klorinth McCoy

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since Feb 13, 2011
Southern Manitoba, Canada, Zone 3B
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Recent posts by klorinth McCoy

Finished it. Very good read. Well worth it. Good explanation of why he did what he did and why you should think about it. I love that he gives very practical and useable information. This is not a fluff book like so many others, just talking about nice sounding ideas they promise will change your lives and the world. He is talking about simple and easy to follow actions that will have a direct Impact on your soil, forage, and livestock. He tells you what to do and why. He gives clear direction of what to use and how... exactly what I like.

Buy it and read it.
1 year ago
That looks like a great read. Fits perfectly with how I am already looking at our pasture.
Thank you for the recommendation I will be reading it.
1 year ago
Hi Ron,
It’s been a very long time since I have been here on Permies. Thank you for bringing me back.
My first thought when reading your post was what is your purpose for this land? Second thought was how much are you working with? So I went and found your first post where you gave some info on this.

Wife recently inherited her grandparents 286 acre farm 35 miles northwest of Lubbock, Texas. The farm has been used for growing crops, mainly cotton, milo and corn. Of the 286 acres, about 100 acres is crop land, about 100 acres is in the CRP program, the rest is native pasture. The native pasture has been overgrazed and poorly managed for 70 years and is grown up in catclaw mimosa and yucca. Grasses present are prairie grasses like blue grama, buffalo grass, bluestem and western wheatgrass.

You talked about pastured pigs. Is this all you are planning or is there more livestock? Specifically cattle or sheep? As you already know your land is a perfect example of Brittle as described by Allon Savory. His Holistic Management system is what you need to be using. It is able to do most of what you want. That being said 286 acres is going to be a lot of work no matter what you do. Use your animals and get the grasses growing. Nature will take care of the infiltration.

On to your questions: my preference is to use the Subsoiler (Keyline plot) because it is less work and faster. They both have their places in different locations and environments. The others above have provided very good information.

Do you have visible surface runoff? Is there obvious erosion? I would start there with the subsoiler. A single day can make a significant difference for short term infiltration. I am not sold on the idea that the water actually “flows” to the ridge lines when using the Keyline system, but it does get the rain into the ground. And that is what you want. Ponds and swales could be used for localized water catchment and use. Such as for your livestock.

What kind of slopes do you have? 1%, 5%, 10%. How steep are they? I am on basically flat land so my use of a subsoiler is for breaking compaction layers and getting the water and roots past that first hard layer. I only have a few acres with enough slope to justify doing anything else.
1 year ago
Jahnavi, you just got me thinking... What about a bag of wool that is the right size for the quilt box? You could switch out the wool any time you needed. Easy and fast. You could even do it right before winter and go into the cold with dry insulation.

I like that idea.
3 years ago
So I am thinking about starting to use the Warre quilt idea on my hives. We are in a very cold area and need really good insulation while still maintaining control of condensation. I like the quilt idea for this.

I have seen different suggestions on how to put them together.

My question is about what to use inside the quilt? Most people talk about wood shavings. Makes sense. They will insulate by holding small pockets of air, while absorbing and releasing moisture... What about using wool?

Wool has the best heat retention to moisture absorption of almost anything in nature. Could I use wool?

I raise sheep so I have an endless supply of high quality wool. I'm imagining a box with a fine metal mesh bottom filled with wool and topped with another layer of mesh. Not sure how think the wool should be. An 8" layer of loose wool would be VERY warm.

What are the problems with this idea? Where am I going wrong? I am a newbie to bees so I need direction. I've only had a couple hives for the last 4 years and lost then twice during the winters.
3 years ago
So I have successfully grown Enoki mycelium in a little glass jar. I now need to take it out and colonize more jars. But I need some advice on how best to get it out of the jar.

I could cut into it with a knife and try to pry it out. I'm concerned about how much damage I can do to it. My others have gotten contaminated by Mold, so I don't want to lose this one.
4 years ago
Rob, I love the bags in the mini greenhouse idea. Great use of available materials and space. You have given me a few ideas for my next experiment with oysters.

Thank you.
4 years ago
No personal experience, but Manchurian grow on the Canadian prairies with little problems from what I have heard. I planted a couple in the back yard of our last house. I let one get too wet but the other was doing fine a couple years later when we moved.
4 years ago
What about an improvised rock tumbler?

A solid bucket with a tight lid that can be flipped on its side and then rolled. Fill half of it with pods and some rocks. If it's put on rollers you can roll it so that the rocks break the pods and knock the seeds out. This should abrade the seeds at the same time.

If they don't tumble well enough just add a couple 1/4" thick strips of wood on the inside to bounce the rocks more.

If the seeds are already removed you could abrade them with small gravel. It should scuff all sides of the seeds evenly.
4 years ago
John,
I hear you. I'm working my way thru the Mycelium Running book. I am working on trying some of the different ways to collect and start spawn. The oyster I started is still progressing. I need to pick up some more oysters, I have a couple more substrates to try with it. I'm also collecting spore prints from the Portabello.

I understand getting background information and learning the basics. My mind ranges way ahead of my practical experience though. That is the reason for my questions and scenarios.

As for the mycorrhizal species, I have no expectation of being able to harvest anything from them. If that were to occur at some point bonus. I am more interested in the mycoreforestation and reclamation aspect of their use. I am interested in getting their mycelial mass in the ground to support my trees and pasture. If I can get good at producing spawn I will start trying things like innoculating small hay bales and burlap bags of different substrates. Those can then be placed around my property where I need or want them. My focus is improving my soil.
4 years ago