread use should occur.  

I sometimes get a dud bottle that doesn't work.  The bacteria is probably dead, but buying another bottle is far far cheaper than any other alternatives.  
5 years ago
I'm one of those weirdos wh ohappens to have good soil.  You bet yer booties I throw some in my pile.

I did something unusual:  I composted in winter last year.  For some odd reason, the plants that were fed with this particular batch of compost reacted almost immediately as though they were fertilized with a perfect synthetic mix.  Knowing that I never come up with anything new, I began searching online for newer and better and the latest composting methods and if someone had come up with a forumula that works this well.  Indeed:

Johnson Su Bioreactor  

I figured that my moisture content was not high enough.  In no way will I bother to build like he does.  I had an accidental Johnson Su Bioreactor and just needed to qualify the parameters that caused it.  Namely, the cool weather.  More specifically, higher moisture content over a longer period of time.  I rebuilt my compost pile to contain the moisture into the pile and reduce the air flow.  

Best compst ever.  Needs only to be turned once in its lifetime, not unlike Charles Dowding's compost pile.  
5 years ago
Hi M

First, could you give us an indication of the soil type?  Clay loam? Silt? Sand?  

This bed is established and in its own way is already perfect.  You only need it more manageable.  A good solid hugel bed needs the interior wood to be sealed off completely from sun, wind and elements.  That means no wood sticking up above the surface of the soil.  It will continue to decay in the areas where the wood is not exposed, but the winds and the suns will prohibit humidity build up beneath the soil with encourages microbial activity.  I never really understood the point of such tall hugel beds and have never made a tall one for this very reason.  Just this spring I built my first half and half hugel bed.  Most hugel beds I make are below ground, but this one was half under ground and half above ground. It was a pickle getting the soil to stay on even though it was only about 1-1/2 foot above ground and I have clay soil.  I built it one month past and it still has the burlap on.  it's the first time I've used burlap for soil erosion on a mound and I find it's working quite well.  I had the kids help me pack the first two inches of soil.  I watered well.  I let it sit for three days to watch the soil's reaction.  In our wind it quickly dried and cracked.  Then, I added another 4 to 6 inches of soil atop and could see that there would be an erosion problem.  I cut open some burlap bags and covered the mound in burlap.  



Second, stop watering unless you live in a seriously arid climate.  The established bed should have enough moisture beneath the top soil for the plant roots.  

Third, if you choose not to break it down and make it shorter for manageability, you need more soil to add to the top.  Hugel beds will, necessarily, have thicker layers of top soil depending upon the location of the wood beneath.  There's nothing wrong with ten inches of soil in one place and only six inches in another area only one foot away.  Plant roots are smart.  They know where to go to benefit themselves.  I find this amazing, actually.  The humidity within a well built and sealed hugel bed is sufficient to sustain them for moisture except in the most arid climates if a plant is to thrive.

If you choose to break the hugel bed down, all you need to do is dig out enough wood to where it looks as though it's easier to manage.  That part is a personal choice.  After you backfill the soil (or add more soil) you can drape burlap cloth over the entire bed using heavy bricks to weigh it down or you can use some landscape pins to pin the burlap onto the mound.  Of course, water this all very well.  You're right about the weeds being the solution as the roots of the weeds will help keep the topsoil from eroding, but you can be picky if you want.  It's your garden and you can manage it the way you need in order to enjoy the process or enjoy the results.   It only requires a little more work and some patience to be selective about growies.  After the burlap is on, slice some holes into the burlap to sow seed or place your transplants making certain the new sprout will have room to arise through the burlap easily.  Eventually, the mound will establish itself.  There's no way around weeding with perennial grasses and plants.  They will try to grow through the burlap.  You can manage this result however you see fit given the condition of the top soil.  That's an environmental factor which only you can decide.  You can mulch right atop the burlap, too.

I have heavy winds and the soil dries very easily even with the burlap.  I cut holes in the burlap where I planted my pumpkin seeds. I place a brick right below the seeded spot on top of the burlap.  The brick will keep the soil beneath it and also the seed soil moist so the seed can germinate without me watering it foolishly three times a day.  And it did.  I picked my most monstrous pumpkin plant to start on this. It's a plant I can depend on to grow under most circumstances to help establish that bed.  I didn't waste my time with delicates, but then again this is a brand new bed and it will take some time to decay for more tender perennials and annuals.  Probably by next spring.  

