Imogen Skye

I just did this last week to a pair of linen pants I love. I tend to wear through the edges of hems on my pants- even though they are the correct length- because they sit differently on me depending on the day or what I'm doing, and often enough they must be dragging. So, I twice-turn the hems and sew them in place, effectively making them doubled and very strong.

The other possibility when I have made my own, or if I happen to have an appropriate fabric, is to add a cuff to the bottom by adding it like blanket-binding edging to the raw edge of the pant legs. I zigzag the raw edge to stop fraying and to give it strength to hold the doubled fabric cuff. This way, when it inevitably does wear through, I can replace it and the pants are as good as new. If the new cuff didn't sit flat (I use linen and it always does), then I would just double-stitch it top and bottom of cuff.

I also use a lot of drawstrings at the waist, and these wear through the top of the waist casing if allowed to thread through without reinforcing it. I do this by adding a running stitch along the top of the waist casing so that the drawstring is pushing against that and not the natural fold of the fabric. You could make a waist casing the same as the blanket-binding leg-cuff too, although I have never needed to do this.

These are all quick-fixes/reinforcements and worth it to me to keep a good pair of pants in service. The linen pants I fixed this way recently are about 10 years old and have a beautiful drape and look great still! I wore them all the time in the first few years I had them, being my only drawstrings at the time, and loving the flexibility of that throughout my day with small children and homesteading chores.

HI all,

I wish to amend my previous reply regarding the beautiful Japanese Sashiko. I had learned this as an embroidery technique from seeing and watching people who called it Sashiko. So that's what I've been calling what I've done with my garments to lengthen their useful life. I just learned that what I am doing is NOT SASHIKO! It is called "Boro" and it differs from Sashiko in that it is deliberately a mending stitch technique, and not the (sometimes sacred) cultural practice of Sashiko. The two are similar, but different in intent and usually also result. Sashiko is typically made using indigo blue fabrics patched together to make a new garment from old ones that are no longer in use. It is an expression of the philosophy of Wabi-Sabi, and similar to the practice of mending broken ceramics with gold and continuing to use them, to appreciate the beauty in imperfection, and to respect the life of the object and everyone who has interacted with it. I encourage anyone interested to look up Sashiko and Boro online to see them. Sashiko is NOT "shabby-chic!" It is just beautiful. Boro is shabby-chic and more intended for my purposes.

Like Sashiko, Boro is a Japanese running stitch embroidery technique using repeated geometric patterns and/or parallel lines through fabric that is worn, either just on its own with the embroidery reinforcing it, or by adding pieces of patching fabric over or under the worn section, and attaching the patches with the running stitch patterns. Often the edges of the patches are left raw and fraying. Any type of fabric can be used to patch, to make it contrasting, or to make it match well. The repeated patterns in Sashiko may be more complex than in Boro. Boro is more practical in nature and Sashiko is philosophical and sometimes sacred.

Sashiko, being a practice of Wabi-Sabi, requires the use of more precious materials that are chosen specifically for this practice, so silk embroidery floss instead of cotton, for instance. It elevates the imperfect rather than makes do, such as in Boro. In Boro, cotton floss or anything you have on hand can be used. In Sashiko, the final garment is made from pieces of previous precious garments or cloth also, so the whole finished piece is very special and appreciated in a very different way than mending my base layers with any suitable patch fabric I have, to be used in the garden.

I apologise for my mistake, and thank you for asking because I would not have discovered my error otherwise!

As for cuffs, I'm not sure what's best. In the past, I have carefully cut the wrist areas off and added the cuffs of a shirt or sweater whose cuffs were still good. I have also turned them inwards and sewed them in place, but that only worked when the sleeves were long enough, which for me is very rare.

I definitely use Boro for knit base-layer underarm reinforcement. It works very well in that spot because it follows the shape of the garment without adding bulk that chafes with movement- way better than a patch! And if I have any, I use the same fibre and weight of yarn instead of embroidery floss- colour doesn't matter, whatever I have. It's similar to plain darning, really, only nicer and without the weaving aspect, just straight running stitches.

