12much McCoy

Tnxx for the answers,

I'm not a native speaker, so i'm so sorry if it isn't clear enough about what my question or explanation is.

@mekennedy1313:

you're allright, that was what I ment. I've some clay bricks and will make some "bridges" to achieve enough strength.  I was curious about the accumulation because off the next thought: If you walk on a beach, the top layers for about 3-6 inch will be warm after a day sunshine. If the kids dig a hole, it is rather cool down under:-)

So if there is a big difference, i'll have to look for another solution in between.

The big issue is: It will be changed within the next months/years, I'm sure of that. Sand and stones will make the job much easier. And then it sounds appealing how fast your portable is build when all the stuff is laying around (and hands.......:-)

@Paul:

maybe I'll steal your idea of the wooden box and replace one long side for clay bricks, for my wife likes to sit on the floor with her back against the sofa...

@Paul:

I love what you're doing! I built my wooden house by myself and it has cob innerwalls with heatingpipes , (fed by a downgraded heater at this moment) a RMH is the next thing to do. My one and only concern  is redoing things over and over again for the benefit of fun, changing forms and experimenting. So wouldn't be nice if that is possible with less effort as possible? I'll go for the sand and stone filling, but I've a question about the accumulation. Is it enough?  Is there a big difference in comparison with cob in terms of radiation?

Instead of a wooden case, I'll build a hollow bench from cob and want to make some connection with the walls in future, so it has to be changed easier than dried cob all around the duct will be. The second benefit will be the weight on my wooden floor. I already made some concrete poles for extra foundation last easter (forced to stay at home a couple of days in Holland:-)

I also produced a few cubes 150x150x150mm from Curon 120S (famous Dutch refractory mortar, but very expensive) with vermiculite in different mixes to find out which ratio will be most efficient without degrading to fast. I want to produce the burntunnel and heatriser with drumstand and connections  for the duct, ash pit and cleanout in 3 molds, regarding to the dimensions mentioned in Ianto's (PDF)book. This way I hope I'll have less concerns when rebuilding.

Keep up the good work,

Regards, Boy - Holland.

Buy an Imac with Intel proc.
and also an external 2,5" HD for Time Machine. (you will love it!)
Keep your windows seven.
Buy parallels (the best virtual machine I've ever seen.)
Download UbuntU for free.

Install everything in ONE evening only once, while enjoying the beauty en spaceprovider on your desk, and save lots, and I mean LOTS of time to do other things instead of solving problems you never asked for.

I'm forced to work with windows computers at work, and I'm an expert if I may say so. But everyone who's ever asked (repeatingly) for my help with their windows related problems over the years, are convinced Ubuntu or Mac users now. I hardly see them anymore:-)

Succes.

In bits and pieces I'll introduce myself to you all, hoping not only to learn from you, but also be able to contribute...I'm from Holland, not hit by a truck, but by a rocket stove recently. I built my wooden house by myself, my wife plastered cob on the walls after I placed heating tubes on them etc etc. Want to know more? Please take a google search and take a pick;-)

Placed my first question/comment in a topic, won't be the last, I think....

Hi All,

I'm new on the block, recently been hit on the head by a rocket stove, and now drawing, reading (got the book in pdf:-) en this weekend digging in and under the (wooden) floor to produce a reliable massbearing capacity in concrete.

I also don't like the barrel in sight, so I'm glad with the question and answers, but still not satisfied. Is there a reason not to? I would like to produce a COB wall around the barrel but with a gap from about 2-3".  Would this barrel-skin or bricks like mentioned earlier, take away to much heat or speed for that matter to be able to warm up the mass? I'm a little bit concerned about condens. Or should I just put a bucket under the upgoing outlet through the roof and go for it?