Anthony Saber

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since Jun 01, 2017
Noosa Hinterland QLD, Australia
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Recent posts by Anthony Saber

I recommend the Johnson Su bioreactor. Just google and you will find out how to build the unit.
It is so powerful that it can just be used to inoculate seeds and produces great results.
Have research papers on the university website.

2 months ago
Don’t believe it matters, worms aerate and poo which  enhances the end product. I have compost and common earth worms in mine . It is amazing how the worms multiply.

2 months ago
Hi Lara,

I know you asked for tools but I think following a method will be more helpful.

First of all I think there is an up side to your problem - Its a clear unworked space, so you can start with planning out with what you want to do with the yard.

Then I would start by getting in a rotary hoe and digging up the soil to about 6 - 8 inches, give it a good watering and plant a cover crop of as many mixed seeds you can get your hands on
Cover the area with a thick mulch and keep the soil moist. Also apply compost teas made up of good compost. worm castings.

If all goes to plan after three months or so you will have a wild over grown yard. Your neighbors are going to think you are mad but you have started your journey to getting the soil to be productive.
Now cut down the cover crop don't pull it out of the ground leave the roots to rot which will allow air and water to percolate down.

Next if you are really keen I would get a soil test that uses the William Albrecht methodology and a report from a soil consultant who will prescribe a mineral recipe to address
the issues discovered in the soil test.

Once done you are well on your way to bringing the soil back to life and will be well placed to growing fantastic flowers and vegetables.

Good luck with this, it will seem like a lot of work but I can assure you it will pay off well into the future.

2 months ago
Hi Ivar,

I am open to any suggestions that will increase the nutrient density of produce. At present I have not found
any thing else that does the job via  soil test. My suggestion is give it a try and see for yourself.

I don't believe you will do any harm to the soil if you follow the the recommendations of a soil consultant who uses the
so called Albrecht method.

By using a brix meter you can easily and cheaply monitor the nutrient level of what you grow and eat.

I personally use minerals and microbes to achieve my aims growing nutrient dense foods.

2 months ago
Hi Anton,

The procedure to get any produce garden up and running is pretty simple. It starts with a soil test using the William Albrecht method of getting
the mineral ratios correct. Logan or Spectrum Analytics are a couple of labs that follow these methods.

The first thing that is needed to know is what the mineral make up of the soil is and get them in balance.
The advantage of this approach is you are not guessing or using outdated – old wife's tale of how to get the soil correct.

I am a soil consultant in Australia and a lot of the soil tests I see, show that too much compost is been used resulting in the
a complete unbalanced soil.

We all suffer from the MORON effect believing that by putting MORE ON of something it will work so much better.
This is not the case and will result in an imbalance that will in turn not produce the desired result.
This goes for compost, water, and fertilizer, etc.

So get a soil test to know what your starting point is then work on getting the minerals in balance. You will need an experienced soil consultant
to read the soil lab results and recommend a recipe to address what is excess or what is needed.

Next start building up the biological life in the soil (Soil Food Web) by making up compost teas with a high microbial life to feed the soil.

To grow nutrient-dense produce you need Minerals and Microbes.

The advantage of a Mineral Balanced soil is –
Higher yields.
Nutrient-dense produce – High Brix readings
Great tasting and flavorsome fruit and vegetables.
Plants will be more disease and pest resistant.
Longer shelf life.

If you need help in getting started down this track get back to me and I will steer you in the right direction.

Hopefully, this is helpful.

2 months ago
Hi There,
Can you show or tell me what constitutes a Good Soil, Compost, Compost tea sample under the microscope?

What's confusing is that when I look at a sample from a  bed that is growing very well it can show very little microbial life.
Some bacteria and that’s about it. I would have thought for a good growing crop you would see a lot more.

For compost its shows more of what you should see – Bacteria, Nematodes, Fungi, and Protozoa as it goes anaerobic.

On the subject of Protozoa, my understanding is in good soil or compost you should not really find many as it's aerobic.
Protozoa will only appear when it starts turning anaerobic?

For compost teas, if you started with good compost and feed and aerate you should end up with an abundance of all the
microbes but again as it’s very aerobic no protozoa.

My last question is – When applying a compost tea to soil should you see more microbial life a week later?

Thanks in advance.
4 months ago
Hi Casey,
Yes you can use spent brewers grain. I have done it and it works fine to make IMO 3
5 months ago

Dan Fish wrote:Wow thanks everybody. Almost too much good stuff to respond to. But I'll try!

Anthony, when you say use the biochar right away how long would you let it soak? I feel like I am seeing conflicting methods here, at least with the "traditional" use of each half of the formula. I'm trying to say that biochar is usually soaked for a few days or placed in contact with compost for weeks but AACT is recommended to be used immediately after the pump is shut off. Also, what kind of microscope would be the cheapest I could get away with?


Hi Dan, You don't need a very expensive microscope I have the Amscope Microscope which does the job.
You are looking at spending $200 to $300 but shop around.

A microscope will change the way you look at soil, composts and teas.

I would let it soak for an hour or so longer is OK too. Make sure the BioChar is totally covered. I like to make up the soak from worm castings to ensure all the microbes will be present.
The BioChar needs to have a coating of the soak. I also pore in the remainder of the soak into the soil.
5 months ago
Hi Mike,

My advice would be to have a complete soil test done using the Albrecht methodology (Logan Labs)

You are looking at only 2 elements but you need to get the complete picture of the mineral break down in the soil.
(What are the levels of the missing 13 other elements?)

Once you have that information you can make an informed decision on how to get the imbalance corrected.

If you get that right you will be able to grow a nutrient-dense crop that tastes better and is more pest resistance.

Hi Dan,

I make up lots of AACT’s and what I have found is the teas are only as good as the base compost used.

This means good compost will make up a good tea – Rubbish in rubbish out.

I have a microscope so I am always checking soil and composts to see what they are really made up of.
Unfortunately a lot of compost and soil amendments have no life in them.

I make up teas from worm castings, IMO (Indigenous microorganisms – Korean Natural Farming), and good composts or a mixture of them.

Take note,  to ensure you have enough aeration, a small fish pump normally won’t do.
I have found running the process  for 36 hours works the best.

To answer your questions –

To revitalize bare soil, I would first feed the soil a dressing of compost, wood chips, and then mulch.  Once done you can then apply the tea.
( You need to ensure the microbes have a food source to start with.)

AACT as a biochar charging agent would be great but then use the biochar straight away and as said above make sure they have a food source.

Apply the worm bin with tea from casting made from the same bin will not harm, but you could also use teas make from other sources which may
increase the diversity of the microbial life in the bin.

I hope that helps.


5 months ago