John C Daley wrote:I use 90% shadecloth to reduce the wind coming through my outside kitchen.
It is about 3 feet from any burnersFibreglass disappeared from the market in Australia because the surface breaks down and you get lots of loose fibres.
It may be the same case where you are.
Maybe you can find Polycarbonate.
John C Daley wrote:What is a Bent?
Why not use shade cloth instead of an earthen wall, fix the shade cloth so it can be rolled up on nice days.
If there is a chance hands can touch the stove pipe, it will need insulating.
If you go through the roof and dont want rain coming down the fixture through the roof will need insulation as well.
Your comment about the roofing is confusing
translucent ; permitting light to pass through but diffusing it so that persons, objects, etc., on the opposite side are not clearly visible:
Frosted window glass is translucent but not transparent.
Unless you think passengers in planes will check out your cooking, I am not sure why he has a preference. it may be to cut back on the heat of the sun.
I often have polycarbone sheets and steel sheets set either 1 plus 1 or 1 clear and 2 steel.
A full polycarbonate roof would be hot and may have too much light.
Amit Enventres wrote:Cool idea! I would suggest with that much heating going to make sure there's ample air movement possible in hot cooking months. But, I haven't seen the design. As for putting up the structure, I usually brace the bottom of the support beam either with a metal bracket or it being in the ground/cement. I perfer to also have a person just hold it for extra support too. I then quickly instal stabilizers across the installed beams before anything knocks into it. I then continue with the rest of the structure building piece by piece, since I need to lift it. The one thing I learned the hard way is you have to factor in the adjacent structure because you can't reach certain things if it is blocked by another immobile structure.
As for corrugated plastic roofing, you can order it in the U.S. I'm not sure exactly what type your after, but when I was working on a green house I found some stuff online. I hope that helps!
Timothy Markus wrote:Sorry to derail, but I don't see a pic, only a thick line at the bottom.
John C Daley wrote:Your talk of drunck drivers surprises me, do you have plenty in that area?
thomas rubino wrote:Ryan! That is just awesome! Congratulation's! Home owning is a great forward step in life. (Its also a lot of work...) Great investment in your future!
Sounds like some cool plans you have for it !
With being close enough to town for city water are you allowed to have livestock ?
Jim Fry wrote:Since you are acquiring limited acreage, I would guess you have nearby neighbors. I would suggest to anyone buying land, to first visit all the neighbors. No matter how attractive a home/land is, with a difficult next door neighbor it will be a trial. Look as hard at your future neighbors place as you look at your possible purchase. Is there junk laying around? "Inappropriate" signs? Are they running a car/mower/tractor repair shop next door, and how much noise do they make? Does their land drain onto your land, and what drains? Do they have a target range in their back yard, so you will be listening to gun fire every weekend? You might even stop by the police department and ask if there have been complaints about your future neighbors. ~~Good luck with your purchase, but try to be realistic. You may be at your new "paradise" for a very long time. Neighbors will be part of it.
T Melville wrote:What kind of temps are you hoping to maintain? How much deviation is tolerable? At 1,100 watts, I think it could heat too fast and overshoot the setpoint. Any idea how many watts it uses at very low setting? My seed dryer is only 60 watts, but easily maintains ~90° F. (Mind you: it's an old lab incubator with a muffin fan added on top. It's well insulated, and only has ~ a cubic foot of volume.)
Maybe you could mitigate (If it IS an issue.) by lowering to minimum wattage, and / or installing a mass between the heat and the rest of the space.
Where would you put the thermostat? Near the top would probably cycle on and off less often, but increase risk of overshooting the setpoint. Closer to the heat source would reduce the risk, but probably cycle often.
I wonder how putting the heat at the top with a fan would work? Looks like you were hoping for simple convection, with no fan, so maybe scratch that idea.