Sebastian Köln

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since Feb 05, 2016
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Recent posts by Sebastian Köln

Trace, I assume your work hours have significant overlap with the time the sun is out.
So Ideally a second battery would stay at home and get charged while you are at work.
I suppose you could take the charger that came with the bike and charge the battery at work if needed as well.

Assuming something like 4 sun hours and an empty battery, it needs a bit less than 200W of solar panels to charge it up within a day.
12V solar panels are easy to get, so with two of them you can get 24V, which needs to be stepped up to the 48V of the battery.
A boost converter that allows to set voltage and current limits should work. Since the input power is limited by the solar panel, just a voltage limit should be enough. Just get a multimeter and check the voltage to make sure it outputs what it claims.
And charge the battery in a place where if it catches fire, nothing else burns down....
4 days ago
Measuring is probably easiest with a spectrometer: Laboratory equipment that is far from easy to operate and expensive.
But I don't think you actually have to measure it yourself.

White paper should be quite good already. And if it is not good enough, search for UV reflective paint like this:
http://www.birdstoppers.com/flock-off-uv-paint

Aluminium foil seems to be a somewhat usable reflector as well.
1 month ago
I have a camera ready, the sky is somewhat clear, but I am in the wrong location...
1 month ago
I would not worry too much unless there is actually a significant amount of lead released.

https://www.awe.gov.au/environment/protection/chemicals-management/lead/lead-in-ceramic-crockery-pottery-making
mentions “quick colour test”.

As someone who has soldered quite a bit (and the old solder contains quite a bit of lead which is released into the air), and handles metallic lead from time to time, intact ceramics are one of the less significant risks for me.
Lead piping would be my biggest concern.
1 month ago
Don't snip the cable ties!
Try to pull the disconnected wire through the first (and maybe second) cable tie to give you some access to the conductor.
Then remove insulation until you get at least 5mm, better 1cm of conductor. Depending on what kind of conductor you find (stranded wire like the black cable) or solid core (the one where you can see the copper through the transparent, you will need to remove that transparent insulation. (scraping or fire will do that.)

After that it should be possible to twist the conductor of the black cable around the exposed conductor from the motor and insulating it with some flexible tape.
1 month ago
If that does not work, can you copy the contents of that line here?
In the calibre editor, there is a "verify book" button that should take care of it. (Also under tools)
I have actually left Germany due to all the stupid regulations and rules and the inevitable disaster caused by the incompetent and corrupt politicians ...
1 month ago
Have you considered placing a second access point where you actually want to use the internet and running a cable to it?
Wifi signals are unpredictable and the results will vary with every parameter that changes... Device connecting, orientation, location, weather, foliage, ...
2 months ago