I've only got 2 plants on the "pull on sight unless nothing else is growing nearby list"; English Ivy and Himalayan blackberry. Except in the hedges, about half of my deer barriers on a hectare are blackberry hedge. I also pull a lot of trailing blackberry. Tripwire blackberry, when the vines are vigorous and mature.
The other plant I often pull is nipplewort. For the original red clay "soil", that one and quackgrass seem to like it most of all. Except I learned that ya don't pull quack grass, because that hardly works unless you are going to dig up and turn over sod to bake and die in summer sun. A no-till and no-weeding treatment is to bury it once or thrice with fertile material. As soon as the area will supporting dense 4' + tall annual growth, the quackgrass mostly disappears, remaining a minor component of the cool season ground cover.
For whatever reason, the perennial grasses are not very aggressive here. I especially like grasses that seem to germinate rarely and happily grow as a tight poof ball bunch that can get 6' tall before it starts to fall over. I know there are 3 of those species here and that they do not spread by rhizome like that darned quack grass, but I do not know their names.
Kinda funny how I aim for the ratio; ~61% coverage with insect ecology, no-management-but-seed-flicking weed herbs and whatnot (usually with as much nitrogen fixer as I can encourage by stepping on things) and the rest of the area is plants I wanna eat a big bowl of. By definition, the garden is 60% "weeds": plants that do not need my intervention apart from flicking seeds once to live here, and grow vigorously. Not "yard" gardening, that's for sure.
I do a bit of yard garden, a few mostly amended rich soil beds where I mostly mat down annuals and mostly pull perennials as the tomatoes and squash spread into summer and dominate the area come mid July.
I'm a fan of the concept that there exists conditions where all you need to do is control which plants get sunlight. Just a bit of walking and matting down the competition, the gentle way (if you aren't felling a tree.)
It seems to work well with happy potato plants and most the annual herbaceous volunteers here, but the woody bits will spring right back, and it seems that the perennial mycorrhiza cannot be so easily convinced to switch which plant they are assisting. They are in it for the long haul, and your plant's long term prospects do not look good...
I really enjoy finding naturally occurring lines and strokes of a plant species in what looks like a thicket come unmanaged summer solstice. Reminds me of the sculptors who said something along the lines of "I didn't make it, I just revealed it." I don't garden, I'm a fan of sculpture. haha
Also potatoes. I love finding potatoes. "How far away did this one run from the nearest planting last year? let's see here....1 pace, 2 pace, 3, 4! 4 paces!!!
I strongly suspect that when an annual plant self assembles into 100+ ft^2 monocultures in an area with 100+ species of plant going to seed nearby, it is the scheme of the fungus.
The mycorrhizal fungus in that spot thought "this is the plant that will get me the most goods, so perhaps this other fungus and I will eat all the other seeds except the chosen species..."
Probably through mycorrhizal fungus, we get the weeds nothing else will compete with. The plants we wish would grow there just can't manage the same photosynthetic efficiency in the given conditions, so the fungus gets a feel for the roots you're hoping will spread and thinks something like, "ummmm, no thanks, I'm in it for the long haul and I'm sticking with my horse."
I began to suspect this when I noticed that nipplewort came out with more snow white material attached to it's roots than any other species I pulled, and it has a tendency to form mono culture patches like no other plant here. From oh so many tiny little seeds per plant, making oh so many tiny little plants, some of which get to be 5' tall be it mostly stalk. Thusly, nipplewort also helped me learn that if it's an annual and it grows YUUUUUUge, definitely let it grow. That's a rule, for fertility and time management (if 1 annual plant gets to be 7 ft tall and is the only plant in it's m^2 of 100% shade, managing that area is much faster than say, quackgrass.
Thimbleberry is a perennial that arrived last year, and apparently it has a fungus friend that also doesn't play nice. Thimbleberry made the biggest lushest mint patch disappear, in 1 year. Mint is another one that seems to allow very little seed germination in it's territory here, but apparently it will give it up for thimbleberry (or the mint was more actively wiped out, perhaps by its former friend of a fungus switching horses.)
I have seen red kuri squash planted in a ~3 yard sized pile of woodchips and manure grow so rapidly, no other plants could compete. One seed called it a year after making 4 vines that each went 12 to 18' in different directions, up and over things. Thus I learned, trying to grab a squash that is hanging in the middle of a blackberry thicket can be kinda difficult, and when conditions are optimum for your desired plant, you don't really have to weed (because your plant is growing like a weed XD)