Kallista Rochelle

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since Jan 29, 2021
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Recent posts by Kallista Rochelle

Four years after the fact... I happened across a Youtube video that mentioned carbonized rice hull being used as underfloor insulation in a Japanese house build, so it sent me down this rabbit hole.  I'm in Texas, myself, so quite different climate conditions, but I'm wondering if you could provide any pointers or pros/cons from your own experience using it.  Looking for further information about using either rice hulls or carbonized rice hulls as insulation, as a DIYer, this thread was the only real lead I could find.

How did your loose fill rice hull insulation end up working out? Or the ricecrete? Did you use straight hulls or carbonize the hulls for either usage?  Did you add borax, or have any trouble with insects inhabiting the rice hulls? How was the performance of the insulation, overall? Mold problems?

Just hoping for some updates on this technique, if you happen to see it!
Thanks.

3 months ago
I just got an email claiming I'm at a lower level than my pledge. I signed into Kickstarter to double-check, and my pledge is set to the correct level ($65 + shipping) and the pledge label is correct for that level, so I'm a bit frustrated and very sure I didn't accidentally just change the dollar amount and not the pledge. Why am I getting emails saying I'm at a $25 level?
3 years ago
Thank you to those who have responded--Kevyn, you've definitely given me a lot of food for thought.  Howard, I'm about an hour, hour and a half from Austin and San Antonio both. Little bit west of Fredericksburg.

(Also, now that I double check on a few different sites, some sites tell me the area we're located in is 8a, others say 8b.  I suppose I should estimate 8a for safety's sake, though that hard freeze we had pretty much killed everything down to zone 6-hardy plants!)

I had only heard of moringa in passing before, usually attached to 'miracle pill, will solve all your ills, only 4 easy payments of--' sorts of ads, but it sounds like a good thing to at least experiment with growing.  Okra, eggplant, and sweet potato are all things I plan to put in, though I was a little concerned about how sweet potato would react to the layer of limestone under the layer of topsoil, or if I'd need to build everything up into raised beds first.  At an initial glance, I thought the soil on our property looked fantastic compared to most of what's in this area... it was black, full of organic material and worms, and moderately moist every time we checked. There's even hints of moss growing in spots (and I can count on the fingers of one hand the places in this area I've seen moss grow).  It was only when I started digging to put in a mountain laurel that I got down 6-8 inches and hit rocks and more rocks... if nothing else, we can probably build some nice rock walls over the next 5 years, one stone at a time.

I've had decently good luck in Fredericksburg proper with brassicas in the winter... at least until some sort of stink-bug infestation hit and decimated the beds.  I'm hoping to experiment more with trap crops and interplanting pest deterrent crops once we're out on our own property.  I've heard amaranth can serve as such a trap, for cucumber beetles in the summer, at least... though I want to harvest the amaranth seeds as well.  Does anyone know if planting dwarf/ornamental relatives of amaranth like celosia around the edges will lure cucumber beetles the same way, and help keep them off the taller seed-producing types?  Then buckwheat or crimson clover in the winter, to help with the stinkbug brassica pests.  I don't really have any experience with trap crops so I'm not sure how thoroughly they need to form a 'border' around the intended crop area, or if they'll just lure the pests over into the crop I'm trying to protect.
3 years ago
Amazing! Thank you so much for the opportunity, I hope to put it to excellent use!
3 years ago
Let's see if I can get this post posted before we lose power/internet again!

So, I'm in Central Texas, zone 8b.  We recently purchased a little over 4 acres of very gently sloping lightly forested property here, with a layer of black soil over a thick layer of calcium carbonate.  The existing vegetation is mostly oak (either live oak or post oak, I forget which), low scrub they call shin oak, a few prickly pears and yucca plants, and one or two small bushes I think are a juniper variety (but they call them cedar here).  Most of the plot has light to moderate tree cover, and the western-most end is mostly grasses.

We haven't been able to do any real soil testing yet, but from the climate zone and the existing vegetation, would anyone have suggestions for food crop/tree guilds that ought to do reasonably well in an area like this?  We'd like to experiment with some Mediterranean plants such as olives and pomegranates, perhaps figs and grapes, all of which theoretically can be grown around here.  We also have some flowering trees planned for ornamentation and pollinator-attraction, such as redbuds, crapemyrtle, and smoketree.  We'd love to grow a walnut or two, maybe black or honey locust, pistachio or pecan, as well as apples, peaches, pears, cherries, plums... if we can find varieties that tolerate our heat and potential summer drought, or if we can rig up a gray-water irrigation system that will support them.

For shrub-height plants, rosemary grows like wild here, kumquats may or may not survive the winters, and I'm originally from the PNW and I love blackberries, but I'm most familiar with them as highly invasive pests that will take everything over, so I'm not sure how easy to control they are in the drier, hotter climate here.  For smaller plants, sweet potatoes, chickpeas and several varieties of beans, tomatoes, potatoes, kale, mustard, broccoli, lettuces, onions, etc... as well as a lot of cooking herbs such as mint, basil, lemongrass, ginger & turmeric, garlic, thyme, and so on.  I'd even love to incorporate a little greenhouse for some more tropical trees such as avocado and some other citrus, later on.

How does one begin to weigh which fruit/nut/flowering trees will balance out well with which shrubs and which groundcover, in guilds? We've got to start small, but we definitely don't want to haphazardly pull out trees without having a very clear plan for replacing them with more productive sorts, as the shade is important to us and helps keep the ground cooler and moister, and the more food crops we can get planted quickly, the less we have to rely on long trips to the nearest grocery store for produce, year round.  

I hardly know where to start with some of this, or which vegetables require so much sun that they won't function in a food-forest setting, versus which ones will actually appreciate the extra summer shade. Leafy greens maybe? Or will the ground still be too hot at that time of year to get decent results?

Anyone have a good roadmap for starting out from bare, undeveloped land in this sort of climate? Most of what I see online in my own searches seems to be geared toward either more northern climes or tropical food-forests.
3 years ago
Exciting news! I hope you don't mind me watching this thread for answers, too--I'm also in Texas Hill Country (Harper), with just over 4 acres recently purchased that I'm hoping to get a food forest started on as time and funding allow.  

Olive trees sound like a fantastic idea, and I've also considered a pomegranate or two.  I've been worried how to gradually swap out some of our oak and scrub oak for fruit/nut trees and berry bushes without losing excessive tree cover, but finding cover crops/nitrogen fixers that grow well in this climate has been one of my challenges, as well.  In a community garden space, I had decent luck with cowpeas growing even when no one had time to check on them, water them, or baby them along.  In the same community garden project, I'd started a hugelbed to put some dead wood and brush to use, which was starting off strong with mustard and crimson clover and some other sprouts coming up all over it until some neighborhood kids used it for a 'king of the hill' game and tore the whole thing apart, setting it all back a year...  
3 years ago