Casey Williams

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since Mar 21, 2016
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Recent posts by Casey Williams

There are the mushroom bottles that they use a lot in Asia. They generally require hundreds of thousands of dollars of equipment to make it labor/cost efficient in the long run. https://keolamagazine.com/land/mushroom-in-a-bottle/

Additionally, I have been playing around with using high-temperature resistant restaurant containers (Cambro or Rubbermaid) with holes drilled in the top as opposed to one use poly bags. They can be pressure sterilized or steamed at high temp. for long periods of time. I am only trying to grow out the mycelium (not going into the fruiting stage) to use for compost piles, but I am thinking that the resulting blocks could be used to fruit mushrooms in a similar way to the poly bags. I've just started experimenting with these, so I don't know if it will work in the end and/or be efficient enough. It is a promising start for me, though!
1 year ago
Alas, I still haven't gotten the book! I ordered it from two different vendors and had to have my money refunded both times, because they did not have/deliver the book.

How can a book be so hard to track down!?

I found it from two other vendors, but for double the price. If/when I decide that I can afford it, I'll let you know how it is. Please let me know if you find it frown another source in the meantime.

Best of luck with your tropical fungi endeavours!

3 years ago
Myceliated cardboard to woodchip is certainly doable and there are some great references out there that can help you along the way to growing mushrooms with that method.

The focus of this thread, however, is using wood chips in 5 gallon buckets.

Best of luck to you with all your growing (ad)ventures!
3 years ago
In my opinion a good option is logs, stumps, or wood chips. These options take a bit more time to fruit.

On a shorter time scale, though, you can do the 5 gallon bucket method with pasteurized or "cold fermented" straw. I got lots of food grade buckets from local stores (Wal-Mart bakery icing buckets) and restaurants. Just call around and ask. Many times they are just throwing them out, anyway.

15-20 holes are drilled per bucket. I think 1/2" diameter, but can't remember off the top of my head...I'd have to look it up. And you drill 5, 1/8" holes in the bottom for drainage.

I have been using this method and it is (comparably) fast, very easy,  and has very low energy input.

****You usually inoculate the straw with myceliated grain spawn (or maybe cardboard spawn?) when using this method****

I don't think you would get enough production from fruiting only out of jars to make it worth your while. But I'm not sure on that front...just what I think based on my experience.
3 years ago
I just ordered this book! It was a bit hard to find, but I finally got it from biblio.com. Still waiting on its arrival, so I can't comment on its contents.

"Technical guidelines for mushroom growing in the tropics- Quimio, Chang, Royse"


I live in deep south Texas and have had trouble growing mushrooms outdoors except for in Fall and Winter. Just built a semi-climate controlled environment (insulated tin building with window unit A/C and a fog humidifier) and got some mushrooms fruiting now.

3 years ago
It was more than likely the mycelium that you were seeing. Mycelium suspended in liquid looks quite different than mycelium growing on an object. As previously mentioned, it is never a good idea to open your LC jars unless you have a glove box or flow hood. I pretty much never open my jars unless I am emptying the contents.

One other thing you can do in the future to check for contaminants is to just let the jar sit for several days without stirring. The mycelium may come to the top for air, but if any other organisms are present, they will also come up for air. You'll see (usually) green or black contaminants on colonizing the top of the liquid if they are present.
3 years ago
Cybil, I currently live in Corpus Christi, TX. It is often very hot and very humid here.

I am currently constructing a small mushroom growing building and hope to attempt some outdoor, more "natural" installations in the future as well.

The fermented straw method requires no pictures, as they would be pointless. You literally just shake some straw into a container (trying to make sure there are no large clumps) and cover it with water (with no chlorine or chloramine....you can use ascorbic acid to remove the chloramine). When it gets smelly (one to two weeks, depending on the outdoor temp.)--yes, it can get quite smelly, because you are relying on anaerobic bacterias to colonize the straw--then it is ready to use. Drain the water off and innoculate.

I am generally on the Paul Wheaton side of "if it smells, then you are doing it wrong" these days (though I personally think that there can be exceptions to that rule), so it's not my favorite method. BUT it is very easy and has a very low energy input.
3 years ago
I will eat sardines on top of most any veg....roasted, steamed, sautéed. But I REALLY enjoy them mixed into a really good salad. Just make whatever salad you like (I like a dressing of olive oil, lime/lemon juice, and smashed avocado mixed and tossed with the salad) and make sure that the sardines are mixed thoroughly through the salad. You get the flavor of the sardines, but it is not overpowering.
3 years ago
I would maybe look into plants with different root structures and habits (depth of roots, size of root system, etc.) to plant under or by the trees. Basically, the whole "different root zone" concept. You can also find plants that grow well in conjunction with the trees that you are planting under. What usually grows under/by/with the selected trees? Possibly try to mimic that as best you can while using plants that you will enjoy harvesting as well.

It may also help to find out what grows well in moderate to minimum shade in your area. In South TX we also have hot, sunny, long days much of the year. Many "full sun" plants like to be protected quite a bit more than I would think, because of the extreme amount of sun and heat that we receive.
My pleasure to assist!

As for the silicone...I would go ahead and get the high temp. silicone. If you will be pressure cooking LC jars, it is my understanding that the RTV silicone can hold up to those higher temperatures, where regular silicone cannot. I am not positive on this front. However, I have learned and read elsewhere that the high temp. stuff is the way to go.

The syringes can be stored in the fridge. I'm not sure how long they can be stored, though. LC stock is generally stored in the fridge, which slows the growth of the mycelium. Though the growth is slowed, it is not stopped. Thus the mycelium is still consuming the nutrients and expanding. Eventually, the cultures will simply grow too much and clog the needle and/or senesce. I can't be certain, but I believe this (senescence) has happened to me with some of my quart jars of LC after 3-4 months in the fridge. Your syringes can be stored for a while, though (several weeks at least??).
3 years ago