L Cho

My experience is that sock makers have changed the way they make socks. Most of them have gone from a fully knitted sock, to one having a sole equivalent to a looped pile rug. One with a very thin weave supporting the loops. This makes the sole feel thick and cushiony, but also more prone to holes, when the thin weave fails.

Occasionally, I find fully knitted socks, and they last much longer.

The Garject is made by an Australian company called Dreamfarm. I have one and can recommend it highly. It is the best out of many garlic presses that I have used over the years.

It is easy to use, has plenty of leverage, and has a wiper blade to scrape the garlic off of the extruder, and an eject mechanism that works pretty reliably, once you get the clove placement right. I have the stainless model, and have no experience with the lite model.
https://dreamfarm.com/garject/

Michael Lawson wrote:We have this one from Lee Valley - Canadian company I like.  It's pricey - $50.  Self cleaning actually works.
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/kitchen/kitchen-tools/presses-and-mashers/mashers/111357-garject-garlic-press?item=HK331

Asians use ear cleaners made from bamboo. My mother used them to clean my ears, and when I got older, I could do it myself by comparing the feel to when my mom did it.

I have read that Asians have dry ear wax, as opposed to wet, due to genetics.

Ulla Bisgaard wrote: Once dry, store in bags or jars with oxygen absorbers.

If you vacuum seal your jars, then you can dispense with the oxygen absorbers. Vacuuming powders can be problematic, because air movement typically gets powder under the gasket, compromising the seal. The trick is to poke a vent hole down the center of your powder, to prevent air evacuation from kicking up any dust. I use a chopstick.

My village has an old factory converted to a performance space. The building is uninsulated concrete, and new for me, has concrete roof framing, that seemingly looks formed in place. I proposed to warm it with a rocket heater during performances, and the organizers have added it as a project in their plan for next year.

A massless design would be ideal, as it is a large space, used infrequently for short periods of time. Barrels can be a little hard to find here, so I was thinking about fuel oil tanks, which can be had for free. If the tank can be cleaned/purged enough to be considered safe, can I simply adjust the value of internal surface area, ISA, by raising or lowering the exhaust port?

I like the idea of the plunge door, but I have questions.

Is there a minimum angle, from perpendicular, that is required for reliable closure? How thick should the steel be? What method is used to attach the insulation?

The most reliable repellent that I have found is burnt hair/fur, the smell of which most animals and insects will go out of their way to avoid. Burnt hair specifically smells of burnt protein, which is a concrete warning to creatures that one or more of them was consumed by fire. They instinctively avoid this smell, unless they have absolutely no other choice.

I had a family of rats move into my garage attic, so I put some hair clippings in an aluminum pie pan, placed it in the attic, and with the proper safety precautions, as hair burns quite quickly, lit the hair on fire. Within minutes I could hear the rats scrabbling, and by that evening they had moved out. I left the pan with its ashes in place, and never had animals try to nest there again.

This works similarly with wasps. If you knock their nest down, they will just rebuild. But if you light their nest on fire, and leave the charred stump. They will move to an entirely separate structure, to avoid such apocalypses.

Leaf mold soil is the basis for the Korean JADAM method of ultra low cost organic gardening. Using leaf mold as a starter for inoculating your soil with a broader spectrum microbiome, which increases nutrient availability, and sequesters more carbon, which is the key to water retention.

Here's a simplified version of what I was trying to describe without an expansion tank or safety valves.

As the temperature of the RMH cannot be modulated, any loop of water, or coolant, flowing through the core (your green loop) would need to be vented, to allow steam to escape. If you are running the coolant through a heat exchanger, then it would be possible to keep the coolant temperature below boiling, just like your automobile radiator keeps your engine coolant from boiling. If you can cool it enough with the heat exchanger, then it won't boil. But a fixed size tank will eventually run out of thermal capacity, leading to your coolant boiling, and a possible boomsquish.