Bryant RedHawk wrote:
You can also use fungi infused wood chips for mulch to prevent moisture loss and the fungi will be available to work on the clay and organic materials.
Chris Kott wrote:It sounds to me like you might want to add some gypsum grit to your clay.
Perhaps choose out a section that becomes dessicated first, and when this happens, add gypsum grit to the top so that it falls into the cracks. You can also fork it in.
If, as I suspect, there is a calcium deficiency, that will be the cause of your cement-when-dry clay soil, and the gypsum will fix that without unduly affecting your pH.
Borislav Iliev wrote:Hello!
My experience with grafted trees that people sell here is really negative, they grow really slowly, they invest too much into fruit very early and that cost them a lot, also they grow in really strange shapes, like they dont know what they are doing, I water regularly and have put some effort in improving the soil, but these trees kind of dont appreciate all that.
On a contrary I have trees that I have started from a seed or I have collected small plants under some trees, at first I grow them in containers and then I plant them when they are tall enough(like above 60 cm) to be able to survive the shading of other plants. They grow much better and know exactly what they are doing!
Sure some may not end up that edible, but I have planted many and I will remove some later, its not that big of a problem since they cost me almost nothing.
Maybe you can try planting some of the nut trees directly where you need them and see what happens, it will cost you almost nothing in money and labor, and it will be a good experiment.
Try different species and varieties and strategies, sometimes it is really amazing how nature works in a very different ways than what we imagine in our heads, so stay open minded for all options.
wayne fajkus wrote:I doubt a dual system is allowed because of the liability of rain water getting into the municipal water supply. When i looked at getting city water, they wanted my well completely disconnected from the house. Valves and backflow preventers wasn't good enough.
If this is your case, plumb the rainwater in and use at as the only source. In a drought, use the city water to fill the tank. A spigot on a separate line that doesnt connect directly to rain lines.
wayne fajkus wrote:I have used above ground plastic tanks and they were fine. I'm sure the one you posted will do fine. I would be concerned about how to get sediment out of it overtime. I don't use things that pull water out from the middle. I take it out of the bottom. Whatever sediment gets in, i'd rather deal with it now and pull it and filter it out.
Mark Kissinger wrote:
Here are some techniques you might try using livestock and pasture management. The primary takeaway is that the soil is always covered in vegetation. There is no need to roto-till or plow the soil, which disturbs the necessary soil microbes and exposes the soil to the drying influences of the air and sun. The number of animals used is based on the acreage available and the optimum number and type of animals used to perform the grazing operations. Depending on the area involved, you may only need a couple or a single grazing animal to keep your pasture mowed. The timing of the access of the animal is determined by the growth cycle of the forage plants available. In essence, there are no weeds, especially where goats are involved. other livestock animals are more fussy about what they will eat. Hope these will help. With a little further searching, you can find other information that will prove useful.