Ryan Hobbs

pollinator
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since Jul 10, 2017
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food preservation forest garden goat homestead cooking pig
Im 29, enjoy gardening, I make pottery for a living, and I can cook like a chef. I'm no good at dating, but if you find that you like me, and I like you back, we can give it a try.
Otway, Ohio, USA
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Recent posts by Ryan Hobbs

Pictures of the design as it currently stands:

John C Daley wrote:I use 90% shadecloth to reduce the wind coming through my outside kitchen.
It is about 3 feet from any burnersFibreglass disappeared from the market in Australia because the surface breaks down and you get lots of loose fibres.
It may be the same case where you are.
Maybe you can find Polycarbonate.



Polycarbonate looks like is gonna be what we use.

I discussed the shade cloth idea with my household, that is a no because the area is to entertain guests and it has to look pretty. So cob wall it is. We have also changed to a vegetarian diet so there won't be a smokehouse. Just the bread oven, burners, and grill, and I had to rework the design a bit, but it will now be a somewhat smaller space. I do plan to add a juice bar with outlets for running an ice shaver, blender, and juicer.

John C Daley wrote:What is a Bent?



In timber framing terminology a bent is a section of framing assembled on the ground and raised.


Why not use shade cloth instead of an earthen wall, fix the shade cloth so it can be rolled up on nice days.



The point is to stop wind not sun, and being adjacent to 5 sources of flame, it has to be fireproof.


If there is a chance hands can touch the stove pipe, it will need insulating.
If you go through the roof and dont want rain coming down the fixture through the roof will need insulation as well.



Did you mean flashing? I already know about that part.


Your comment about the roofing is confusing
translucent ; permitting light to pass through but diffusing it so that persons, objects, etc., on the opposite side are not clearly visible:
Frosted window glass is translucent but not transparent.



I know what translucent means. There is a roofing material, usually fiberglass, that is translucent. That is what I'm looking for. It may no longer be in production, hence my difficulty in locating some.


Unless you think passengers in planes will check out your cooking, I am not sure why he has a preference. it may be to cut back on the heat of the sun.



You answered your own question here.


I often have polycarbone sheets and steel sheets set either 1 plus 1 or 1 clear and 2 steel.
A full polycarbonate roof would be hot and may have too much light.



Indeed, which is why I need the translucent green fiberglass panels they use in California.

Amit Enventres wrote:Cool idea! I would suggest with that much heating going to make sure there's ample air movement possible in hot cooking months. But, I haven't seen the design. As for putting up the structure,  I usually brace the bottom of the support beam either with a metal bracket or it being in the ground/cement. I perfer to also have a person just hold it for extra support too. I then quickly instal stabilizers across the installed beams before anything knocks into it. I then continue with the rest of the structure building piece by piece,  since I need to lift it. The one thing I learned the hard way is you have to factor in the adjacent structure because you can't reach certain things if it is blocked by another immobile structure.

As for corrugated plastic roofing, you can order it in the U.S. I'm not sure exactly what type your after,  but when I was working on a green house I found some stuff online. I hope that helps!



All very good information. Thanks ^_^


Timothy Markus wrote:Sorry to derail, but I don't see a pic, only a thick line at the bottom.



Thanks for letting me know, I fixed it.
So, I have a plan to build an outdoor kitchen. I intend to put up a timber framed roof over an area covering the current back porch and the adjacent section of the backyard. It will have doubled the paved space after I lay pavers. See picture below for current back porch. The cement slab will be covered in terra cotta tiles and edged in majolica tiles. There will be areas for cooking and preserving including: my warming/smoking/steaming cabinet, a 6' wide double chamber cob oven, a BBQ, a smokehouse, and several rocket burners. I have plans also to put in a bar and counters as well as a butcher block. I have estimated the cost at around $2K if I do all the work myself and buy raw materials instead of prefab.

What are some ways to raise a bent on your own without heavy equipment?

Should I raise posts first and joint them in such a manner so that the rest of the parts fit from the top?

For a windbreak I was considering an earthen wall behind the cooking area to block the prevailing wind coming from the west. What would be a good way to protect it from our frequent rains? Is the roof of the outdoor kitchen enough or should I cover it with something like stucco? I wanted to add accent tiles to it on the inside, how should they be attached?

