Johan Fuglevik

I can now see that an area I mulched with woodchips earlier this summer is full of honey fungi (the thick black strands).
Earlier I have lost many young trees due to damage by water rat Arvicola amphibius followed by quick infection by honey fungi. I know use plastic protection on the young trees but I still lose some trees to honey fungi.

For the future I will try to always add spawn of good fungi when mulching. But it would be hard for me to produce enough spawn.


I don`t want to give the honey fungi the energy from the woodchips to cause more mayhem in the garden. How would you go about killing the honey fungi? Soap, bleach, synthetic fertilizer, burning or physically remove the mulch and soil?

I use newspapers and the worms love eating it. Unfortunately the badger loves eating the worms so everything gets messy.

I once worked at a factory we would put lots of cardboard covered with chemicals in the paper trash for recycling, the fees for paper trash being much lower than the unsorted stuff.
That might be a source for toxins in countries where newspapers contain some recycled paper.

With textiles I would be worried about possible flame retardants.

David are you thinking about the brusselsprouts elmoyster combo? The elmoyster is presented as a saprophytic nonmycorrhizal mushroom in the book. BTW there is a big disagreement to what fungi Stamets elmoyster actually is, most on shroomery seem certain that it is not the actual elmoyster but some other oyster...

I have the so called elmoyster now added in my yard as well as Stropharia rugosoannulata.

A blog with a lot of shorts about mycoremediation
http://radicalmycology.wordpress.com/

it also links to a cheaper book
http://www.newsociety.com/Books/E/Earth-Repair

Angelica archangelica, in norway vossakvann have stems of far superior quality compared to wild type.

Have you tried seakale?