Your bed is already established.  You only need to spruce it up a bit and get it manageable.  Just do what you must to get it more manageable and then plant, weed and enjoy.

bon

7 years ago
Ah the sun. That's true.  I have room to space them.  I will consider this when I do my site plan.  
Thank you for taking the time to hit the right keywords for the search.  
I couldn't pull anything decent (probably algorithms trying to sell me stuff.)  

You link brought up some other interesting natural tree guilds and includes some other trees within planting consideration, like sassafras and pawpaw. It also mentions hickory being found among loblolly.  If my studies are correct, hickory is more allelopathic than pecan, but they are within the same realm of allelopathy.  If hickory is okay, pecan should be.  It appears from the review that hickory is not the more common and I may need to watch for specific microclimate to help encourage companionship.  Or maybe they'll do just fine.  

When I stopped to search with "how does loblolly pine propagate" I noticed the Oklahoma Forestry site has information about loblolly as a native species.  
I can call them.  They suggest growth is with slightly acidic soil.  Like the link to the publications, I think they are referring to
growth for maximum production.  My higher pH (testing at neutral to 7.4) might mean slower growth or potential for illness, wounds, etc.  

I wish I had a pic.  We have an older tall pine tree, like loblolly, nearby our other property that is bent over from a heavy ice storm in 2010.  I think it was originally 3-3/4 stories tall.  
The bend exists at the 2nd story.  It is significant.  I don't know why it's still alive.  I must keep this in mind and do some research and ask locally.  Consequently, where that tall bent pine tree groans there are 20-year-old cedar trees nearby.  This might suggest the soil is acidic.  I need to test.  It would answer quite a few questions.

I'd rather not be picky and just try it out, but this creation is for my children, not my life time.  I'd like to get it right.

Thanks!
bon




7 years ago
Climate: Central Oklahoma Zone 7a/b (RIGHT on the edge of zones)

Soil/Site: Very Windy
                        Prairie Clay -It's not a prairie, but this is as close as it comes.  Great nutritious soil by way of underground water and erosion.
                        High water table. Good drainage, but high.
                        Drought is common
                        Slope (I haven't measured.  Maybe 1.5:12)
                        Heavy Ice Storms

It's a barren slope exposed to wind where I want to establish the food forest.  Pines are favorable in this climate and my most important trees for canopy layer.  
I don't like evergreens, but they should be included.  I like the tall pines such as loblolly which will grow taller than the pecan.

Will loblolly tolerate pecan or visa vis?
Will tall pines survive ice storms and the high winds?  

We rarely have very tall trees because of the ice storms.  Arkansas is no different and there are a plethora of pine forests in Arkansas.  I suppose the protective nature of mass plantings shelter them.

How many should I plant?  I'm working with 1/6th of an acre.

I'm not certain if I can make this work.  

I could plant some sumac or something as a protectant until the trees protect themselves.  Any suggestions?  

Other trees going in:  pawpaw, redbud, bushes (nitrogen-fixing), currants and berry bushes.  
7 years ago
Welcome KC King

Seems you have a wealth of knowledge to be sharing.  I look forward to reading some of your posts.

I posted a hefty message earlier only to discover this site read it as "you chose to close your account"  I guess it's not working well.  

Speak soon

bon
8 years ago
Hello Oklahoma Central Permies

It all started when I couldn't afford a lousy $4 for a bag of nitrogen ....

That was many years ago. The nitrogen never hit the ground. I have great soil on a residential property a stone's throw from Stillwater. After tinkering for a few years, my favorite garden plots are:

hugelkulture beds
swales and berms

I recently leveled this 1/6th acre by hand and am starting from scratch with a site plan. I have gentle erosion problems. Swales. Berms. Trees. Shrubs. Sometimes I wonder if a spring will not pop up after so many years because all the storm water run off from three sides of the problem flow under and over the soil.

A huge elm tree rests below my storm shelter. We must use a sump pump to keep it down to 1/4" of water on the floor. It's a great example of natural water retention. I try to imagine the entire lot in this fashion with the right growies and swales and berms on contour.

Hopefully, this year, I'll be able to implement some grey water diversion, rainwater capture for potable water and gardening on contour.

My biggest challenge is that my grading is all over the place.

Happy permie!


9 years ago