The roofing material is a bit of a pickle. My grandma wants translucent courogated pannels like what are often used in California to let in diffuse light. I can't seem to find any like that in my area. There is only clear and opaque. Should I just alternate the two?

Stove pipes will perforate the roof in two spots. Since it is an uninsulated structure with simple pannel roofing, do I need to use insulated stove pipes?  

John C Daley wrote:Your talk of drunck drivers surprises me, do you have plenty in that area?



It is caution plain and simple.
1 month ago

thomas rubino wrote:Ryan!  That is just awesome!  Congratulation's! Home owning is a great forward step in life.  (Its also a lot of work...) Great investment in your future!
Sounds like some cool plans you have for it !
With being close enough to town for city water are you allowed to have livestock ?  



Yeah, we are about 15 minutes down the road from town. Our new neighbors raise cattle.

Jim Fry wrote:Since you are acquiring limited acreage, I would guess you have nearby neighbors. I would suggest to anyone buying land, to first visit all the neighbors. No matter how attractive a home/land is, with a difficult next door neighbor it will be a trial. Look as hard at your future neighbors place as you look at your possible purchase. Is there junk laying around? "Inappropriate" signs? Are they running a car/mower/tractor repair shop next door, and how much noise do they make? Does their land drain onto your land, and what drains? Do they have a target range in their back yard, so you will be listening to gun fire every weekend? You might even stop by the police department and ask if there have been complaints about your future neighbors. ~~Good luck with your purchase, but try to be realistic. You may be at your new "paradise" for a very long time. Neighbors will be part of it.



The neighbors across the street seemed pretty plesant. No garbage, places look kept up. The other neighbors are a state park and a pasture and the pasture folk's house is over a mile away. We spoke with a fellow from the area and he says they keep to themselves. They said the people across the street were nice and will watch your place when you are away and call you if someone suspicious shows up.
1 month ago
We are buying the farm in Portsmouth Ohio for sure. I am effing ecstaticly elated. Gurtitude awaits!

Here are the attributes and plans:

It has a pond, 2 acres, both city and well water, a 3 bedroom house, two car garage with a storage loft, a small barn, comes with appliances including a new ifrared stove, has a fireplace, persimmon tree, pear trees, and a chestnut tree.

Plans:
The first order of business is to till and ammend a starter garden of 3760 sq ft. The stock fence there is on 3 sides and needs completion. The back porch will be expanded and made into an outdoor kitchen; to include a 6 ft diameter double chamber cob oven. An herb garden in stone or brick raised beds will lay between the house and the street both providing herbs and protection from drunk drivers. A small apple orchard needs planting on one corner of the property. I rather like vibernum bushes so at some point the house will get a facelift via these perfumey shrubs. I have plans also for setting up wood working shop and for eventually raising chickens, goats, and pigs.

1 month ago

T Melville wrote:What kind of temps are you hoping to maintain? How much deviation is tolerable? At 1,100 watts, I think it could heat too fast and overshoot the setpoint. Any idea how many watts it uses at very low setting? My seed dryer is only 60 watts, but easily maintains ~90° F. (Mind you: it's an old lab incubator with a muffin fan added on top. It's well insulated, and only has ~ a cubic foot of volume.)

Maybe you could mitigate (If it IS an issue.) by lowering to minimum wattage, and / or installing a mass between the heat and the rest of the space.

Where would you put the thermostat? Near the top would probably cycle on and off less often, but increase risk of overshooting the setpoint. Closer to the heat source would reduce the risk, but probably cycle often.

I wonder how putting the heat at the top with a fan would work? Looks like you were hoping for simple convection, with no fan, so maybe scratch that idea.



Different temps for different applications. Supposedly the controller is accurate to within 5°F. But I also have an analog thermometer to check the temp so I can troubleshoot it. I just made a skp file with both an electric and charcoal model. I coild shoot it to your email if you wanna see it better.
1 month ago
So I designed one. I have not yet built it, because I have not yet bought the pans and tubs to go in it, so I don't know how big it needs to be. Since building something with one function is stupid, I have designed it to be able to ferment warm ferments, with or without humidity, and the holes top and bottom with flaps(I haven't drawn them) to regulate air flow and hardware cloth grates would convert this cabinet into a vegetable dehydrator. Oh, and if we park it outside, it can be used to smoke bacon and jerky.
1 month ago