Alice Tagloff

Unless the creek feeds directly into it, I probably wouldn't be worried about it flooding.
That being said, beavers or not, that's probably a bog. There might not even be a suitable place to build on.
Even if there is a place to build on, the water's most likely brackish, and it's doing something to your water table. So obtaining drinking water's probably going to be an issue too.
If the clear cut happened -around- where the water is, and not -over- it, then most likely the clear cutters did something to drain another area to this one, or their tracks did something to block a drainage. You'd pretty much have to take a look around the entire pond, and see if there's visible drainage into or out of that new pond on the surface. And it's obviously in a low area.
As long as you don't build right along side it(just think of all the mosquitos coming out of there), and find a relatively higher elevation, it should be okay. Ish. There's always something to be considered.
Play around with the geo location on Google Earth if you can't actually get to walk the site. It'll tell you the elevations. And then look around other mapping, topography sites with the land elevation and type markers, it should identify if it's a marsh/bog. If your serious enough, contact the local land survey offices and see if anyone has a topography survey.

Bogs are not usually considered wetlands, and they usually don't look like one either, sometimes it hard even with looking at it to tell that it's not solid ground, till your out in the middle of it and your loosing your ATV thru 10 feet of floating moss and practically have to sort of quick sand swim to a more solid edge and haul yourself out and have to hike 3 miles back to the nearest road(we have one really big bog out by my grandfathers cabin that usually swallows up at least one quad every 5-10 years because the guy driving isn't local and not familiar with bogs, and nearly lost our own quad when the bog was wetter then it should have been during a drought).

There's several possibilities, with the creek nearby it's more than likely that the logging activity blocked or cut off the drainage to the creek as Glenn said.
It's also possible that the parcel is actually trees that grew in a boggy/swampy area, and with the trees gone plus the logging damage to the ground, the water simply gathered up. Logging companies -do- go into swamps, usually during the winters depending on the areas, and clear cut regardless of what's under the snow.
Clearcut logging, even when during the winter, still uses vehicles with massive tires more appropriate for mining trucks. I've seen haul out tracks that leave a rut in ground 6 feet deep, and when the areas more bog than land, they fill in, network and create small ponds. But nothing like what's in your picture.

There's also the possibility of it being the work of a beaver, even if it's not active and the beavers moved on, the dam's still there and even without 'maintence', keeps working for years.

The only way to find out would be to actually take a walk around the land parcel and ask someone local.

All true, but it's the first link I could remember.
The reason why they have an opening with only the single feed shoot seems to be health & safety regulations from my understanding of it, they don't want people to pinch their fingers, the ones you get specifically modeled for the USA or even built in the USA, generally are expensive and all have the same thing, the press-wheels have to be covered with that feed-shield/fingerguard. If you bought your machine as long ago as I think you did, yeah, safety reg's kicked in and the machines had to change.
There's no reason why they wouldn't just keep running cane thru them, even if they're marketed towards juice-shops.
There are other machines out there and suppliers tho.

The hand crank ones have that large crank wheel on the side, and apparently all you do is take off the handle, and you can put a belt drive over it very easily. It's actually just a slightly smaller version of the one you have. It's actually the same tray and spigot at the bottom. The motor in general is run off to the side, but you don't need to run a gas one either, just one a couple HP on it.
Most people simply take off the feed-shield/finger guard.

http://www.sugarcanemachine.com/products.htm -outrageously expensive, but they're in florida.
http://www.sugarcanejuicers.org/products/ - same people as Lotus café, but have a better picture I think.

You can get these machines from Hawaii now and can skip around customs within the USA.
Here's one of the places you can order from, and adding a belt and a motor to the manual press shouldn't be to much of a problem. Most of these kind of presses seem to either have an adjustment, or auto-adjusts so they can be used to press sorghum stalks, and corn stalks(I have no idea why), or so I'm told.
http://thelotuscafe.com/sugarcane-juice--juicers.html

Tho they mount the motor below just incase, you know, the motor gives and the grease and exhaust doesn't end up either all over the press, or in your face.
That's the only thing I don't like about your rig, Kevin. The motor on top probably makes it top heavy, and if it isn't electric, then it would blow exhaust right about face level.

If a stump is fresh, Epsom salt.
Just bore 1 inch holes about 2 or 3 inches from the outside of the stump, every 3 inches or so, as deep as you can manage.
Pack the holes full with Epsom salt and then pour water into it to let the salt seep down, not to much, just enough to wet it, then cover it with plastic/bucket to keep the rain off it.
It could take a couple of months depending on the size, to kill the living wood, then it will start to rot. So you might have to go back and keep topping up the salt every 3 weeks, etc.

Depending on the type tree, the stump could try to regenerate by sending up new shoots at the stump or along the roots, etc. I've seen logged wood stumps that are clearly still alive, still producing sap, sending up fresh shoots to regrow, etc, two years after the original tree was cut down. So making sure the stump and roots actually die in order to -get- the rot started, that's the trick. Epsom salt on a fresh stump could kill the wood left behind and cut the time before rotting between an entire season to a year.

Once the wood is dead, then the rotting starts. You can help it along by packing the holes full of a high nitrogen fertilizer/material(urine will probably help with that), and adding a little around the stump and any visible roots as well.

