Kevin Swanson

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since Mar 10, 2010
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Recent posts by Kevin Swanson

Ebo David wrote:I love Red Green (thanks for the allusion ;-)  

My personal goal would be to predict the behavior of my own modified design, and then measure where appropriate to post validate.  It is likely that I would not go the full monte on validation, but easily 1/4 of the instrumentation can be used in actively manage the greenhouse operations or passive monitoring to tell me that "Houston we have a PROBLEM".



Hi Ebo,

Are you saying that you are going to work to write some greenhouse automation/monitoring software? I'm a developer by trade and I'd be interested in collaborating with you on this.
1 year ago
I've been wanting to build a greenhouse for a number of years and in my mind come to a similar design as yours. First off let me say I'll be watching this thread very closely, I'm excited especially for the arches, I need to make a jig and arches like you... hopefully I can contribute some things too! A few things I thought of when reading your design.

North wall roofing: Use  recycled bill board material. A guy in my area got his for free and roofed his north wall with it.

Glazing: Solawrap is great stuff, it's been used in the EU for a while and recently available in the states. It gets rave reviews and is super durable with an excellent warranty, light diffusion and insulation properties are excellent as well. As soon as I read about it I was sold over poly carbonate and everything else.

North wall windows: I think you original design of overlapping the arches and having the vents be vertical instead of built into the roof is better. Sealing out water and ice is going to be challenging with a vent built into the roof. Additionally if your vents are ever open during a rainstorm you will get water in through your roof which could lead to erosion inside your greenhouse. I've seen this happen to someone with a hoop house greenhouse and north roof vents built into roof of the northwall.





1 year ago
This appears to be a more up to date site that has this calculator: http://www.ecosystems-design.com/climate-battery-calculator.html
1 year ago

Mark Tudor wrote:I have a Wagner that had been sitting in a drawer for a couple years that I pulled out and cleaned off using Sheryl's tips- no self cleaning oven, so I sprayed oven cleaner over it and tossed in a plastic bag to sit for a day. I cleaned that off the next day, wiped off a tiny bit of rust that started after the coating was gone, and then coated it all with the organic, food grade flax oil I bought for this. Wiped it down and tossed into the oven at 450 or so for an hour, then let it cool and repeated 5 more times. After it cooled off the surface was smooth and not tacky at all.

Looked great afterwards, I put some olive oil in the pan and heated it up on low/medium heat (4 of 10 gas heat) and once it heated up I tossed an egg on to cook. It stuck quite a bit, and I saw numerous little bits of coating flaked off. I was using the metal spatula Paul recommended in his article but wasn't scraping hard. After I was done it took some work to clean the surface and a lot more little flakes came off, and almost all of them were around the middle, which is where the flame was sitting when on low.

Not sure if even low heat was enough to soften the surface here, but this was far less effective than the first time I seasoned the pan, which I think was with canola oil around 5 years ago. Not sure if I can scrub the surface down until no more flakes come off, then toss back in the oven to add more coats, or if I need to use the Easy Off again and get it back to bare metal, and then try it again using Alex's idea of heating it to 350 and applying coats that way. I notice the chart shows the smoke point of flax is 225, so aren't we hitting that smoke point anyways if we season at 350? Maybe just not as bad as 450-500?



I had the exact same problem with flax seed oil. I've read somewhere on the internet that flax seed is great for a decorative display seasoning for cast iron, but it flakes off in real world use. When mine flaked off I did as you described(scrape/scrub off the rest of the flax seed that is willing to come off) then season with another oil(canola/vegetable/lard) that doesn't end up flaking like flax seed.
1 year ago
I was treated for chronic lyme disease by a general practitioner who practices chinese medicine. He put me in contact with an herbalist in the VT area (PM me if you want her information, I don't want to abuse the forums by putting and advertisement here.) The herbal supplements got my lyme disease AND chronic mono in complete remission. The last 2 months of the treatment and for 2 months afterwards I suffered from piles. In order to get rid of them I tried drinking tons of water, changing my diet to include more fiber even though it already contained plenty and many creams and suppositories etc etc. I finally worked up to the courage to go to the chinese medicine doctor again and he advised taken a one month course of herbal liver cleanse(not sure if this is a detox), this cleared the piles up and they are GONE!

Now I just need to keep on a good diet and avoid sugar and alcohol to keep it the lyme in remission.
1 year ago
Buff orpingtons go broody and they are a decent sized bird. I usually have 1 or 2 out of 6 total hens go broody.
1 year ago
Dale, do you know of anybody that makes a cordless electric brush saw? One capable of going through 1" saplings?
2 years ago
I'm working on a permaculture design for my property, I'm planning a designed disturbance of removing some trees and using them as firewood and lumber. After that I'd like to plant an instant succession food forest. The book Edible forest gardens tells you to design for the horizon/climax state and then work backwards from there. So if your horizon state is 25 years you draw in all those plants at full maturity and then work the timeline backwards in say 10 or 5 year increments. Does anyone have a design they can share that shows these 5 or 10 year increment states and the climax state? I work best with examples so I was hoping the permies.com hive-mind might have some resources they could share!


If there are no examples, I will end up posting some here of my design .


Thanks
2 years ago

Tracy West wrote:Never tried it.
I have used sulfa dust on woody/pine straw mulched areas when we lived in town.
I have had guineas in several locations and they really cut down on ticks.
Keeping brush piles and long grass cut really helps,too.



Keeping brush piles helps keep ticks down, or are you saying the opposite... that brush piles attract ticks?
2 years ago