Good discussion! My preference is linen for comfort, but heavy duty twill weave pants in cotton or linen for heavy outdoor work. I haven't worn through a pair of carharts I've been wearing since 2015, though I only wear them when doing heavy work. In fact, there is no wear on them at all, just stains. They are so heavy though, that if I wore them every day, my skin would wear instead, so there's that problem. They are not lined, which would help with that for sure.

With linen clothing, I use heavy woven fabric, and I always sew in a grosgrain or twill tape along every seam, sewing on either side of each seam (so it looks like it has three seams everywhere). If I don't do this, the seat seam and backs of shoulders seams will slowly pull apart and be irreparable because the threads are pulled away from the seam on either side. I have several pairs of pants that have lasted me years because of this prevention. I have done this with medium-weight cotton too, but I never find the effort worthwhile with cotton; its just too flimsy overall, and linen has all the attributes I would like in a cotton anyway. Long fibre linen is obviously a much more durable fabric, but I have been able to wear brushed linen for many years too, and it is much more comfortable at the joints.

I also never use elastics with linen, but instead, because I need to adjust the waist-size for different activities (ones requiring being bent or crouched for long periods, for instance), I use a long piece of twill tape as a front closure tie. I use the cross-over cinch style with two exit holes so I can adjust quickly on-site as needed and my pants don't fall down.

With my children, I used to sew on stylish woven linen knees and reinforce seat seams when we lived with silt absolutely everywhere (Yukon) that sanded through their pants and shorts, but they're older now and we moved.

I love wool for heavy socks and sweaters, but I can't seem to withstand the weight of durable wool clothing, so I wear my light-weight knit merino cardigans until they are literally threadbare and falling off like a shedding muskox. I have lengthened the life of merino base layers using traditional Japanese Sashiko, which I love and highly recommend for clothing repairs- very effective and looks lovely if you enjoy the [shabby-chic] aesthetic.

arianna higgins wrote:
As a female I always find it odd that men think this way. The majority of girls and women, particularly younger/20somethings I've known reply based merely on the guy's looks (how hot he is and how well dressed, the latter being less important to a baseline otherwise it's no) and social skills. Hot dudes can be creepy, sure; but if he doesn't seem creepy and is good looking or even above average then it's a yes. It certainly was for me and I was one turning heads in Manhattan nightclubs in the 90s and 00s, it's a different era but our genetic imperatives haven't changed..Nothing bad ever happened to me and I have mostly good memories- so my instincts/observations here must be correct.

Males commonly focus obsessively on this weird capitalism propaganda of money/status/power (which afford opportunities i.e. TOLERANCE, not DESIRE), ignoring their looks to a great fault- but a good portion of women including myself have avoided the fratboy/businessman our whole lives and want attractive tall men who hit the gym a lot (and can quote Thomas Hardy ). Maybe I'm the only bohemian rebel/punk left? I just know my hot, broke, punk, brilliant painter makes me happy in my 40s!!!

I mean it's not THAT hard, guys...my advice for young or single dudes is 1. hit the gym 2. take care of your skin here in Florida 3. hit the gym and 4. hit the gym.

Young men today may be confused but (MENTALLY HEALTHY) quality women are not looking for the Jordan Petersons and Gavin McInneses of the world, they are avoiding them ACTIVELY. Like targeting them a mile away and rooting them out. Women are looking for good stable partners who are going to be attractive and strong physically for the duration. Period. Anything else is manipulative, self-serving pathology or capitalist propaganda.

I find this all very disheartening. It's always been important to me that I am attracted to a man to be with him, but whether or not he is conventionally handsome or "hot" has not mattered to me even a tiny bit. I'm much more inclined to enjoy the looks of a brutish-looking sort of guy with working hands and working muscles, not someone who has "hit the gym." Probably at least partially an unpopular opinion, but I find gym fitness to be one of two things: an acceptable- though not optimal- way to make sure the mechanics don't go bad before they're due, and; vanity. There are many who prefer the "beauty and the beast" dynamic more than the "power couple" or "beautiful duo," else such an archetype wouldn't exist. It's not a pathological inclination or preference. How much money he makes, also not important at this point in my life since my children are mostly raised, though earlier it mattered a lot because I had small children who needed stable, adequate provision. In any case, character has always been the make-or-break for me. [I was tricked though, so all of this is only as good as your "picker," and mine didn't develop properly.]

