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Jen Swanson

pollinator
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since Jul 11, 2020
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Vancouver, Washington
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Recent posts by Jen Swanson

Hi M.K. Love your list! We also do sorrel, cabbage, Asian greens like komatsuna and bok choy, and potato onions. One things that's fun in the PNW is learning that some things will perennialize here that won't elsewhere. For example, my bulbing fennel came back after I cut it back late summer, and it looks great!

Regarding peas - there is a way to foil the mice.... Put row cover over the seeds and weight down the edges with garden stakes or tree branches so they can't crawl underneath. Keep the row cover on until after the seeds have sprouted and are at least a couple inches tall. Then you get to eat the peas, and the mice dont! Haha!
Hi. Some questions - What is the pH of your compost tea? Have you tested your compost tea to see how much nitrogen it has in it? And what percentage of your compost is green vs brown?
1 day ago
Firstly, I would caution you against using mechanical methods on your soil when it's wet. Doing so will only further compact the soil and make your drainage issues worse. Clay and silt are especially susceptible to compaction.

Where I live, we have similar weather patterns to yours as far as winter rain and summer dry are concerned, except that it's wetter longer here. We also have mostly clay soils and lots of slopes, so I feel like I have some experience with what you are dealing with.

I am curious why you feel you need to drain the sloped area you are working on? What are you going to use it for? Are you planning on irrigating it in the summer?

And what is the history of that area? Has it been grassy for some time, exposed to the sun and rain with little to no organic material added to it?

The water in the swale must be coming from uphill. Water will naturally go downhil over time. It may seem like it's not draining, but it just might be. It could be that it's just not draining faster that it's getting filled up from the water coming from uphill.

Adding organic matter, and lots of it, always helps. The soil in the areas of our yard that have been lawn for some time has become compacted by the rain, turning it into hardpan. Sometimes it's so extensive that it's impossible to dig a hole in it. We've found that putting a thick layer of ground-up plant material on it, like arborist chips, season after season, has significantly improved the soil. When we have to plant where we haven't done that, we build a mound of soil (native is best) over the area and plant. Then we add a couple inches of compost and then mulch over that (being careful not to mulch near the trunk). All of the trees and shrubs we've planted like this have done really well.  When planting on a slope, another good trick we've found is to do the same thing but to add some logs or firewood to the downside of the slope to hold in the soil. All of these methods help both with drainage and with improving soil moisture in dryer periods.
1 day ago
Split peas sprouting seems to me to be a testament to the vitality of nature. :) It always amazes me how much abuse the roots of transplanted seedlings can take. Most survive even when they are torn from the soil they were growing in. Yay, nature!
1 day ago
My experience is that plants are not really that fussy when the pH is at least n the ballpark. It's only when the pH is way out of the range that they prefer that I've seen negative effects that need to be remedied. Personally, I'd try growing what you want to grow and see how it does. If you see things like clorosis or other signs of nutrient deficiencies, you could consider altering the pH of the soil. Be careful, however, as something like blossom end rot could be due to a high soil pH or it could be something as simple as not watering enough.
8 months ago
Excellent question, Janice! I struggle with  that every year. Right now, my cabbage has bolted, and my carrots, spinach and Swiss chard are starting to. I look at my garden and think I should have picked all of these earlier. When I can, freeze or dry food and then eat it later, I think it would have been better fresh. And each year, I renew my commitment to grow less so I can eat it fresher and pick it fresh so I enjoy it more. I don't have the answer. I am posting my reply to commiserate and so that I know when some people who do know the answer post what they do!
Hi Patrick -
Regarding the deformity of the new leaves, I suspect the persimmon psyllid. Do you have a microscope or know someone who does? Identifying whether an insect is causing the leaf curl would be helpful.Persimmon psyllid can contribute to fruit drop.
Also -
Do you have a male tree nearby for pollination? Lack of pollination certainly can cause to fruit drop.
I would also prune the tree to allow more sun and light into the center, and start training it into a properly structured orchard tree. I'd also thin the fruit so that you have the correct ratio of fruit to branch for the size of your tree. Thinning the fruit will help the tree retain what's left and will also make the yield from year to year more consistent.
I'd also suggest considering whether you may be over- or under-watering the tree.
Good luck and hope you get some persimmons soon!
8 months ago
Hi Collette. Sorry to hear about your persimmon tree. It does sound and look like a fungal disease that started in the soil to me, but I'm not 100% sure. Do you see any other symptoms on the stems, trunk or root crown of the tree?
Is the tree in a location where the soil drains well? Persimmons need well-draining soil.
I would definitely reduce watering. I think you are watering too much now that the tree has been in the ground a couple months. Water only when the top inch of soil is dry, probably once or twice a week.
8 months ago
Hi. Have you tried testing the pH of the soil or at least adding an acidifier and soaking it in well? The leaves definitely do not look like they are uptaking the nutrients they need from the soil to me, which is what happens when the pH is off enough. The acidifier will take a while to work too. It may take a couple months.
8 months ago
Hi, Jasper. It does look like a fungal disease to me. The large hole in the tree trunk looks like a canker and, it's hard to tell from the picture, but the area where a limb was removed looks infected as well. The fact that the center of the stems looks diseased is another piece of evidence. Some fungal diseases enter through a wound and some through the soil, but, as you can see, they travel through the center of the tree affecting the flow of nutrients and water. They are very difficult to treat. If it's possible to remove the infected limbs (meaning it wasn't soil-borne), that could be a solution. I don't really have any idea how long it will live untreated or treated - I've had trees with fungal diseases die very quickly, some I see keep going for a while.

That's just my opinion and I am not any sort of tree expert. I've just seen this a good number of times. I would definitely get a second opinion. I don't know where we you located. In the U.S., we have university extension offices that you can take something like this to and get their opinion at no charge. Another option is a certified arborist who may offer their opinion free of charge in hopes of getting some business.
8 months ago