Travis Halverson

The meat is much more firm after pouring off the extracted liquid several times and ensuring they had a coating of salt. Hung the meat indoors near the wood stove after rinsing off the salt.

I decided to not build this because the original construction of the cabin’s floor had me thinking the weight of the RMH would cause damage. Possibly catastrophic damage. The builder laid the floor joists flat.

I decided to upgrade the commercial, wood burning stove. And build an outdoor sauna.

Experimenting with curing ham hocks.

A buddy had given six ham hocks, along with pork chops, to me. Normally, in the Winter, excess meat would be left outside to stay frozen until ready to use or space in a freezer frees up. The unseasonably warm days assured the meat would spoil outside.

I cleaned out a cooler, salted the hocks, placed in the cooler (to keep critters out), and poured more salt over the top.

It’s been about a week and I’ve poured off any liquid twice, so far.

I had forgotten almost everything I’ve learned from the old Farmstead Meatsmith videos but this process may work.

I just took the hocks out today, they are still very squishy so I applied more salt and put them back into the cooler outdoors.

There’s not really a question here. I’m adding this because nothing popped up when I searched “salt cure ham hocks”.

Add any info if you’d like.

20’ x 20’ cabin on posts, with dormer loft.

I recently added a 16’ x 20’ addition which is master bedroom, bathroom, and closet.

We ran an electric space heater in the addition, and the loft during last winter. I am still okay with supplementing electric heat to those areas. We prefer the sleeping areas cool.

I will get back about the other questions next week. I am taking my son camping this weekend.

I have some experience with using RMH (batch and J-tube) at Wheaton Labs.  While I completed the tasks to received a RMH pep badge, I have yet to finish the process by posting the tasks on the site. With working both styles, I’d prefer the J-tube in my home.  

Thanks for the warm welcome!

A sketch of my idea.

6” system because 6” is already in for existing wood stove.

Need to buy supplies and try to finish before winter. First I will need to shore up the floor as this house is on stilts.

I want to use a basic design like at Cooper Cabin, but without the crazy long chimney!

Bella May wrote:Love this! Thank you so much for making these!

You bet!

I ran the stove at Allerton Abbey twice.  It is really, really neat.

The second time I ran it, the door got sealed to the opening and I was not able to add more wood.  I was very hesitant to tug too hard on the door because I imagined glass shattering into my wrist. Didn’t want to get blood on that nice floor in there.

I let the batch of wood burn more to coals and the door released.

It is definitely possible I fitted the door too snug after starting the first batch.  

Mike Jay Haasl wrote:Awesome, I hope it works well from now on!  Or at least until next year and the RMH...

Thank you!

Mike Jay Haasl wrote:Has the chimney been swept lately?  Wondering if there could be an obstruction or nest...

I'm also in Northern Wisconsin and it hasn't been wet and warm enough to make my stove struggle.  Weather seems to be the biggest issue when it's drizzling and 40 degrees out.  Of course, we have different stoves and chimneys.

How tall is your chimney?  If you're worried about moving the stove too close to the wall, could you swap out the 90s for 45s?  That should help the draft and maybe let you leave the stove far enough away from the wall.

I swept chimney a few weeks ago.

Just got home, I removed 90s and visually inspected up the pipe to chimney - looks good. Also lit a twist of paper under disconnected chimney pipe - great draft.

Inspected in top of the stove.  Noticed the insulation seemed out of place. Repositioned it.  Reconnected stovepipe with 90s included.  Stove works great now. No smoke back when door open.