And social skills.... Really? Like doesn't let stew dribble off his beard while eating in public and thanks the waiter, or social skills like has an eloquent manner when speaking, or some such thing? Doesn't a good person do well enough just by being a good person? It's one thing to me to be concerned with social skills in a child- which I am- but an adult man? Is there some job he'll be required to do for you? I'm just asking because I've never even considered this. An ability to do what needs doing and interact with the people he needs to get things done is adequate to me. I'm curious about how you select for social skills. And applied to what/whom?

As for Jordan Peterson (I don't know who the other man is), he has been married for many decades and presumably has offered his family a stable longterm commitment and ample provision, and as far as I can tell, there are lots of women who find intelligence, ambition, and moral conviction very attractive. I don't think he would have had a hard time finding a wife even if he hadn't married a woman he met as a girl at 4 yrs old. As for all the women avoiding such men actively, well, if that's true and not just a projection of your personal taste, perhaps there is hope for a woman like me to find someone decent and aware who "hits" character development instead of the gym.

I've never dated, though I was married and have children I'm raising solo that came from the marriage. I think as I've lived, the list of qualities I've developed has veered even further from what would always have been at least a very strange "profile," when I was younger. My life has actually happened all these years, and I honestly can't imagine what man would ever look further than only a few descriptors at first glance. So I don't bother. If I ever meet someone to be with who would want to be with me I'm sure it would have to be in-person, but nobody leaves their homes here and the last two+ years have placed me firmly into yet another small, unpopular box. I always say to my children that nobody needs everyone to like them, only a few that really get them. And for marriage, only one. Though it doesn't always happen that way....

For me, I was deceived out of the lifetime marriage I was totally committed to living. Just a fact. My "baggage" has no hatred or anger or lack of self awareness; just a lot of potentially lifelong damage I work with and through every day. I've long since accepted this; I had before it was over. It would take a pretty unusual man to embrace what it would mean to be with me. I'm not a simple woman, even if I do very much enjoy simple things. So I've been on my own for 10 years, with my children. Ten years ago, it may have been possible to just be in someone's orbit long enough to surmount the sticker shock of a difficult life's effects, but I don't see any way for that to happen now.

But life may look a lot different in a few years, so I've not given up hope. Some days anyway. I often wish I could, because it's painful to be alone. I'm a companion type of woman and have always been. I have my own mind, but regardless of what this  society demands, I do need a man. I want one also, but the need is primary and I don't care how I'm judged for saying so. It's true of me. And I don't mean need as in needy; I've lived my life without the love or companionship of a man, and I've never clung to one just to have one. But I know myself. And being a genX'er, I've never come across any woman my generation or younger who has admitted this, that a woman can need a man. But I do. I am however aware that it's possible to live a whole life with an unmet need, so I'm hoping I won't, accepting that I might. So there may be nothing wrong with dating, just that I don't suit the concept or its parameters. I likewise don't pilot a helicopter or fit into a canning jar.

Hm, well I would consider going and actually drive there if there were a few indications in the flyer or poster such as:

- children are welcome and there is space or activities designed for them (I likely wouldn't use them, but knowing this has been organised gives me the impression that the organisers are considerate and conscientious)
- on-site facilities for water, toilets, and even better would be for eating like even just picnic tables and fire-pits or charcoal bbqs available for use
- workshops or demonstrations of skills throughout the day, or at certain times- the reason for going, haha
- animals- both welcome, such as well-behaved dogs, and maybe on-site livestock (a nice touch, optional, and only if it relates to the purpose of the event)
- day-time events and activities, workshops, and an evening wrap-up of a bonfire and bbq, music, or something else for everyone still there to enjoy before having to leave for children's bedtimes, even if it does go on longer for everyone else. This should have a time on it, such as bonfire at 8pm, and not be left to whenever people get bored or stop doing things- that tends to get long and I may not want to linger, just plan to stay for a song or two.

