*Welcome Kate Flood, author of The Compost Coach

Welcome Kate!  Fantastic to have you here to answer questions about composting and your new book this week.  To start things off - what's your biggest composting achievement?

I think mine was just making compost the first time - and actually, mostly every time still!  Also, probably the first time I opened the bin up and had generated some serious heat in there. Hello hot composting!

I'd love to make a big open pile somewhere but here in Queensland (Australia) we have a lot of snakes on our property (by a creek) and they do love a heap... So i'll be sticking with the containers for now!

Welcome, Kate!  

A good compost is something I am still striving for on my little property.  It is a learning experience!

It's exciting to have you here with us, Kate. Welcome!

Hi, Kate

Your book looks great and I am looking forward to all the posts here on the forum about composting!

This is something I did years ago though so much more information that I don't know.

Welcome, Kate! I really appreciated the breakdown of the hierarchy of scraps in your book. I knew about the different kinds of composting, but never made that connection. Now it all makes sense.

Welcome Kate, your book looks awesome, great instagram page too :)

Jules Silverlock wrote:Welcome Kate!  Fantastic to have you here to answer questions about composting and your new book this week.  To start things off - what's your biggest composting achievement?

I think mine was just making compost the first time - and actually, mostly every time still!  Also, probably the first time I opened the bin up and had generated some serious heat in there. Hello hot composting!

I'd love to make a big open pile somewhere but here in Queensland (Australia) we have a lot of snakes on our property (by a creek) and they do love a heap... So i'll be sticking with the containers for now!

Hi Jules,
Thanks for having me on permies this week. I love collective forums like this - such an invaluable think tank and platform for sharing ideas and experiences.

One of my biggest composting achievement was when I first worked out that I could turn bones into biochar. This was one of my final pieces of the puzzle that allows my household to return every single scrap we generate back into our soil.

FYI - I actually explain how to hot compost in smaller than 1000L volumes in enclosed compost bins in my book - this might help the snakes as I suggest to apply rodent and snake proof mesh to the bottom of the bins too.

Kate

S Rogers wrote:Welcome, Kate!  

A good compost is something I am still striving for on my little property.  It is a learning experience!

Hi there,
Let me know if you need any advice about how to improve your current set up. I'm here to help.

Kate

Thank you Leigh! I'm really pleased to be here this week too. Let me know if you have any questions or compost queries I can help you with.

Kate

Leigh Tate wrote:It's exciting to have you here with us, Kate. Welcome!

Hi Anne,
Thanks for the lovely feedback about my book. Do you still compost at your place now?

Kate

Anne Miller wrote:Hi, Kate

Your book looks great and I am looking forward to all the posts here on the forum about composting!

This is something I did years ago though so much more information that I don't know.

Hi Monica, I'm honestly delighted to hear that my scrap hierarchy has helped you! What are the different types of composting systems you have at your place which you will divide your scraps between?

Kate

Monica Truong wrote:Welcome, Kate! I really appreciated the breakdown of the hierarchy of scraps in your book. I knew about the different kinds of composting, but never made that connection. Now it all makes sense.

Thanks Zoe!

Kate

Zoe Ward wrote:Welcome Kate, your book looks awesome, great instagram page too :)

Welcome, welcome, welcome!

"The Compost Coach" ... what a GREAT title! That's a title I aspire to, but so far not single-mindedly enough to achieve it.
I should buy your book just to egg me on! I'm so looking forward to seeing what good questions this permies community asks you. I already know what I wanna ask!

So, glad to see you're here!

Welcome Kate!

I can't wait to read discussions that might happen while you are here.

Hope you like your stay

Kate Flood wrote:Hi Monica, I'm honestly delighted to hear that my scrap hierarchy has helped you! What are the different types of composting systems you have at your place which you will divide your scraps between?

Kate

I have an open batch system and a closed composting bin system at the moment. I have tried the Bokashi method one winter, but I didn't feel like it was successful and the cost of the materials put me off trying again. But I am glad to learn that I can compost bones and meat. Most other advice on composting says not to and it always seemed such a waste. I've also tried direct composting right into my garden bed, but I live in zone 3b/4 and the scraps didn't disappear as quickly as my husband would have liked. He likes a more neat and tidy garden and didn't enjoy accidentally digging up the compost .

Jane Lewis wrote:Welcome, welcome, welcome!

"The Compost Coach" ... what a GREAT title! That's a title I aspire to, but so far not single-mindedly enough to achieve it.
I should buy your book just to egg me on! I'm so looking forward to seeing what good questions this permies community asks you. I already know what I wanna ask!

