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Benjamin Drew

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since Jan 13, 2020
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Recent posts by Benjamin Drew

The one above is for the 36" wide cages.

I starting another clone copy for one with 30"x30" cages. The smaller cages are for the bucks. The larger is for the doe's.

Being that I'm raising them for meat, instead of buying more cages I opted to try a rabbit tractor I saw on YouTube.  It's I still have a little work to do on it. It's mainly for the grow out bunnies.

It will be quite some time before I'm able to breed them, so I may buy some more just to see how they fare in the grow out tractor.

My initial ones I want caged for further protection.
1 year ago
I just made this from imagination. What came about unexpectedly as an idea was to leave the metal sides removable for better ventilation during the day when it's hot. The I initial plan was just to fasten them in.

1 year ago
I was actually thinking about using quart mason jars. Of course I wouldn't fill them high enough to break in the freezer.

I figured there's nothing on a mason jar to chew. They're cheap, abundant and I can just cycle the same ones.
1 year ago

Lorinne Anderson wrote:Good for you to think about predator protection BEFORE predation!  Even rats will eat rabbits through that wire.  Sounds like you have some old metal roofing, perfect!  Build a fence AROUND the rabbit hutches, at least two sheets high, posts on the inside, and if possible, trench them down a foot or so.  If you don't have enough, keep your eyes on the local free site, contact local roofers, put the word out to anyone taking down a metal barn or roof...  5-6 feet of height will deter almost all terrestrial predators.  

The electric chicken mesh will also work - and may also be used in conjunction with the metal roofing, but, the key here is making sure there is no way over, under, or around whatever your defenses are.

Actually, the setup is will more than likely be the cages snug fit into the little structure I'm building. The structure will be on concrete under my vehicle awning right against the house. All sides will be protected with that sheet metal and the front will have the 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch mesh. The cages were only 16 inches high. I might extend that a bit further upward but I'm not sure yet. I'll upload a photo when it's done. :)
1 year ago
I just went behind the house and I have available to me a whole lot of lightly corrugated galvanized metal. Looks to be 2 1/2 by 8 feet. I think I can use that in the structure.

I can take the 19 guage 1/2 inch and use for the front of the cages. I'm stuck with the cages because some of that hardware cloth is getting very difficult to find.
1 year ago
Okay, getting into rabbits. I'm thus far getting 5 young California rabbits for meat production.

The set up is rather simple that I'm getting ready to build.

Basically using 2x4's as the stilts, metal roof, metal waste sliders on the bottom of each row. I bought 36x30 cages from rural king and would basically be intigratling them with this frame as all one unit. I'm thinking the lower cages may be 2 to 3 feet off the ground.

Problem is, the hardware cloth that came with the cages for the sides and top is 1"x2". I'm thinking that's enough of an opening for a weasel to get in or a raccoon to get an arm in and do some damage.

Would a cloth electric chicken fence work for me?

Any ideas on how to further protect them?

It just bugs me to no end to buy completed cages and wrap additional hardware cloth over the existing sides and top.

Or maybe I'm just being to paranoid.

We have coons, possums, house cats and foxes in our area and our yard. I don't know about weasels.
1 year ago

John F Dean wrote:You seem to be making the assumption that an irregularity in the sealing compound will prevent a seal.  You may be correct. My experience has been different. I have even reused lids with success.  My guideline has been is that if the lid seals, then it is good.  I am still alive after around 40 years of pressure canning. Your mileage may vary.

I'm talking about extreme irregularities in the the sealing compound. I only found four or five out of around 800 where the sealing compound was extremely uneven.

I had another jar not seal because the sealing compound was too thin.

I want my jars sealed right the first time, hence I noticed a pattern in what was causing seal patterns.

By all means if you want to just use the lids then go for it.

I figure just inspect the lids and take back the ones that are scratched on the inner surface and have extreme bubble craters and uneven sealing compound.
1 year ago
I just canned up around 9 pounds of ground breakfast  sausage and there's a lot of grease.

I filtered it and came up with 32 ounces of grease!

I put it in the fridge for now.

My question  is, how long will it last?
Is it the same as saving bacon grease?

I was going to use it in cornbread recipes and butter replacement for cooking.
1 year ago
You know, I think my reply was quite snobbish towards the Country Living Grain Mill.

I apologize...

I overlooked some factors.

I don't have any experience with either mill. But I intend to make full use of one so that's the reason I went with the Grain Maker. I will be doing nut butters and such.

I believe the Country Living Grain Mill is a great option for a higher end hand crank mill. The positive is, they don't force you into buying a package deal if all you're concerned about is getting a no frills Grain Mill. They don't charge for shipping and in some cases may not even charge taxes (From what I know when I went through the checkout process just to se see if they did).

I believe it is quality based on my findings. It's definitely a good deal if you don't make nut butters and purchase the extra auger and power bar for leverage. So arpund 530 bucks vs 725 bucks, that's a huge price difference if you habe no interest in making nut butters.
1 year ago
When I said look up "Grain Mill 99", I meant "Grain Maker 99"!

Sorry, I get that mixed up. Where ever I said grain mill 99 I meant grain maker 99.
1 year ago