Ryder Wooten

Thanks Thomas! Yes an 8” J system with 22’ of pipe inside the mass. I sealed the pipe so I did not do the open chamber at the 180. I had already built the mass when you all brought my attention to this new technique. I will be using that open 180 technique on my next build though for sure. Thanks again for all your support and knowledge!

Phil Stevens wrote:Fear not, Ryder. The smoke and balkiness is exactly what we expect when firing a new RMH with cold, wet mass. As things dry out and warm up it should roar to life and behave like a proper dragon. Keep burning fires, using small and well-seasoned wood, and you should see the trend with every burn.

Thanks Phil!

Alright I’m back. This has been a long project just because I work so much. I have the heater functioning except for 1 issue. When I start the fire it smokes back out of the firebox. I can’t have that happen as it will damage my plants and the whole greenhouse fills up with smoke. I attached a few pix since it wont let me upload videos. The smoke also comes out of the chimney stack. From what I have read and watched online everything says the chimney should have no smoke and only steam will come out of the chimney. So what am I doing wrong? I am burning dried oak mostly. I know my mass is still wet so I am wondering if that has anything to do with the smoke issue. Thanks for any help. I truly hope this works as it is a must for my greenhouse to work properly. Thanks again everyone and I appreciate the community of helpful people!

Is there still a chimney near the barrel?

Thanks Gerry! Thats a great illustration!

thomas rubino wrote:Hi Ryder;
No pictures so I'll try to explain from your picture.

Imagine removing the two 90 degree corner pipes and the cleanout tee.

What you have left are two straight pipes.  If they are different length then make they both the same .

Put a (cob)wall across your mass so both pipes stick thru the (cob) wall.

On the very end of your mass create a cleanout port that faces the two pipes. (With a flashlight you should be able to look through the port and see down either straight pipe).

You will need a ceiling (roof) on your "box"  cement board works well, used metal roofing would also work.

After your "box" has its roof than cover it with cob and rock like the rest of your mass.

Next your chimney question.
After you are thru your plastic roof  the safety reason for insulated pipe is gone.
However it would be best if you finished with insulated pipe to the top.
A happy rocket stove has a warm exhaust stack. They draw much better.

Thomas,
    As I am contemplating your new way with the box I’m wondering what should the size of the box be? So you want to build the box out of cement board on a wooden frame and nail the boards to the frame? Or can I build the cob wall then have the box area just be cinder blocks but put a cement board roof? Sorry for all the questions but you got me thinking! Thanks

Oh ok I think I understand now. I understand what you’re saying about the chimney as well. I thought that was the case to have a warm stack but was tryin to not buy that expensive insulated pipe. I will buy another 18” insulated piece that will give me approximately 30” above the roof height. I know this isn’t high enough according to the 3’ height requirement above roofs. So do I have to buy the 36” insulated pipe or will the second 18” piece suffice? I definitely don’t want to buy the 36” piece because of cost but if it’s mandatory for regulatory compliance I probably should buy that piece. Thanks again for all your help Thomas!

I am getting ready to put the chimney through the greenhouse roof. I cut the hole in the roof but my question is after the 18” insulated pipe goes thru the roof do I have to use another piece of insulated pipe to finish the chimney or can I attach stovepipe to the insulated piece? Thanks

thomas rubino wrote:Hi Ryder;
I would like to make a suggestion before you get much farther along.
At the far end you have a 180 degree turn and a cleanout tee.
I propose that you remove the 180 and the cleanout!!! Surprised???
It has been found that if you build a brick box at that spot.
Run your horizontal pipe in and another out.
Place the cleanout tee so you can access both horizontal pipes to remove ash once a season.

Doing this eliminates a big restriction in your piping and gives a nice ash collection point.

You will not find this in the builders guide. It was innovated after printing.

I don’t understand what you are saying. So take out the 180 and the T and then do what? Thanks for your help!

Is there something online to look at?

Thanks Thomas! You’re the best!!