So, glad to see you're here!

Hi Jane,
Thanks for the warm welcome. It's great being here for the week - I would love to answer your compost question. Please go right ahead and ask.

Kate

Monica Truong wrote:

Kate Flood wrote:Hi Monica, I'm honestly delighted to hear that my scrap hierarchy has helped you! What are the different types of composting systems you have at your place which you will divide your scraps between?

Kate

I have an open batch system and a closed composting bin system at the moment. I have tried the Bokashi method one winter, but I didn't feel like it was successful and the cost of the materials put me off trying again. But I am glad to learn that I can compost bones and meat. Most other advice on composting says not to and it always seemed such a waste. I've also tried direct composting right into my garden bed, but I live in zone 3b/4 and the scraps didn't disappear as quickly as my husband would have liked. He likes a more neat and tidy garden and didn't enjoy accidentally digging up the compost .

Sounds like you are really closing the loop on your "waste". Well done Monica!

Timothy Norton wrote:Welcome Kate!

I can't wait to read discussions that might happen while you are here.

Hope you like your stay

Thank you Timothy. The compost community on here is so curious and eager to learn, so I'm excited to hang out here for the week.

Kate

Hello Kate! I’ve been following you on IG & have learned SO much from you! And thrilled that you completed a book that will be filled w all your knowledge & wisdom! Maybe I’ll win a copy!!! Woohoo!
Q for you: I started vermicomposting this year & it’s a much slower process getting the worm castings than I thought. Any way to keep my worms happy & producing more?? What bedding do you recommend? I use cococoir, shredded paper & cardboard.
Thanks!!!

Hi Kate - I find myself currently living in a condo and the board elected me as the landscaping person. Muah-ha-ha. I'd like to begin to move us toward what permaculture we can manage as we replace plants. I'm in central FL zone 9a on the coast, so salt tolerance is key. I am wondering what type of composting system I can set up that is clear about good/poor ingredients and that won't require much maintenance. One of the last tasks I'd be up for doing is turning the pile a 100 degrees and 90% humidity! The soil is mostly sand currently. Thoughts?

Thank you,

PJ

Hi Kate
Welcome
Starting new gardens in Zealand New Brunswick Canada. Quite the challenge. Stoney sandy soil. Very few worms so far. Need help to get compost cooking here. Any advise?

Welcome Kate!

What a great timing, I’m just trying to start composting again. I tried the bokashi method last year but then I ran into some problems with winter temperatures and some other things and got really, really discouraged.. But I will start a thread of it’s own on that topic. Good to hear you have an Instagram page too, I haven’t used it in a while but I still have an account. I’ll have to go have a look!

Hi Kate!

I’ve never read your book, but I didn’t want to miss this opportunity to take advantage to your expertise and experience!


So, I have a question:

What are your thoughts about using shredded paper in compost?  I have a business office and we have to shred and throw out a lot of documents.

Can this material be used in composting? My knowledge is very basic.  I assume shredded paper is a good Carbon source so, all I’m missing is a nitrogen source? If that’s true, what do you recommend?

I wouldn’t be using this for gardening or food. But I have the space at my property, and I produce plenty of shredded paper so I just thought turning it back into dirt would be better than it ending up in a landfill.

Is human urine an adequate source for Nitrogen?  One more thing I have free access to, haha.

So really, I want to know if I could do a compost pile that the vast majority of consisted of shredded paper and urine ?

Thank you 🙏🏻

Gaurī Rasp wrote:Hello Kate! I’ve been following you on IG & have learned SO much from you! And thrilled that you completed a book that will be filled w all your knowledge & wisdom! Maybe I’ll win a copy!!! Woohoo!
Q for you: I started vermicomposting this year & it’s a much slower process getting the worm castings than I thought. Any way to keep my worms happy & producing more?? What bedding do you recommend? I use cococoir, shredded paper & cardboard.
Thanks!!!

Hi there,
Thanks for your questions. I'll answer them by sharing some edited extracts from my book The Compost Coach.

1. "Worms don’t have teeth, so they can’t bite into chunky scraps; rather, they suck decomposing and soft scraps into their mouths. By understanding this characteristic, we can optimise their scraps by chopping them up, freezing/thawing them (this helps them to decompose more quickly) or, even better, blitzing them in a food processor to create lots of surface area for both bacteria and worms to easily consume."

