Jesus Martinez

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since Mar 07, 2011
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Recent posts by Jesus Martinez

Jim Morr wrote:Can’t see “Bounce” while using a shovel if the soil is that hard use a Chisel Tip Digging Bar to soften the area to be dug, it can all so be used to chop roots,



With blackberries and other invasives, you don't as much of the root out of the ground as possible.
1 month ago

Trace Oswald wrote:

paul wheaton wrote:
   - at least three sunchokes
   



I think anyone that builds a hugelkultur with at least three sunchokes is soon going to have a hugelkultur with a monocrop of sunchokes :)



Not if you have a good underground rodent population.
1 month ago

paul wheaton wrote:what have i left out?



I don't think you've left things out, but except for the hugelbeds, I don't think there enough linear progression from 1 badge to the next.
1 month ago

Judith Browning wrote:I've bruised the outer edge of my foot by shoveling with soft soled shoes.

I'm wondering what others wear to shovel things and if there is a good shovel with a wider area to 'push' on while shoveling?

I think I need to find some stiff leather soled boots maybe or something with a more rigid sole although I don't think I would wear them much otherwise.

Moving dirt in the past involved picks and pry bars for the rocks and not a lot of digging...now, we have a relatively rock free area and I find digging hurts my feet.



I spent 80$ on a very well made all steel shovel. It has a thick head and what is likely a chromoly shaft/handle that is fairly springy but enables my 240lbs to stand and bounce on the end. My all steel tamping rods for example bend instead. It's a bit heavy for moving a lot of material, but great for digging in rocky soil because I never have to worry about breaking or bending it. It also has a fairly wide lip on the spade end for your foot as well.

Also, as far as shoes go, get something with a shank insert, either carbon fiber or steel. it's the only way to go for digging through hard ground with a shovel.
1 month ago

Sonja Draven wrote:Definitely English ivy for me too. It is pretty but so invasive here and damages everything. (As has been said.)

And you have to burn it in the winter because it won't die otherwise and it just spreads.  (I am actually watching some burn as i type this for that reason.)  Pulling it isn't enough. It roots multiple places, breaks off,  etc.
Blackberry and dandelion can be tough but I can and do eat and use them. (I can understand why others don't feel as I do.)



I've found Ivy a bit easier to control than the invasive Blackberries in the PNW. For one, there are no thorns and I don't come away bloody and secondly, it generally pulls out of the ground fairly easy and is usually an every other year chore instead of once a growing season month.

I have two weeds that I really dislike - Blackberry vines and Salmon Berry bushes. Salmonberry sticks will grow when burried 6 feet underground and the roots can grow 3 or 4 feet in a short amount of time and act as a rhizome.
2 months ago
Hi,

I've got 5 acres that I have been working on for a long time and am finally willing to part with some money to hire some permaculture minded individual to help me with some labor requirements on my land. The things I need to do are planting trees, of which I have around 400 needing to be planted. Part of the work that needs to be done before planting though is clearing out blackberries and salmonberries along with some sheet mulching and moving/cutting some logs. Most of the work is manual labor, I have all the tools needed. Send me a Purple Moosage if interested.
2 months ago

Ken W Wilson wrote:I believe Raintree Nursery has those varieties.



I purchased Bud9 and EMLA27 from Raintree but they didn't have the others due to crop failure.
1 year ago
Hi,

I've got no problem finding plrenty of apple rootstock varieties, but I'm looking for dwarfing varieties of Cherry, Peach/Plum/Apricot, and Pear that dwarfed. Particularly, the varieties I'm looking for are Krymsk and Gisela and I believe OHxF87 is the dwarf pear. The only places I've found are commercial providers that sell in bundles of 1000+ and while it would be nice to be able to get that many, I simply don't have the room.
1 year ago

Paul Gurnsey wrote:

Glenn Darman wrote:Travis I have the #1 system for you with out a doubt...at least for the slugs.Flat Beer ,just get a plastic ice cream container cut off 1/2 of the height and bury it up to the rim height that's left(About 3") and just pour in enough beer to fill 1/2 of that.WE did it 1 year and by the morning they were filled with slugs of all description.Don't just believe what I say...experiment with it.You could put several out randomly seeing you have a big size to deal with.,oh and don't forget to refill with beer.



The best way to deal with slugs is to go buy a flat of beer and invite people over and let everyone drink 22 of the 24 cans. Fill all of the empties with a little bit of beer and lay them sideways with the opening on the bottom. The slugs cannot resist the beer and will be drinking it while you go and collect all of the cans the next day and take them to be recycled. I have seen this be the most effective.....yet unintentional trap of slugs ever. I went camping and got 8 slugs in one can once.

If you drink it, slugs will come.



Beer vats are a great way for slugs.

The other thing that would work well is making seedling tables using copper pipe as your table legs. It's a bit more expensive, but is cheaper than sluggo. You could have it way worse... even without sheet mulching, the PNW is inundated with slugs. I however use sheet mulching for my orchard and put wood chips over the top. The benefit it has on soil conditions due to the extra worms, and lack of weeds allows me to concentrate on the weeds (blackberries and salmonberries) that don't respond to cardboard coverings.
1 year ago