Burt Gilder

This is an awesome idea and I love your thinking.  I have installed a similar system that has been in use for several years now.  It works great - but you have a couple of hurdles to cross first.

First - you need pressure.  Pressure to take your water input to the top of your tank (think: like a traditional water heater) this cold water is piped inside the tank depsiting the cold water near the bottom of the inside of the tank - again, like a traditional water heater does.  I use a traditional water heater as my tank.

Typical water pressure inside a home is 40-60 lbs.  This pressure you have provided will then allow you to fill your tub on the top floor.  Electricity will be needed to provide the pressure in the system you have described.  

Second - you will need a cold water return coming from the BOTTOM of your tank and into the water jacket at the stove.  Here the water is heated and then it will thermosiphon up to an intake near the TOP of your tank.  As the hot water enters the top of the tank, cold water at the bottom of the tank will circulate down to the stoves water jacket to be heated and sent back up.

Other things you should consider:

Pressure relief valves.  One near the hot water exit from the water jacket and one near the top of the tank.  THESE ARE NECESSARY!!  You have created a steam bomb.  Extreme pressure will build in this closed system.  If there is no relief and you burn enough fire without using enough of the water - It will blow up in a catastophic manner.  NO JOKE.

A second water tank.  This will help in taking up the extra hot water created and put less stress on the system.  Plus, it will be bonus to have extra hot water stored.

Once your system in in place and working - you cannot simply not use it any more.  There must always be water in the jacket at the stove or it will burn up.  Also - and most importantly - the water must always be circulating and being used or you will create the bomb that I mentioned earlier.

This link may be helpful in getting what your looking for:  http://inthewilderness.net/2017/01/27/homestead-hot-water-thermosiphon-loop/

Mom

Are these herbs covered in you book?  If not, where could one get a readable copy of the herbs you discuss in the podcast?  I'm more of a hands on fella - not an ears on fella...

Seth Marshall wrote:

Tim Barlow wrote:Valiant grapes were developed and designed to withstand zone 2 conditions ....

Is there a reason Altitude matters considering this plant can withstand Zone 2 winters and I'm at worst Zone 3? (The US agriculture map says I'm 5B but that can't be right given my altitude).

I have found that USDA zone maps be full of bull scat when it comes to specific and remote climates.  They have me pigeon holed as a zone 3b.  I'll tell you until the day I die that my zone is a 2b at least.  They do not seem to care if less that 10k people live in them...  Fuck 'em.  You and I both know our respective climates without the input of some goob in DC anyway.

I have no idea as to the altitude compatibility of the Valiant grapes.  I am at 6300' so it fits within the range you were directed.  Go as close to the source for the variant as you can for your information.  I believe it was the University of South Dakota or SDU... not sure which.

Out of 3 vines - mine produced several clusters in the first year.  I was told not to expect any until the 2nd year at least.

Tasty little boogers.  Not too fond of the seeds though...

Valiant grapes were developed and designed to withstand zone 2 conditions (i think... zone 3 for sure at least.) Any way, I planted some in my greenhouse last year and they thrived in the warmer days.  Time will tell if they make it through this winter or not.

Valiant grapes are probably not the best for wine - if that is your end desire.  Mostly good for delicious jams and jellies.  I doubt you will find any non-hybrid variety that will survive your zone 3.  Maybe?  I could be wrong - but I could not find any such variety - as grapes do much better in warmer climates.

I have no experience at all with the Country Living Mill - but I will back up your opinion on the Grain Maker 99.

A very strong and well built unit.  I purchased the bicycle attachment and use it to mill corn, barley and wheat for homemade chicken feed.  It will probably take a while to justify the cost of the mill for this use though... It was otherwise just sitting in the basement unused - so, what the heck.  I really enjoy mine.  couldn't be more pleased.

It is just about the right amount of exercise to ride it every other day to make the chicken feed.  Kinda fun!

Mike Haasl wrote:Great find!

One tip...  If you have multiple sets of planer blades, as they get nicks from nails/debris, interchange them for another run.

1st use blades A1 and A2
then use B1 and B2
then use A1 and B2 since their nicks probably don't line up
Then A2 and B1 for the same reason

^^^  This is excellent advice.  Reclaimed wood will dull your planer blades in a fraction of the time as new wood.  Not just from the dirt and nails, but minerals also get absorbed into the wood as it ages.  Depending on the age it can get very abrasive.  Try to avoid letting your blades get too dull.  I have had fires start in my dust collector tubes... don't do that.

Also, if you can scan it with a metal detector first, you will do yourself and your blades a huge favor.  

Jeanie Ray wrote:...you didn't have to waste a bunch of money.

It's not a waste. You'll still have this option:

Find a mentor. Someone who has already been down the road and is willing to hold your hand and answer your questions along the way.  Hopefully you can get them to come and check out your facilities and make recommendations for improvement.  Yes, your questions will be stupid - but mistakes made by not asking them will be stupider.  

Get yourself cow already.  They are awesome!