Bryant RedHawk wrote:video of low pressure, battery operated water valve This might be of help.
Orbit makes a battery operated timer valve that needs lower pressure than 80 psi to operate, there is no mention of the lowest water pressure it will work at, but I imagine it would work for your situation.
The other choice would be to elevate the tank so the head pressure would be 10 psi. That means you need at least 10 feet of drop to the valve from the tank with a 1 inch line.
Roberto pokachinni wrote:Sweet Place!
I like most of the suggestions, above. I'm not sure why Marco suggested leaving taller stuff on the East. He probably has good reason, but I differ in my thinking on that one. In my mind the morning light is almost as important as the South light. By the time west light is coming in, the plants are done with light for the day, have shut down photosynthesis. and are wanting it cooler.
Great advice. Part of the my "keeping it cool" strategy is to avoid cutting too many down. I was thinking about maybe doing a bunch of small openings instead of one big open area. What do you think?
Roberto pokachinni wrote:In general, keep as many trees as possible. The trees provide the basic foundation for the fungal network for the whole landscape which is the immune system and information system for the plant community. The more you keep this intact, the stronger your system can be. Haul additional trees/logs/debris to the property for hugulkultur. Leave a sign by your gate for such things to be dropped off by neighbors who are clearing out stuff. Be specific on the sign that you don't want paint/chemicals/creosote on the woody stuff.
Roberto pokachinni wrote:If you walk the road that is above your property on the slope, you should be able to see where the water enters your property. Treat this (or these) as a intermittent creek(s). Walk the 'creek(s)' into your property, mapping out, and considering the possibilities for water capture, be they swales, ponds, or divergent drainage ditches to swales or ponds. You should be able to walk those erosion gullies back to the source inlets by the road. Do that too.
Roberto pokachinni wrote: If you have clay, you have good nutrient retention, so any organic matter is not easily lost once you have the erosion issues dealt with. If your soil is full of loamy dead leaves then you are in really good shape. You can add gypsum to clay which will loosen if further, but will also alkalize it. With clay, ponds will be relatively easy to build. I suggest many small ponds.
That's been broken for a while, the duct tape just happened to give way lol...it's 1/3 shovels. That's what I get for buying a cheap tool.
Roberto pokachinni wrote:It looks like, in one of the pics you broke your shovel. Crap.
Roberto pokachinni wrote:Next big storm, leave home and head out there, and play with chasing the water around, bring ribbons and a small saw or machete. Cut a bunch of shortish sticks and place them in the ground as stakes and tie ribbons on them where you want to do work, when it's dry. Build yourself an easy A frame level and go to work on the weekend with the grub hoe or mattock.
Roberto pokachinni wrote:Save the manure/chips for when you are planting your trees. Cover it, or build a composting humanure toilet over it. Looks like you have plenty of leaves/duff, that you can compost if you get some good nitrogen stuff to mix with it. Try to get a good load of fresh straight up manure and build a big hot compost. You could do this on top of those chips to get them rocking.
Roberto pokachinni wrote:Any other chance of getting more chips, or quality organic material... don't pass it up.
Nick Kitchener wrote:If you decide to drop the elm or oaks, remember that you can inoculate the logs with mushroom spawn and stack them in a shady corner. They won't go to waste