2. "It’s easy to get overly enthusiastic about the amount of food that you think your worms will consume, especially when you hear that worms can consume half their body weight in food and bedding per day. With this thinking, if you bought 1 kilogram of worms, surely they could munch through 500 grams of food waste per day, right? Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but generally that’s not the case. Your worm farm would have to be operating at optimum efficiency for this to happen (perfect pH, ideal outdoor temperature, a farm with a large surface area, and an acclimatised and hungry adult worm population).

Instead of focusing on weight, it’s actually best to be guided by observation and direct feedback from the worms when it comes to the quantity and frequency of feedings. Always eyeball what’s left in your farm before you add more scraps – and give it a sniff, too. If there’s a lot of their last meal left, then hold off giving them more. If it’s a bit smelly, then this can be a sign that you’ve added too much food, and anaerobic conditions are taking over. Don’t add more food scraps if this is the case, and instead add dry carbon and give the contents a turn to rebalance conditions. Scraps with more surface area will be consumed more quickly because the microbes will get to work faster. So, chop or blend your scraps to supercharge the amount of waste your worms consume."

3. "I love adding leaf mould or shredded brown leaves to my worm farms as a natural source of carbon. I mow over the leaves a few times first to break down their size. Worms love ripped-up egg cartons and shredded corrugated cardboard (you’ll see them hanging out in the folds); torn paper works well, too. Lots of what you put in your recycling can instead be processed by your worms and returned to the earth. I give my worms the occasional treat of moist lucerne mulch (alfalfa) or pea mulch. It’s always a good idea to cover your scraps with carbon, such as brown leaf litter, to replicate what happens on forest floors. This also stops flies and other pests being attracted to the food waste"

Hope this helps.

Kate

Pj Pape wrote:Hi Kate - I find myself currently living in a condo and the board elected me as the landscaping person. Muah-ha-ha. I'd like to begin to move us toward what permaculture we can manage as we replace plants. I'm in central FL zone 9a on the coast, so salt tolerance is key. I am wondering what type of composting system I can set up that is clear about good/poor ingredients and that won't require much maintenance. One of the last tasks I'd be up for doing is turning the pile a 100 degrees and 90% humidity! The soil is mostly sand currently. Thoughts?

Thank you,

PJ

Hi Pj,
Thanks for you question. I'm going to start by answering with an edited extract from my book with 5 different options. Let me know which one you would like to know more about and I'll send you some more detailed information.

"Working out the best composting kit for your home is an important piece of the puzzle. This can be bewildering, as there are many different commercially available composting systems plus lots more you can make yourself.

The right system will accommodate your climate, as well as the volume and types of waste you produce in your kitchen and garden. Just remember that compost microbes don’t care if they’re in a fancy compost tumbler or a DIY trash-can compost bin with the bottom cut off, so don’t get too hung up on one particular product.

For ease of comparison, I’ve grouped composting equipment into six categories. I’ll provide the pros and cons for common equipment in each category so you can pick a winner – but anyone who composts, regardless of what they use, is already a winner! The six categories are:

1. Enclosed bins – These are best for smaller urban gardens or areas with a lot of wildlife, including pests such as rodents.
2. Boxes and bays – These are best for larger gardens that need to process a lot of plant material and garden refuse.
3. Bokashi bins – These are best for people with a busy lifestyle, apartment dwellers or homes without gardens.
4. Digesters – These are best for the dirt-averse who shudder at the thought of handling compost and want a hands-off approach.
5. Pit and sheet composting – These are best for people who don’t want to move finished compost, as these methods put organic matter exactly where you need it."

I think the first option of an enclosed bin with added rodent and snake proof mesh on the bottom and a DIY compost lung placed in the centre would work well for your communal garden, but let me know what you think first.

Kate

andy tees wrote:Hi Kate
Welcome
Starting new gardens in Zealand New Brunswick Canada. Quite the challenge. Stoney sandy soil. Very few worms so far. Need help to get compost cooking here. Any advise?

Hi Andy,

Thanks for the welcome. Can I please clarify if you would like some more information about hot composting?

Kate

Saana Jalimauchi wrote:Welcome Kate!

What a great timing, I’m just trying to start composting again. I tried the bokashi method last year but then I ran into some problems with winter temperatures and some other things and got really, really discouraged.. But I will start a thread of it’s own on that topic. Good to hear you have an Instagram page too, I haven’t used it in a while but I still have an account. I’ll have to go have a look!

