Priscila Ferreira

Eric Hanson wrote:Does anyone know of any foods, herbs, etc. ANYTHING that can help restless leg syndrome?

As it stands I do have a prescription to help RLS, but it is only so-so and is intended to use at night.  On occasion I have used it during the day with mixed results (it does not make me tired).  I can get up and move around, but immediately upon sitting down my legs want to absolutely crawl.  Right now my legs have a borderline awful crawling feeling in them bad enough that it is hard to concentrate.

I have found that compression garments do provide some measure of relief and have found a couple of brands of compression pants that provide considerable compression on my legs without being tight, especially in the waist.  I wear them commonly in under regular pants and typically they do provide a good deal of comfort/relief without medication—a real plus.

But today NOTHING seems to help.  Not compression, not my regular prescription, not muscle relaxers, not even exercise.  Does anyone else have this malady and have any useful way to alleviate the symptoms?

Thanks in advance,

Eric  

Hexahydrated magnesium. It's a white powder you can get at the drugstore or online. One small spoon (half a teaspoon) mixed into a glass of water, 3 times a day. Do this when you have access to a bathroom because the first few days you will be detoxing from the bottom. It's miraculous! But it does taste like butt. I mix my magnesium with ascorbic acid (vit C, a small spoon, like a tea spoon) and it helps dull down the taste.
I promise you this is the solution! And you should take this forever.

r ranson wrote:I've put my brain to the problem all day and I can't figure out how I'll sew on the collar

While flat-lining the cloak

and extending the front edge out several inches.

There's got to be a way, because coat collars don't always go right to the edge.  I just can't figure it out.  yet.  

But for now, I'm going to go have a panic attack before trying to cut into this cloth.  

.



This may be a good example!

F.R. McNeil wrote:
Additionally, I typically think of cloaks having a hood, while capes rarely do.

Personally I'm a huge fan of cloaks, especially with a hooded option. I'm an even bigger fan of cloaks that have openings in the side seams so you can stick your arms out and work without making your whole body cold! Bonus: you can use a cloak as a blanket because it is full-length

To touch on the question other folks had about why cloaks aren't largely worn anymore: I believe the yardage involved in making a cloak could be one reason (that full length means at least 2 yards), but mostly I imagine it has to do with the efficiency of keeping the body warm. While a cape or cloak is much cooler looking (at least in my opinion), a closer fitting garment will keep the heat closer to your body, and requires less energy to warm the space around your body (vs warming the whole area under the cloak/cape). Jackets typically will have close-fitting cuffs and a belt or waistband to keep warmth in very efficiently.

All that said, I do still feel that cloaks, capes, and capelets do have good potential for warming and functionality if constructed properly. You really just have to make sure the design isn't going to constantly fly open on you and let out your warmth!

/costuming rambles

THIS!! ♥♥

John C Daley wrote:I would proceed in the manner that does not stop for missing parts, and change the design.
Do you have frost there that could freeze the pipes?
Can you run the pipes underneath and come up the walls on the outside where you actually need the water, then you will not have a chance of damaged pipes inside?

The pipes need to run inside the structure as much as possible dues to frost and also security. The less is exposed, the less that can be stoles.
The pipes will run inside, I was thinking initially on the floor, but now will move them into the ceiling. I talked with the hardware store guy and he said the pressure will be the same, so I can move along the floors for now!

I prefer a cloak because it would hug more of me.
I just discovered capetember, I'm turning it into CLOAKtember

John C Daley wrote:Maybe submit some photos of progress so people can see advancement of the project.

The only progress we can advance is the flooring, installing XPS and the cement-wood boards. Without replacement materials, we can't lay the pipe or wire the house before we close up the walls.
It's a conundrum, isn't it?
We already have the replacement generator spoken for (we got it with a good discount), but it will still take some time to arrive... and of course (!!!) we won't be leaving it at the site ever again, so we need to secure transport for it.
A neighbour agreed to lend us a small trailer he had laying around so that we can bring it to and from... This can take up to 3 weeks to be sorted out.

We already laid some of the underflooring, I'll upload a pic. I'm sorry for the quality/darkness, it's a prinscreen of a video (our powerbank went out, the lightring went out)
Tomorrow we'll be going round to work some more!

BTW, we can lay the pipping bringing water INTO the house nested on the XPS below the cement-wood boards (and the floor tiling) OR we can run it through the ceiling (more easily accessible in the future and will have more insulation (rockwool and XPS, covered by drywall). I'm leaning towards the ceiling, that will mean we can lay the floor immediately and raise up the walls.
What does everyone think? Floor or ceiling?

Thanks!!

How can I bump this post for more views?
We still need a lot of help to be able to get out of this hole...
Thank you for any input!

John C Daley wrote:
What is "Water will come from a "ballerina"" please?

A ballerina is a water heater that runs on wood and I suppose there is a coil inside it.

John C Daley wrote:DECK ON CONTAINER TOP
Particularly if you cut holes in the container.
(...)
Then any deck can be laid between the new beam and the end on a set of rails running the length of the proposed deck.
Another set of posts and the beam could be installed at the point the two containers meet also, coming from either the existing foundation or a new one.

Holes for windows/doors will be reinforced with  steel frames because that was a concern of mine, too, structural stability.
these frames are 8cm by 4cm (a little over 3" by almost 2" rectangular pipe)
then the windows will fit into them, and the "plate" that comes out of the hole will be the shutter with an appropriate steel reinforcement frame on side hinges.

On the inside of the containers we welded the same pipes/beams to keep the walls from caving in and the roof from sagging.
This reinforcement was just in the lower container, the upper one won't have any extra weight on its roof (just an occasional check-up)

I understand the deck suggestion idea, but how do I keep water from seeping under the deck and accumulating on the roof? I know Corten is a special kind of steel when it comes to rust, but still. I'm a little concerned.

John C Daley wrote:DECK ON CONTAINER TOP

how to coat the outside of the containers

Some important questions;
- what climate are you in?
- how hot does it get?
- will you fry in the containers in summer?
ALSO, WILL YOU HAVE ;
- solar electric panels
- solar hot water panels
- a need to insulated the containers

Our climate gets very hot in the summer and freezing in the winter, although I believe we have a microclimate on our land, as this summer we were roasting at our place and when we went to the land it was more bearable. In the winter time it was the same, much more bearable cold there than at home. (we live close by)

I wouldn't say we'd fry, but it gets very hot inside the containers. We're thermally insulating with expanding foam, rockwool, roofmate, floormate and drywall. As we're working inside the lower container, we do break a sweat from the stuffiness of the air. we haven't experienced winter in there yet.

We will have solar, yes. Water will come from a "ballerina", heated by wood and as an alternative, a gas fuelled water-heater.

the containers will be insulated from the inside, but we want to make the outside more discrete (and weather protected) and blend them into the environment and be able to lean onto them in the summer and not get scalded :))

Thank you for all suggestions and ideas.

John F Dean wrote:There are other options for the deck, such as respecting the weight bearing points of the lower structure.  However, I would use posts independent of the lower structure to support the deck.  

Do you mean posts laying down on top of the container to make like a wooden deck?