Here are my thoughts you may take them or leave them, I expect some to not like them, that is okay.
1. There is no such thing as a "Back to Eden" method. Someone putting a name on something doesn't change what it is. All this is amounts to compost and wood mulch. As long as there have been wood chippers, gardeners have been putting wood chips on gardens. I was doing it as a child for my grandfather in the late 70s. One reason people are worried about what to do here is we stopped calling it what it is and made it a "specialized method". If you just said use compost, organic fertilizers and heavily mulch with wood chips, it may not sizzle as well, but no one would be confused. So just stop trying to make it complex and mulch an move along.
2. There is absolutely no issue with wood chips "robbing nitrogen", it isn't a thing, stop worrying about it, it can't happen. As many noted the chips break down very slowly, and there is a reason. Only a very thin layer of the bottom chips can bond their carbon with the N in the soil and then only the very thin top layer of that. If you have 8 inches of wood chips and 10 inches of good soil only about 1/2 inch of the two combined is even capable of the Carbon/Nitrogen bond at one time. Further this small amount of N is not gone, it is given back over time as it naturally composts, breaks down and becomes soil. I swear if one more of my listeners calls in and asks how to deal with chips robbing N, I am going to shoot myself, it isn't a thing, LET IT GO.
3. In spite of #2 the best thing you can do is put down a lot of compost and a lot of organic fertility in the first few years for many reasons. One is if your soil sucks, it is going to take a long time for just chips to change that. So the next thing that happens is you are on the internet claiming the chips robbed nitrogen that wasn't there in the first place. Next is the fact that in most of the US we try to get plants out as early as we can. While the plants can survive the soil is still very cold and a lot of the nutrients that are there, can't be accessed by the plants as there is not yet sufficient biological activity to make them available to the plants. This is specifically true in micro nutrients like Calcium, Magnesium, Zinc and Iron. So for the first few years if you have any slow growth supplementing with chelated forms of those is a good idea too. It is not needed but it is very helpful. At the end is a link with my recommended fertility aids and how I use them. I also recommend supplementing in early season with liquid kelp. Again this is most needed in new gardens before the biology has caught up with the new ecosystem you are creating and very early in the season when many microbes are slow or asleep. In time you need less and less even early on, you end up with a very slow composting action that gently raises soil temps. Biology grows and a few seasons in you can only add more chips and supplement only where plants tell you to. Compost teas are great, so are prepared products like Garrett juice.
4. There is nothing you can do that will get this process kicked it the butt and rolling like fungal inoculation. I always use a product called Endo Mycorrhizae Fungal Inoculation from Sustainable Agricultural Technologies, Inc. when starting new beds. I have trialed identical beds with identical plants with fungal inoculation as the only variable. The results are undeniable. Getting deep into what mycorrhizae fungi do is too complex for this post but they are amazing. They will colonize the lower parts of the wood chips, colonize the soil, attach to your plants roots and effectively become extensions of their root systems and help with water and nutrient needs.
5. Be careful of the video that started this craze. The guy is a wonderful person but his religion interferes with reality. At one point he says something to the effect of, "Wood chips take up water when it is too wet and release it when it is too dry. There is no way to explain that other than it is miracle." That quote isn't exact but it is close. It isn't a miracle and we can explain it, it is called osmosis, you learned about it in likely Jr. High School. Here remember, "a process by which molecules of a solvent tend to pass through a semipermeable membrane from a less concentrated solution into a more concentrated one, thus equalizing the concentrations on each side of the membrane." Not putting the guy down but when someone thinks grade school science is an unexplainable miracle, don't hang on every word they say. This is just one example of many examples where very simple science is considered something miraculous in this video. To be fair I myself consider these things miracles of creation, but it doesn't mean we can't explain them or understand them scientifically.
6. Sometimes, okay a lot of times people in our space want to be purists they consider "products" bad. They don't want to use kelp or manures or organic fertilizer, etc. They want no outside inputs. Okay well ignoring that chips are most likely outside inputs, you can do that, it will work, the question is only when. And where are you now. Some say all I did was mulch with chips and look at my garden in the first year, it is amazing. Great well you already had good soil, that is why it worked so fast with so little. So if you want to only mulch, you can, it may take a few seasons to really make things happen though.
7. Feeding worms and microbes works, you can talk to your feed store, often they have feed they can't sell full price because wevels got in it, it got moldy, etc. Just a thin layer of this on the soil will bring in worms like a dinner bell at a work camp. I don't care what Dr. Ingam says, molasses works and works well. Old moldy left over sweet feed is great. You don't have to do this but it works. We have trialed this also with beds side by side and after a season the worm count is 4-10x higher where feed was added. As an added bonus as nuts as it sounds molasses especially dry molasses repels fire ants. It does so indirectly, yea they eat it but it kicks up the nematode action and they hate that. We have horrible fire ants in Texas and in spring when they boom I can litteraly see the outline around places we mulched with molasses, by the mounds going around those areas but not into them.
Again you can do it all with just chips or just chips and compost but a layered approach will go faster. If you are interested in the specific fertility products I use they are here http://www.thesurvivalpodcast.com/tag/fertility
and as I add new ones (a very cool one is coming soon) I tag them so they are always here and always updated. If anyone has any questions about this post just ask. If anyone is upset by it, I apologize in advance but it is nothing but my opinion backed by about 35 years of growing gardens and over a decade of designing and implementing permaculture systems.