Hi Saana,

Thanks for your warm welcome! I do hope you give bokashi another go - it's one of my favourite composting methods. I have a very detailed section about it in my book and also lots of posts about it on my IG.

Kate

Mark Beard wrote:Hi Kate!

I’ve never read your book, but I didn’t want to miss this opportunity to take advantage to your expertise and experience!


So, I have a question:

What are your thoughts about using shredded paper in compost?  I have a business office and we have to shred and throw out a lot of documents.

Can this material be used in composting? My knowledge is very basic.  I assume shredded paper is a good Carbon source so, all I’m missing is a nitrogen source? If that’s true, what do you recommend?

I wouldn’t be using this for gardening or food. But I have the space at my property, and I produce plenty of shredded paper so I just thought turning it back into dirt would be better than it ending up in a landfill.

Is human urine an adequate source for Nitrogen?  One more thing I have free access to, haha.

So really, I want to know if I could do a compost pile that the vast majority of consisted of shredded paper and urine ?

Thank you 🙏🏻

Hi Mark,
Thanks for your questions. I will start by sharing an edited extract from my book that takes a detailed look at composting paper.

"1. Dioxins
Chlorine bleaching of pulp and paper produces dioxins. The World Health Organization classifies dioxins as persistent organic pollutants, as they accumulate in the food chain. They’re highly toxic, and 90 per cent of our exposure is through food. Because we’re at the top of the food chain, we accumulate dioxins from eating other animals.

People became concerned about the contamination of paper products with dioxins in the 1980s. Today, chlorine bleaching has been replaced by Elemental Chlorine Free (ECF) bleaching, which significantly reduces – but doesn’t completely eliminate – the production of dioxins. Safer methods for whitening paper use oxygen, peroxide (used for newspapers) or ozone, which eliminate chlorine altogether. Look out for the terms Totally Chlorine Free (TCF) or Processed Chlorine Free (PCF – this includes recycled material, which may contain trace levels of dioxins) when buying office paper, if you want to use it in your compost.

2. Dyes
I recommend that you don’t add heavily coloured or dyed cardboard or paper to your compost. However, if it’s not glossy then it’s probably safe in small portions, as most modern inks and dyes are vegetable-based. I’m personally not worried about composting white paper and cardboard with some black printing on it, or single-colour cardboard such as yellow or pink egg cartons.

3. Gloss
I don’t recommend using cardboard or paper that is coated, waxed, shiny or glossy (such as magazine paper) in your garden or compost. This coating can be made from a number of things, including a fine clay pigment that is safe to compost, but it can also be made with a plastic coating. It can be hard to tell the difference, so I recommend recycling glossy items instead.

4. Recycled paper products and BPA
We’re all used to seeing ‘BPA-free’ on plastic bottles and containers. But did you know that many recycled paper and cardboard products contain trace amounts of bisphenol A (BPA) too? This is because thermal shop receipts, which are notoriously full of BPA, end up in mixed paper recycling and get turned into new paper products.

BPA is a chemical that has been linked to a number of serious health issues. According to Food Standards Australia New Zealand, however, the overwhelming weight of scientific opinion is that there is no health or safety issue at the levels to which people are exposed. The US Food & Drug Administration came to the same conclusion in their 2014 safety assessment.

Nevertheless, I want to limit the amount of BPA in my compost and garden because it doesn’t belong in the environment. BPA is found in a lot of different paper products, but thermal shop receipts have the highest concentration; other recycled paper products have very small amounts. My attitude is definitely no thermal receipts in the compost, but I’m happy to add other paper and cardboard even though they may contain small amounts of BPA.

My take on manufactured carbon
There’s no doubt that manufactured carbon has compounds and chemicals that I would prefer weren’t there. To minimise exposure, I focus on using natural sources of carbon in my compost (such as brown leaves and woodchips), and use newspaper, egg cartons with the label removed, and brown cardboard with small amounts of printing as my main sources of manufactured carbon."

So that's some food for thought. Now to answer the rest of your question - urine is a useful source of nitrogen and it's a great compost activator, but I would not use it as your only nitrogen source. Compost microbes are happiest when fed a diverse range of scraps and if your pile simply consists of urine and paper it will turn to paper mache and become quite anaerobic.

Hope this helps.

Kate

Hi Kate!
Welcome!

I have a question: Can I direct compost cow manure? I live in a tropical country. My neighbor has one cow and allows me to take his cow manure. I've tried to make hot composting but turning it is too straining on my back so I'd like to make direct compost with that manure.

Thank you!