Roy Long

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since Nov 07, 2016
North Idaho
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Recent posts by Roy Long

As well as knowing your span you will also need to determine your slope, the greater the slope the faster is sheds snow weight and the less snow load buildup.  Also the greater the angle of the timber to the snow load the stronger the wood is, ie imagine a boards longitudinal strength (standing upright) as compared to it's span strength.

100 pounds per square foot is quite a snow load, we are rated the same here.  My house has vaulted ceiling through out much of the house and much of the wood supporting my ceiling is still visible.  This house is quite old and was originally just half the size it currently is and so it has a number of structural styles within it.  The original house side has old hand sawed tamarack beams and rough milled roof supports.  The new side has dimensional roof supports some of which are still open to view.

We have quite a slope on our roof, drops 7 feet in height for each 10 feet in span.  I would suggest a similar slope for your roof and metal roof as it tends to shed snow well.  Even with that steep slope we get clumps of snow falling off our roof that weigh in at as much as a ton or two in a loud sliding whumppp....  The snow hits the ground so hard that it actually shakes the house with the impact sometimes.  Another thing to keep in mind on roof slope in a place with that much snow is how far to overhang your eves.  The further you overhang the eves the less snow you get piled directly against your walls in the winter.  We have a 24 inch overhangs and we get snow built up to five feet deep against the house walls in winter here.

As for spanning wood, I cannot give a simple easy formulae, but I can tell you the sizes of wood we have and the spans they are supporting, might at least put you in a ball park range maybe.

Upstairs the vaulted ceilings are 4 x 6 beams spaced at 60 inch intervals.  The beams are fitted bolted together at the peaks, on the bottom ends they have 16 foot long 3 x 10's bolted to either side of each 4 x 8.  This gives a span of 8 feet from the center to the outside and a fall of 6 feet over that 8 foot span.

Downstairs in the front of the house where it has been added onto we have vaulted ceilings that go up to 18 feet in height and that is supported by two different systems dependent upon where you are.

One system that incorporates into the original structure uses two 2 x 10 boards to span ten feet with a drop of 7 feet over ten feet.  These two 2 x 10's are bolted on either side of a 3 x 10 on the underside spanning ten feet across the room, these supports are spaced at 6 ft apart..

The other system of support is a single 2 x 10 spanning the 10 feet at the same angle 7 foot drop over 10 foot span with no lower supporting system these supports are spaced at 3 feet apart.

The enclosed portion of this end of the houses newer style roof is supported by 2 x 6's spaced at 16 inches, spanning 20 feet at a drop of 7 feet in every ten feet of span. This system also has a major beam support midway that is made of 5 sandwiched 2 x 8's to create a free span ceiling from the upstairs peak all the way to the downstairs wall.

We get an average of 105 inches of snowfall a winter here and we have never seen the roof stressed in any way shape or form.  I would have in the past said that we don't have to worry about earthquakes but we have actually two relatively powerful quakes in the last three years now.  We some floor beams in the last one as they were apparently just sitting on the foundation rather than being attached, but in spite of that our roof is quite strong and stable.  

When I used to build pole barns 25 years ago we commonly used 24 foot 2 x 10's notched to nail to a 6 x 6 post on the end, then it would span 10 feet and rest on top of another 6 x 6 post and then it jutted out over that post to be nailed to then end of the opposite 2 x 10 for the peak of the roof.  This created 10 foot pens on the outside of the building and a 16 foot wide aisle down the center.  We put in these 2 x 10 roof supports every 8 feet and then nailed 2 x 4's spanning them to attach the tin to.  The snow load down there was not quite what it is up here but it still up around 75 pounds per square foot I believe.  These roofs were also not as steep as the roof on our house.

I don't know exactly how helpful any of this might be to you but maybe it will give you some idea.
With my 20 some odd thousand trees 40 to 60 feet tall my forests are sequestering about 3,303,000 pounds of CO2 a year or 1,651.5 tons of CO2 per year.  So in my forests I sequester the amount of CO2 per year that the average 83.4 Americans produces.

I am slowly returning my fields to forest as well so each year that amount goes up.

As for Carbon footprint, with a family of six and running a farm our electric bill runs around $105 a month in summer and $120 in the winter.  We produce most of our food so we do not buy a lot of food shipped in from other areas and due to my food allergies and those of our children we never eat out at fast food joints.  We only have to leave the farm once a month generally for the wife's doctors appointments at which time I do all of our monthly shopping and errands.  We drive on average about 150 miles a month including my driving here on the farm.  With six people there is a lot of laundry here, about 40 loads a month, but we air dry our clothes winter and summer, in the winter we use the clothes lines in the house and summer the lines outside, or when it is hot in summer we use the lines in the house which helps to cool the house off as we do not use any kind of air conditioning.

We produce about 1/4 the carbon footprint that the average American does and we sequester enough CO2 to cover our production as well as the average production of another 82 Americans.

This does not include the carbon sequestration of our fields which is relatively low but does sequester a few more tons of carbon each year.  In another 10 years we will likely sequester enough carbon to cover the production of a hundred people beyond our own use.

I admit to laughing a little when I see people bragging about their small CO2 footprint.....  When you get into negative territory I will be impressed a little...
1 year ago
I always allowed the babies to nurse until they were weaning age 10 weeks before I would try to milk any of my goats.

The doe will produce according to demand, the babies suckling all of the time creates a demand and the doe increases production to meet the ever increasing demand.  

As for the makeshift vacuum not sure I would advise that myself.  But then again I made a breast pump for my wife 26 years ago so I probably have no room to talk.

