Sebastian Köln

I would probably not go into that effort of adding a coulomb meter and just use a digital voltmeter that uses very little power, since you already have the same functionality in the BMS.
That way you can still get a rough idea of the state of charge, but it is not quite as complex (and expensive).

Okay, good.

The USB chargers are nice.
I want some on my (2.5KWh) battery bank as well, but it has 16 cells in series and I have yet to find a USB-PD (Power delivery) module that supports voltages of 60V (58V when charging stops).

Hello Eric,

I highly recommend to get a Battery Management System that can balance the cells.
It will protect against over-charging and -discharging and balance your cells when charging is complete.

Lead-Acid batteries handle over-charging without problems, they just get warm.
LiFePo4 cells will get damaged.

I bought a recumbent bicycle over 10 years ago. It was quite expensive, but worth every bit!
No back pain, a good suspension and less air resistance than with a upright bicycle.

RT is pretty decent. And definitely not western propaganda.
I have given up on BBC, they don't allow reports that don't align with the government policy.

The existing page looks fine to me, both on mobile and desktop.

What I would like is a list of posts (just the post title, no picture), similar to a table of contents, linked at the top of the website, so it can be found without having to scroll through everything.

Actually, the energy the pump adds to the moving water will convert to heat, so you get two benefits at once. The electrical losses in the pump will mostly also go the water as I assume it is build to be cooled by the water itself.

Mark Reed wrote:[...] keeping a garden pond or one where you're raising fish just a few degrees warmer,

You are going to need a LOT more power for that.
Solar radiation is 1000 watt per square meter. You need 5 times the surface area of solar panels than pond area to match just the direct sunshine (assuming your panels are 20% efficient).

Cristobal Cristo, there are cheap USB-C PD (power delivery) chargers that take up to 35V on aliexpress. They work just fine with my new laptop and phone.
The problem is that my battery setup is 48V nominal, up to 56V when charging, so it needs an additional DC-DC converter to run them.

My next setup will be 24V, just so it works with most of the readily available electronics. Then all you really need is a 8 Lithium Iron Phosphate cells and a BMS.

As long as you don't connect a battery, it is fool-proof.
Yes, connecting the wires is a short circuit, but the panel can only produce a limited amount of current. A short circuit means very little voltage drop and since power is the product of voltage drop and current, it will not generate much heat.

I suspect two hot plates in parallel will be a pretty good match for the solar panel.

Risk of damage: none.

The plate will get a little bit warm.
The voltage is harmless, if you touch both terminals with your tongue it will tickle, but otherwise you will not feel anything.
Solar panels tolerate short circuits.

To get the most out of your panel, you need to match the load to the current the panel can produce at any time. Without active electronics that is not possible. Aiming at 2-3A is probably the most realistic. The heater has a resistance of ~10 Ohm and will create a current of maybe 14 Volt / 10 ohm = 1.4 Ampere depending on the sun.
That means it will heat up with a power of 1.4 Ampere * 14 Volt = 20 Watt