If it's treated like a fair at least once or twice each summer, with ongoing classes or workshops throughout the yr, I would go to the fair or "open-house" to check it out, and then I would come for classes or sign up for workshops that interest me. I wish this were happening near me, and I'm always looking out for it. I'd do it myself, only I don't have the ability at this time in my life. If it were organised this way, I would also assume that all ages would come to the ongoing workshops and classes, probably mostly teens to people in their last quarter all coming to learn and work together, since I would not have any impression otherwise, and that makes sense to me. I am not deterred by an imbalance of sexes, so I'd come again even if I were only one of four women there the first time.

I differ in opinion from some of what has been expressed here, in spite of having had severely traumatic experiences, in that if I see a flyer or poster up for an event, I don't consider whether or not I'd be safe; I assume it. I rely on my intuition as I arrive to tell me that I'm not safe, in which case, I would leave. But I've never thought of danger when deciding if I'll go to an event, even if it is rural or small town or even wilderness-related if it is on a highway and I don't have to portage or fly in for it. I live in Canada though, and I'm unfamiliar with how other places may differ from my own experience of relying on goodwill and safety in publicly-offered events.

I have not built with strawbale, only stud framing, but could you make a double stack of the CMU blocks so you have your 16"? I personally would not risk that much overhang on a stem wall. Hopefully someone with strawbale experience can give suggestions or advice. :)

I only have a small suggestion that I'm sure you've considered and probably already done, which is to assume that you will have a kitchen garden next to the house and then use that space as efficiently as possible, maybe vertical if you can too, until you know where your main gardens will go. I would really, really use that space as much as possible. I personally don't mind putting a big potato and/or squash-and-beans garden in anywhere, knowing it may not stay there because this is relatively low effort where I live at present, and I can move it or use it for other things easily, or even let it go to grass. If I had to work the soil a lot for this, I would not be so cavalier about it.

I'm looking forward to responses to your question too; I think a lot of us have this dilemma.

Hi Justin and family, and fellow permies. I wanted to share a little story with you all.

After running a small wilderstead in remote Yukon for years, I bought land on the east coast, but things went very badly for my family internally. So we lost the land, and moved back to Yukon where I was shortly hit by a truck, and with a traumatic brain injury, the need to learn to walk and talk and do normal things independently again- and now as a single mother of five-, trying to function was all I could do. Then four yrs ago I bought a house in a little town further south with the settlement money for my injuries, since I could (slowly) climb stairs finally. Here, I began the heartbreaking process of giving up on homesteading that I have had deeply within my awareness since I was a 7 yr old city-dwelling girl.

I've continued to watch videos, many many of the Rhodes family  :) and have at times participated here if I could, but I've always stopped when I felt too sad. In the interim years, my big learning project has been hellenistic astrology, which I could do, without having the continual learning process involved in permaculture- I've been cognitively limited, but have healed significantly even in that way, and suddenly. Very recently, I had a big epiphany, huge. In the last two yrs, due to adding in yet another supplement to my diet that shocked me with how much it healed me- huge gains in a very short time- I woke up at sunrise and shot straight up in my bed with a whole new comprehension of my purpose and what I know I'm built for.

I saw that I must not give up on permaculture and homesteading, and the epiphany included that all of my five children have strong indications in their birth promises of homesteading, that it is not just about me not being able to do it, being without a husband or partner to work together (and no social circle in a new place), but about my children and their future children. I raced to my chart binder to verify what had come to me- I do not memorise charts; I'm not able yet, so I had to look. I have been looking at their charts though for yrs and never saw this very strong and now obvious correlation- all of them, and me. So loss of permaculture in my life led me to learning ancient astrology and astrology led me back to permaculture! And now although I am very behind, and no longer have land, I will not look back. Not ever. God speaks to us in whatever way we'll hear.

Thank you, Rhodes family, for holding the torch when some of us could not. Six more have come home (if only in our hearts and minds, so far).

Thank you James and Mark! I'll start the log piling and see if I can't also pile logs at the eroded edge. It faces northwest and its a bit cool and very shaded there. I'm not sure about the red birch. I've never seen it grow like this; it grows like the willow in the far north- long whips from a base. I've just moved to a new environment and climate and I have no experience with any of it! I'll ask my neighbour; he took me on an impromptu guided tree-tour. I love including humans in the design as well.... Also I like to invite and encourage the native humans rather than leave a vacuum until the invasive kind shows up unimpeded, hahaha.