Marco Banks wrote:You might start with laying out a single swale on contour with a A-frame, and see how it works with your garden plans. If it were me, I'd dig the first swale down toward the bottom of your hill, and then plant a row of fruit trees below the swale. The water captured by the swale will soak in and provide moisture to the tree roots below. If you like the look, feel and function of that, you can continue up the slope and lay out your next one.
Yes! I was thinking of something like that at first: planting a long line of berry bushes (blackcurrants mainly, but also blueberries and thornless blackberries) at the base of the field, as I prefer them over fruit trees for concerns of their shade later affecting the growth of nearby vegetable patches (...though perhaps I could maintain them small and very well pruned?). But now I shall do a swale in contour, also, which should fixate the soil much better.
As you see in the image I took from Google Earth (I really like this image-attaching thing, everything is explained better with graphic support!), the slope is not continuous, though, but much steeper as you approach the street. It makes something of an obtusangle triangle, but with an inclined base, as if it were a first very steep slope that cuts directly into a much less steeper one. As you see in the first of all my attached images in this thread, I already planted a Leylandii hedge along that steeper slope, thinking of both using it to contain the soil with its roots and charmed by its relatively low price. In consequence, I was thinking also of cutting into the base of that 'first' slope, where the hedges are planted, and making a swale to also be useful as a path, hoping that the Leylandii's roots will hold the slope. And I planned to do this second swale because:
Pearl Sutton wrote:A weird question: how hard is it for you to walk on the slope? I am terracing mine, it slopes a lot like that, but I have health issues, and hard time on slopes, I'd rather go down, then walk level, rather than be sloped when I walk the whole time. Plants will grow fine on a slope, it's more you that is the deciding factor.
Because yes, it's kind of annoying to walk along a slope all the time; particularly when you are carrying heavy or voluminous things from one extent of the terrain to the other. My only concern is whether if I dig this near-the-top-of-the-slope swale, it may eventually produce a landslide. But near that part the soil is more clay-ish, and this gives me some moderate tranquility as to its capacity to hold its position.
Thanks for your compliment on my post, Pearl, by the way!
Dave de Basque wrote:Hi Miguel, from your climate analogue farther to the east!
From the looks of your photos, I would guess that you don't have slopes over 10 or 12 degrees. So I think terracing might be overkill, unless you just really want to do it. Of course, once you break the soil open, you need to worry about erosion and keeping it covered.
I'm a no-dig fan, so I personally would sheet mulch on contour without disturbing the soil. When I sheet mulch on a slope, I make the downhill side much thicker (even though in a year it will flatten out). Also I may drive in a few short stakes on the downhill side if I'm foreseeing any slippage problems. Since it's grass at the moment, your soil is likely to be very bacterially dominated, which is not bad for annual crops, but you might want to work on increasing the presence of beneficial fungi in the soil to balance it out. If you've been lurking for a while, maybe you already know about Dr. Redhawk's Soil Series? There's some fantastic information there.
Hello, Dave, and thanks for all the incredibly valuable resources! I'd like to do the sheet mulching strategy at least in part of the land, but just a couple of hundred square meters of this requires already a massive amount of mulch, and my resources are limited (as even lumbermills want to charge you for giving you their sawdust). Same for the manure idea, since apparently even poo is sold, or if it's not sold then transportation is hard and not provided, which means very expensive third persons, the transport companies, need to be hired. I do plan to bring in manure, of course, but if I mix it with the existing soil I maybe need only half or less than half of what I would need if I wanted to plant directly on it. Still, I shall keep these plans in mind for later stages, as they may very well come in handy if I start to experience difficulties with more conventional methods!
I'm also greatly pleased of having a fellow Spain-based, Cfb climate colleague in here! Maybe I'll hit you up later to get your plant nursery, seed provider and other similar services' information.