As for the milking you mentioned not working the udder, you want to work the udder and work the milk down and you also want to take your time, it takes a little bit for the milk to work down sometimes.  I found that first year milkers generally did not produce all that well and I never had any Nigerian dwarfs that ever produced much at any age.  

Most of my herd was large Saanen mixes cross bred to Alpine, La mancha and Nubians.  The large goats could produce up to 1 1/2 gallons a day each but my Nigerians and Nigerian crosses generally maxed out at about 1 quart a day being milked twice a day.  As the Nigerian blood became ever diminished down to about 1/4 Nigerian and 3/4 full size the milk production went up to match that of the full sized goats.

As for milking the Nigerians, I had a heck of a time with that, I have large hands and couldn't hardly pull it off with those tiny little teats.  Luckily I had my wife and six kids who ranged in age from age 2 up to milk the Nigerians.  The other issue with the Nigerians is that they commonly sat down while we were trying to milk them, I literally had to hold many of them up while they were milked to keep the udder out of the bucket.  The other challenge was that they are so short it was tough to even fit a bucket under them and even on the milk stand the wife had double over in her wheel chair to get under there.

How much milk are you looking to get a day?
1 year ago
Did your scallions go to seed after regrowing them?

I am not seeing any sign that mine are going to though as I stated before it is early yet.
We built a 700 square foot shower building at my last foster home to deal with the 60 or so kids there for each summer camp.  Apparently parents had complained about their kids not showering for an entire week.

To heat the water we simply placed a 500 gallon black plastic tank on the roof and allowed the sun to heat it.  One would think ohhh yeahhh pretty simple and easy right.... wrong... lol...   The dang tank exploded twice as it was getting too hot turning the water to steam and had no pressure relief valve.

After we got the pressure relief system figured out wow... the only problem then was that the cold water was simply fed by the spring that we had and did not have a lot of pressure and it was hard to get enough cold water to offset the pressurized steaming hot water and it tended to burn people like me who are more sensitive to hot water.

Rather than use a "heater" system maybe try a more direct approach like we did.

For the main house we also added in a system of water tanks around the chimney upstairs on the second floor to preheat water before the water went on into the hot water heaters, worked quite well.
1 year ago
Ohhh awesome....

In the first photos I was starting things in the house from the grocery store after having eaten most of the plant.  I put everything outside about 10 days ago or so.  There has been some over night freezing in that time which seems to have been a little trouble for the onions, they don't look as healthy as they did, but seems to have had no effect on the leeks at all.

I quite like leeks but they are kind of spendy here so I don't often buy them, so I thought I would give growing them a try this year.  Then I read about the resprouting them and regrowing them after eating most of the plant and I was intrigued.  Part of why I was intrigued is with this Covid-19 situation I have noticed it is harder to get seed and who knows where we may be at next year come time to plant.  I thought I would collect mt own seed but alas leek being in the onion family only seeds in the second year of growth so there would be no seed this year.  The lights went on after seeing that you could resprout them...  I wondered whether I could get seed this year if I resprouted leeks from the store grown last year.....

It is looking like a "very" good possibility....

I also have a Beet in the house beginning to flower, I have been collecting greens from it for a few months since I planted it in the house and started leaving it alone a few weeks back and it has done well since beginning to go to seed now.

I have about 75 carrot tops in the garden growing, I am hoping to get some carrot seed from those as well this year.

As I stated before the cutoff onion bottoms are not looking so good and none have tried to go to seed yet, but they are still growing so we will yet see how they fare in this experiment.

I am excited about the potential of getting celery seed as I have yet to ever find celery seed here locally for sale.

It can also be fed to hogs, my hogs didn't care all that much for it but if you mix grain and feed into it they will eat it.
1 year ago
Thought I might should show some pictures of the radishes flowering... These are from the small crop that I had going my main garden last year.

1 year ago
Radishes grow at an exponential rate, I would say your radishes are looking great for how long they have been growing.

Keep in mind the 25 to 30 day grow time is based upon a fairly small immature root you can easily allow them to grow and extra 2 or 3 weeks to get a better sized root crop.  You also have to keep in mind that cold overnight lows will slow the growth rate down a bit but when it warms up a bit in a week or two you will see a much faster growth rate.   Radish plants can grow a radish root at an amazingly fast rate of speed.

I have grown a lot of radishes here as they are very cold tolerant and I have always had good luck with them.  I plant mine good and early Jan-February direct seed sow and I am generally collecting radishes by early May and through to early June.  We often still have overnight freezing in April but often warm up considerably in May sometimes up into the 70's and 80's which tends to make my radishes bolt.  About half the years that I plant them I get few radishes to eat.  I learned about 12 years ago that you can allow them to flower and go to seed and then collect basket fulls of the seed pods from them and eat those instead of the radishes.  Not only do they make a very pretty addition to your garden with lots and lots of showy flowers the little seed pods are quite tasty.

The seed pods are kind of like a snow pea/stringless green bean in texture with a mild sweet peppery radish flavor to them.  They are a very popular bar snack in Germany which is where I learned about the idea originally.  I like the fact that I can literally get a small basket full per plant rather than just one singular small radish root.  Anymore I eat most of them as radishes and then I leave a couple radish plants every square foot or so and then they grow into big 4 to 5 foot tall bushy plants covered in a thousand or more flowers each.  I find the early radish flowers tend to be a favorite with bees and so I always make sure to grow some near and often in with my zucchini, squash, pumpkin and melons to help bring in the bees for better pollination.
1 year ago
I could load pages of baby pics, here is a few...
1 year ago