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s. drone

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since Mar 10, 2018
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Recent posts by s. drone

perhaps they do not do this in you're area..
here in toronto canada they pull the boats out of the water each fall although some people keep theirs in the water with bubblers to keep the water from freezing
you see them with a wood frame with shrink wrapped plastic over them
many of the boats on shore are covered in this plastic as well

it comes in clear

if you could get some off cuts from a local marina that would be ideal

just throwing it out there.. i do not have any practical experience doing this
2 months ago
i know someone who gives their dog cbd for anxiety while they are at work
2 months ago
Mike J
lets say you did go the pumping hot air underground route
from what i gather you want it at least 4 feet below the soil or you will dry out youre soil too quickly
i have heard of several depths
4 feet for more short term heat
an 8 foot one and a 12 foot deep one for heat storage in summer when you dont really need the soil to get so warm

you could possibly make it by digging a hole and lining the bottom with clay
and clay on the sides as you build youre way up then a large bed of gravel/rocks for the air to flow through
then maybe a woven reed mat to add the clay layer to cap it off then build up the soil for growing in
possibly bamboo or something with the segments burnt out to make pipe to get the air from the top of the greenhouse to the gravel heat sink
just a thought ignore if not applicable
2 months ago
i had a narrow window to get a 40' loaded container to my property
barely driveable road
it had to be frozen and i scouted it was good
2 days later when i arrived with the driver there was a lot of snow on the road
we ended up leaving the container barely off the highway (and we got stuck whole other story)

once it was late spring i had the help of a logger who put it on a heavy duty trailer with 3 axles and dragged it in with a wheel skidder

cant say for sure what the grades are but there were definitely some hills and soft sections
2 months ago
right on!
is that evidence of the glacial lake outburst on the side of the hill?
pic 6078
the vertical lines would be from when they made the rail line but the horizontal ones could be from the lake outburst?
2 months ago
ok so i missed the replies while typing a response
so you already know what i covered
for other people reading this.. there is one step i neglected to mention
when putting the chain back on
it is good to pull up on the end of the bar while tightening the nuts
this will help put the bar in the correct position (provided the peg is in the hole and the bar is flat against the saw)

also once you use the saw for the fist time it may come out of adjustment slightly
loosen the nuts enough to tighten/loosen the tension screw
tighten the nuts and see how it runs
2 months ago
changing and or adjusting the chain are the easiest things you can do to maintain a chainsaw
try doing it youreself to save some money
make sure that the little tension peg is in the hole on the bar and make sure the bar is seated flat before tightening completely
you may need to turn the tension screw a little to a loose chain position and once everything is in position
but before the 2 nuts are snugged up you adjust the chain tension
the chain should not hang off the bar.
just right is when you pull on the chain mid way along the bar.. the bottom of the chain links should just barely show
too tight is when you use the saw and without the chain brake on.. the chain comes quickly to a stop when you take your finger off the throttle

that said, a chain can be sharpened many times before it is no longer functional
pretty much until the teeth are almost non existent
most importantly when sharpening a chain is to sharpen each tooth by the same amount to keep the teeth the same size
this will keep youre saw cutting straight
the easiest way to do that is with a grinder wheel made for chainsaw sharpening
at our shop we have 3 each set up with a different size wheel for the different chain gauges
they can be bought at places like (here in canada) princess auto
for a reasonable price... if you want to spend less you can buy a round file and sharpen by hand
same thing though you need to try to keep the teeth the same shape, and maintain the angles of the tooth

after a certain amount of sharpening by machine or by hand and the teeth become less aggressive
there are flat pieces of metal between teeth which determine the cutting depth and you will need to take a flat file and ever so slightly lower each of them
too aggressive of chain is more likely to kick back and may bog down due to biting off more than it can chew so to speak
sometimes a flat file to the bar to remove burrs from the sides may be necessary
there is a tool to file the edge that the chain rides along to keep the flat file(built in) at the correct 90 angle

when sharpening a chain on a grinder it is important to do this in tiny bursts of grinding with pauses in between
this is to keep the tooth from getting too hot and loosing its temper
if it is heated too much the metal will dull much sooner as it has lost its hardness

harder chains like carbide used by emergency personnel are unnecessary unless you plan on cutting through a lot of metal etc in the wood
by dialing in the chain to the type of wood you are cutting you should get good results

i plan to get a diamond chainsaw for rock cutting (maybe)
but these more so sand the material away rather than cut it

anyhow hopefully i stayed on topic enough and that helped!
2 months ago
i grew on a floating mat on a bog once and planned to make chinampas on the margins of a beaver pond
googling chinampas just now i found the most awesome thing which has me all charged up for this project
making a wood frame over the channels of water and growing vines to cover the water area also
it would keep the water temperature cooler too
i was thinking rice in between the raised parts but at least a few of these tunnels of foliage would be a cool place to hang out/harvest on a hot afternoon!
so awesome

guess i will have to make a raft with some plants on it too
i have wanted to do this for a while
although this project might end up on next year's itinerary
2 months ago
i am planning to build something similar and some things i have considered are:
the sun angle is quite low in dec and an insulated N side is a good thing
but by the time it is warm enough to bring plants outside the sun is much higher in the sky
even starting the day ne and ending nw

so maybe have insulation on a roll being rolled up and down nightly for the south facing part
and a temperature controller roll up motor controlling insulation on the top/north facing side/s
or just as the season progresses remove insulation from the top opening up more area above
the roll would have to be inside to operate properly
i might even go triple poly
solar panel and batteries inside structure to be warmer and free of snow
i was also looking to build with fence top rail and hoop bender at first and i still plan to make this style of pit tunnel hoop house
but for the deep winter greenhouse i think wood on a steep slope would be better since it does not transmit the cold as much and water will not condense on it like with the steel pipe

also looking into jean pain compost heating
possibly the pile being in proximity/part of the north berm to further heat the thermal mass

ideally the s facing area will have room below the poly for lots of snow to be able to pile up without the light being blocked

also a solar water heater inside the structure to circulate heated water into youre reservoirs whenever it is warm enough to do so would help

the RMH would be nice too

my plan is to throw everything i possibly can at it and hope it works

2 months ago