Jiemsi Kris

I see, perhaps i will try collard greens then. I have either the champion or morris heading variety, do you have any recommendation for which is more heat-tolerant?

Tereza Okava wrote:Hi Jiemsi, welcome to the forum.
I grow kale in Brazil (zone 9b) and find that most of it doesn't tolerate heat that well. I've grown a few varieties including lacinato and find they just don't get that big (leaf size isn't as big as in more temperate climates) before they poop out. The same applies to kale in general. I tried seeds from Italy called cavallo nero (maybe, it was a long time ago) thinking they would be better in the heat and no luck.
I do a lot better with collard greens, which get large and tolerate the heat better.

Does anybody know which dino kale variety (standard lacinato kale, black magic, mamba, etc) is best suited for high temperatures? The 2 most common selections seem to be the standard lacinato and black magic but I cant find any information as to which is more heat tolerant. Most of the seed stores/sites does not explicitly state which is more heat tolerant and customer service does not seem to know for sure either when asked/emailed. So perhaps if anybody has tried growing them side by side or know any good resources/studies about this, they can share their experience/knowledge

if tap water is 1.5 ms/cm n im under the assumption that its filtered seawater therefore high salinity, will soil plants suffer or is this still safe levels?
is there anything i can do to remedy this?
Also is there a way i can sort of find out how much or at least the range of NaCl in this water without having it get tested or asking the source (no reply)?

Does pruning/cut-come-again harvesting leafy greens result in an overall increased yield compared to just leaving them alone? I have some arugula and kale and was wondering if i should pick the lower older leaves or just leave them if i want to maximize yields. Also if anyone knows any experiments/research done on this, do link it since most i found was about pruning fruiting plants.
Also Im in a pretty hot area, will pruning/harvesting leaves delay bolting?

It was just cleanly snapped off while i lifted the seedling since the taproot was extremely thin yet deep into the soil. There were only a few other shorter smaller roots other than the taproot as the seedling is only a few days old. All of them are actually fine a day later, just wanted to know if those with the taproot snapped will be permanently stunted or not, hence worth keeping or not.

How bad is it when the taproot of a seedling (few days old) wild arugula gets damaged when transplanting? The worst damage was probably half of the ~7cm long taproot got snapped off. Other damage include taproot that come out of the drainage holes getting crushed and withering out since i didnt use a water tray.
I read that this means plant could die or get permanently stunted yet i've also read that this could mean more roots could branch out from that broken taproot which is apparently a good thing. Anyone have any definitive proof which is true? Perhaps from a study/research paper or project. Also what if this happens to kale (do they even have a taproot)?