The issue with using bailing twine comes with having animals around.
The twine eventually comes apart, or frays loose, or you end up loosing bits, and it tends to end up in the stomach of animals. The twines not digestible, even the natural stuff, and it's been known to kill animals. From horses and cattle, and I even know of a dog that had to be put down because of it.

It might be ok for say, use in earth bag construction, or the sort, but not for something like a fence.

It's better to work on amending the soil first, and just simply waiting to purchase your trees next year, rather than cause them more stress.
Hastily purchasing trees could end up with you not selecting the right trees (not enough pollinators), or trees that don't match your zone environment(and the frost/heat/sun kills it).
Check with your suppliers and others in your microclimate area, they might have a spring planting recommendation, or a fall one, and it may not be the right time to purchase yours trees to begin with.
The extra time will give you a better time to research exactly what kind of trees that you want. You might have been planning for cherries, but have you considered grapes, quince or plums instead?

Some trees simply don't last an entire lifetime and have to be taken down and replanted. While some trees simply grow to tall in the end to be properly harvested unless you prune them dramatically.
Pruning will eventually be very important on most trees, are you prepared?

Also, do a search for nurseries in your area, you might be surprized at what's within a driving distance to your home.
http://plantinfo.umn.edu/

And here are a few of my favourite website resources for trees at the moment.

http://store.isons.com/
http://ediblelandscaping.com/
http://seedlings.uidaho.com/Store/DrawCategories.aspx?PageID=56
http://www.cloudmountainfarmcenter.org
https://www.rollingrivernursery.com/
http://www.raintreenursery.com/
http://www.4seasonsnurseries.com/

It wouldn't really work to rough up the polished side, even being tumbled against other stones, you'd probably burn out the motor first.
You'd be better off just taking something like a disc grinder to score the finished side, or a belt grinder/sander to take off the polished finish.
Using it as flooring might make sense in that it's free, but it's not really appropriate, and can lead to heating issues.
I'd use it to make a foundation wall tho, laid out brick like, to make one of those bottom-stone, top wood facades. You could bring the stone up as far as the window sill height, and then continue the rest of the way up with cordwood.
But if you can get enough of the large sizes, why bother with the cordwood at all? Besides the labour.

As for rain catchment on your roof, just about anything would work for that. What's the key would be the gutter system that you put up. Tho using a smooth metal or plastic surface would be recommended, instead of a asphalt or cedar shake roof, etc.

Do you mean the Popup Trundle? There's different sizes and a lot of them come with the built in bed etc, so you have to google around a bit.
http://www.sears.com/fbg-bed-supports-pop-up-trundle-unit/p-SPM1696166801?prdNo=23&blockNo=23&blockType=G23

A regular trundle doesn't rise, just slides in and out.

Or maybe the Quad Fold bed frame?
http://www.sears.com/pragma-bed-153-quad-fold-bed-frame-size-full/p-SPM10821887115?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

There's what's called side mount casters, where the plate is to the side and not on the top, so that should reduce your height profile.

But the main issue is going to be the weight clearance. Casters have a weight limit to what they can support, even if your locking them into place, just the weight of a person sitting on the bed would basically break/crush the caster, even a metal & poly one. So the small 2" clearance casters only generally have a weight limit of around 75lbs, give or take 25.
So that's the height issue.

Is there a width clearance that you can work with? Because with side-mounting casters, that could be a possible work around to give you bigger wheels with more weight support.
Also consider a low-profile box frame instead of a metal frame, just to avoid welding. I don't know exactly where'd you'd find one to buy, but I was once given a mattress set that had a box frame that was made out of 1x3" wood boards mortised together, laid flat like a picture frame or a door, with a canvas like frame stretched over it. It was just thick enough to sit inside the metal bedrails and didn't actually come over the top of the bedrail. Making one should be easy, and can be bulked up with steel plates to protect and hold the joints. That was for a twin/double mattress, so I'm not sure what extra framing for a large mattress that would require.

Have you considered an aluminum or steel appliance caster set? They're generally around $15-20 per a set of two, and have a weight clearance of 1200-2000lbs with the way they're configured, which has 16 wheels per caster. But they don't have a lock on them. With the steel set, you could possible hack them apart and just weld them into a metal frame as long as you have a top plate welded into place to carry the load. They don't list the height clearance,
http://shop.servicecaster.com/9601-Steel-Appliance-Rollers-p/scc-9601.htm
http://shop.servicecaster.com/9603-Aluminum-Appliance-Rollers-p/scc-9603.htm

To get around the lock issue(other than a block wedge), if you make your mattress frame into a box that your mattress would sit in, there's Floor Locks, they're meant to combine with something on a caster, and basically it's a leg that drops down on a lever, to hold something like an industrial tote in place. I'm sure if you look around, you'd be able to find one that would fit. But they can be expensive and prices vary wildly between sellers, by as much as 50$ and more, so googling it a worth the time. You can get bottom mount and side mounts, the smallest bottom mount I've found tho is just over 3 inchs tall. And once engaged, you can gain about 2 inchs of height. So if you can get a set in the front, and in the back, that would make certainly lock your bed into place.
http://www.globalindustrial.com/searchResult?searchBox=&q=attr_casterindex%3DFloor+Locks