Ruy Lopez

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since Mar 31, 2016
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Recent posts by Ruy Lopez

Rebecca Norman wrote:You may well be able to save some or many of those trees, especially since for cider you don't need to have specific named varieties. And if you keep and/or plant a variety of other types of plants and don't need a big tract of cosmetically perfect dessert apples of specific varieties, you can certainly get the kind of diversity that will allow you to keep it organic. It's great if the orchard hasn't been sprayed in decades and the trees are still producing at least a bit. That suggests that you still have an intact ecosystem. Don't let your neighbors shame you into spraying just once to get a clean slate! You could spoil the whole ecosystem and then introduce problems if you don't continue spraying.



Some of the trees produce quite a lot still. The LT plan is to plant specific cider varieties now and blend them with the other existing apples (assuming I can get them back into real production)
8 years ago

elle sagenev wrote:So are you ripping out the old trees and planting new? If I were you I'd get an expert, perhaps from a local college or extension office, and get my trees identified. You may already have all the cider apples you need.



No intention to rip out the old trees. Some are too far gone to save but I'm trying to teach myself to prune right now. Planning on working on the closest 4-5 trees this weekend to see if I can not kill them!

The problem is the old trees are all over the place and quite a distance sometimes. We are hoping to not invest a lot in equipment until we try a few test batches and work out the numbers for a small commercial operation.

I'd like to identify the varieties but so far haven't been able to find anyone who can and the nearest agricultural college is too far.

Odd question but I figure the trees were planted by the first homesteaders. The only thing left of their operation is a stone foundation from their house. I'm assuming that at that time apples were mainly planted for eating as opposed to cider but does anyone know if it may have been a mixed planting? Cider used to be very popular. I don't have a date on the foundation but figure maybe the 1920's (?)
8 years ago

John Wolfram wrote: In general, if you live in a place where people care about water rights (because it's so dry) you'll have an easier time going organic.

As for removing stumps, your use of machinery will dictate whether or not that is necessary. If you won't be using a tractor, you can just let the stumps rot in place.




Water rights are not an issue here. Too much water might be but for now all is good. Not that it's a real factor in my region as it's more like the US and close to the border but Canada has more lakes than people. No joke if you take it all in.

I'm doing this (or hope to) as cheaply as possible. Thousands per acre to uproot stumps is I suppose ok (maybe) if it can be built into the business expense. Otherwise I'll do it myself somehow.

But do orchards need a tilled, clean soil to begin with?
8 years ago

matt hogan wrote:It entertains me greatly when people say that you can't grow food without pesticides, as if before the 1940's, everyone starved to death.

Of course, what many mean is that we can't grow food in the way that we do now without pesticides. It may be necessary to plant older, more resistant varieties and have more of a polyculture (at least keeping hedgerows), but we can certainly grow food without spraying.




Some of the apple trees seem very resistant to insects and rot. Any ideas? I'd be happy to forward pictures once the winter is over.
8 years ago
Oh and, I had relatives who used to farm apples many years ago. I'm told it's next to impossible to go organic for real.

Is this true as spraying isn't on my agenda if it can be helped.
8 years ago
We have about 50-60 very old apple trees growing on our property that haven't been touched in probably 60+ years.

No clue what type but they vary greatly in apples and range from 3 inch trunks to over 10.

It's a long term dream to have a cidery or to make perry. Small scale but still commercial as living where we do isn't easy for incomes.

Most of the property is old fields that are fairly overgrown.

Does anyone have experience with starting a cider/perry orchard? I'm particularly concerned with clearing. Most of the trees are not huge excepting the hedgerows but removing stumps would be expensive. Is it necessary for an orchard?

I'm planning on planting a few test trees this spring.
8 years ago

Glenn Herbert wrote:
I understand that cob works well, and it wouldn't require highly refined clay for this application. Cob will dry out completely in warm weather and draw moisture from the wood.



6) Clay for your purposes doesn't need to be smooth and refined. My (upstate NY) glacial till clay has lots of sand and gravel, and rocks, in it. I have found that just removing stones that are around half as big as the thickness of the work I am doing is sufficient. I take out stones bigger than a golf ball in general. For finish work sifting dry clay through a half inch mesh works well. If you want your logs to fit closely, this might be a good idea for you.



Thanks. Glacial till but few drumlins here. How long does cob take to dry out fully and can it be used as a building material applied over weeks as I'm not sure how much time I will have (multiple applications) to complete the shed in one go.

The soil nearby is clayish but very difficult to dig and I'm not sure a hole in the berry patch is what she would like. I've no equipment to move anything yet beyond a wheelbarrow. Is there an alternative source? Straw can be found but farther away. I tried last year without success but if I can find it does it need to be chopped or simply added via bales?
8 years ago
cob
Hello.

Brand new to posting on the site but I've been here a few times and liked it so thought I'd join the conversation.

In a nutshell, I'm building a potting shed and ASAP once the ground completely thaws (we live in eastern Ontario). I'm thinking 10x12 with a 4 foot wide patio/deck on the 10 foot end with the roof extending over it. No insulation, wiring or water connections just a shed by the veggie garden. It's not for me per se but I want to make it as eco friendly and beautiful as possible (and inexpensive doesn't hurt) for the woman who will be using it. It will be sited almost in our berry patch so I'd like it to be a bit of a retreat area for her as well.

Anyway, I'd really like to make one (south facing) or all four walls if possible, cordwood and recycled glass. We have a lot of cedars on the property and many I've cut for the raised garden beds but I've quite a few left over and most have been down for 1-2 years.

I've heard lot of conflicting information about doing it though. Some sites say concrete is fine for mortar, others cob only (and where would you get the clay besides digging), some say you need long roof overhangs but others say that's foolish, etc. I wanted to try a gravel bag foundation but seeing as I'd like this completed relatively quickly and it would be my first build like this I'm thinking straight concrete blocks but I'm hoping it will be a learning experience in a number of ways. If it goes well, then ultimately I'd like to try a much larger structure in the future but won't get into that now.

We've a lot of land and I'm sure this won't be my last post so hopefully someone has some experience with doing this sort of building.

A few questions to start with:

1. Are roof overhangs necessary?
2. Mortar, mortar, mortar?
3. Is 6 inch-1 foot cordwood structurally enough for non-insulated walls?
4. Is the weight of the walls a concern being on concrete blocks?
5. Has anyone any experience building with cedar logs as the main support beams this way (just an idea)
6. If cob has to be used any suggestions on where to get clay as we have fairly clayish soil but it's rocky and very difficult to dig. Would the clay content need to be tested first I assume?

Thanks

8 years ago
cob