Julian Miller

Saw this in the paper.  Main-stream/vested-interest business-first science in the slow lane again

I've been building etc PCs for more than 20 years if it was me & I needed my files I would just migrate my drive.

This is a simple option to migrate your existing OS & files which would over-write the existing software & files

This works & is straight-forward to use.
https://www.easeus.com/backup-utility/free-windows-10-disk-imaging-software.html
Use Install to dissimilar hardware option.

You however MUST have the drivers for the new machine - if this is a pre-built PC you should be able to download the req'd driver package from the manufacturer site. These you load when you restart the PC after the migration which overwrites the destination HDD.  If you are lucky & have good internet access Win may auto-download the req'd files too, but I find it pays to cover your bases.
You will then need a couple of reboots for the drivers to install but when done it will be what you are used to & all other stuff will be gone.  

You can also secure wipe the drive prior to moving the image over
https://www.partitionwizard.com/partitionmagic/free-hard-drive-data-wipe-software-009.html

For the Win10 install you should extract the OS key on the new PC & store it so you can re-run the upgrade using a Win10 image.
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10

To get the key
https://www.techadvisor.co.uk/how-to/windows/find-windows-10-product-key-3632749/

Hey Phil.
As someone whose wife has amassed a lot of fleece from the neighborhood sheep for her own yarn production, I regularly get the wool pulled over my eyes...

We need to get global society to learn & apply this knowledge ASAP & it will be an uphill struggle against vested interests.
I hope my donation help will get the message out.  Bon Chance Thomas

Can't stop to comment on this book being available, cos I'm too busy reading it right now!  Thanks

The area of the room for my first & learning build is only 5x9ft. This is a block wall extension linked to the main brick-built building by a brick & block corridor of about 5x5ft. (I was thinking of tracing the whole L shape outline).
From what you say I guess I should try for 8" then I can extend if it works out, rather than tearing the whole lot up again, for a bigger gauge. My initial thought is the unit in a corner & then the under floor pipe running around the perimeter.
Digging up the cement/hard-core (rubble) floor thus shouldn't be a mammoth task . & the various gains will be well worth it. I am planning to reduce it to a shell & re-roof/re-render walls etc so the floor being up too is OK.

FYI This is a starting point for UK chimney regs
http://bfcma.co.uk/regulations-and-standards.aspx


I will need to figure out the relative fx of tube overall length & req'd chimney height. I did see some arguments about the use of underfloor without a stack somewhere, which has left me thinking about draw vs linear volume vs height.

The workshop is physically discrete, with all walls exposed to the weather & is bigger, can't recall exactly but estimate 45x60ft ish.

I am slowly wading thru the threads, isolating these key bits of info takes a while. I saw a comment about using a chimney pot for a riser & thought that might be a quick solution for initial trials. I could probably get hold of some quite long used chimney pots locally (3+ft).
I can see I am gonna be busy....

Thanks for the detailed response.
The points you make have made me consider variables that I might not otherwise have figured into my newbs calculations

Perhaps I am trying to run before I can walk, but I do like to experiment. I will initially be making something that 'must' function via the info here (I think I will buy the Wood Burning Stoves 2.0 DVD set about RMH so I can see what is happening with different processes.)

Looks like I will have to go for 6-8" - where I am siting this, the free space is relatively minimal, I will need to excavate the floor or suspend the pipe work. This is going to be a small annex build with the possibility of running pipes into the rest of the building -if- I can get it to work properly.
The former seems preferable as then I have the floor mass for heat retention.

The 2nd install would be for a workshop - greater area & would be better as a radiant only build as far as I understand it, not being ocuppied 24/7. 50/50 radiant/storage might be a better way to start thinking about it though. (I.e. a limited amount of mass+a lot of radiant metal surface.)

I all cases I think the gasifier angle with firebrick/fire cement components is where I'm heading.

One thing - I was thinking of using oil filled containers as mass to store heat rather than burning it. I kinda wrote off burning even waste oil given Big Oils relentless destruction of the planet.
Is a clean oil burn even possible?
............Better head over to DuckDuckGo.


Thanks again for the detailed specifics - it's a great help!

Not sure if this is the kind of thing you guys normally experiment with but I guess you may be able to help. This is totally new tech to me but I am keen to try it.
I have watched a few vids this week & as a newb, wanted to ask you experts about some ideas I had.

These 2 vids caught my attention

- can the idea of flame jets via perforation & external draw inlet pipes be used in a reburner?

- this kind of stove (radiant rather than attached to a mass) was something I wanted to try. (But it would also be METAL!!!)


I am short of space & want to try a pipe under the floor, would having the flue step down into the floor from the exhaust outlet create a problem? Given heat rises I have to question what that would do to the draw. I envisage a vertical pipe as the exit point for the exhaust, 6-10ft high.
Also :-

diameter of the flue - e.g. what fx does it have if made 1-2 " instead of 6-8"?

addition of holes in the centre riser (like Takeshi Ueno's design had) - if anyone has tried this - how does it influence the internal reburn?

position of exhaust flue - does it need to be a 180 from the input? From above - could it be 12 o'clock in & 3 o'clock out I'm also wondering about under & over (exhaust below to share heat with the burn chamber)?

Given the underfloor nature of my notion, I have also had thoughts about using 'batteries' filled with oil or water, lying within or adjacent/connected to the exhaust pipe. These would be totally sealed containers e.g. >70% full, to allow expansion & maximizing localized mass density.

I thought I could use waste engine oil (being mineral it would of course need to be totally sealed as despite the urban environment, I don't need any more toxic ground; or vegetable - say from local fast food joints)


FYI I'm in the UK - currently temperate climate - don't know how long until global climate change impacts that