David peckham

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since Sep 24, 2015
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Recent posts by David peckham

Hi, I built a 6" rmh in southwest Idaho, and it works just like its supposed to.  I'm happy to help others nearby, and into Eastern Oregon.  
Dave Peckham
5 years ago
I haven't found my cold RMH to be hard to light at all [caveat] except when its warmer outside than inside.  Paul's use of a propane torch seems like too much tech-- like using a chain saw to cut butter, or nukes to make electricity to heat your house.  It suggests that lighting one is complicated.  If I didn't already have an RMH the idea of needing to use a torch might put me off.

Lighting my cold RMH  involves crumpling up one sheet of newspaper and loosely stuffing it in the base of the feed tube, adding about 6 thin sticks of kindling, then lighting (kitchen match or BIC lighter) and dropping it atop the kindling.  The smoke and fire are drawn down, ignite the kindling and I add more and more as it quickly begins to roar.  Too easy.

If its warmer outside, as with an 11 AM lighting on a cold sunny day (sunshine on the top of the black chimney) it'll light just fine, then after about 20 minutes it starts to burp before filling the house with smoke.  I have to cover the feed tube with bricks to keep the smoke out.  Then I open the upper clean out, and let a little damp, sticky, partially burned smoke into the house and stuff several crumpled sheets of newspaper in to the flue, trailing to the clean out entrance.  Thats when I need a propane torch.  The downdraft is so strong that I have even failed to ignite an ounce of gasoline-soaked newspaper. (NOT recommended)   Its a miserable experience, last time it happened I decided to just wait until evening to build a fire.  

FYI, my RMH was first fired October 2017, is 6"  with (only) 12 feet of horizontal run and 22 feet of chimney rise.  I believe my run is too short because the chimney riser gets too hot to hold your hand on it, maybe 150˚F.  It draws beautifully.  
7 years ago
HI, On the thread of 'the barrel is too dangerously hot'  I've got I think, a simple question.  How hot should the barrel top be getting?  Depends?  OK, its a six inch system, with a masonry manifold, and I'm burning mostly pine and fir.  Its been up and running since late October, intermittently, because I dont live there.  There is still some moisture around the edges of the mass, but the burn chamber should be dry by now, no?  I've gotten it up to 520˚ F just over the top of the heat riser, after a brief burn of 1" minus sticks.  whaddya think?
Dave
7 years ago
I’m getting ready to build my first RMH.  The mass top will sit at floor level, 7 ½ by 8 feet footprint.

In February and March 2017, ---an extraordinary year for rain and snow in the Boise River basin--- I had water 8” above the  base of my future heater mass.  So I’m thinking of setting an outside row of concrete blocks, in cement mortar.  Two of the four sides butt up against, or rest on,  interior footing walls, so I’m not as concerned about settling and cracking.   Or  should I lay a concrete footing under the blocks spanning that 7.5 feet?  

I’m concerned about heat transfer through ground moisture, so I think a vapor barrier will be a good idea.  I thought it’d go inside the block wall.

Then, I’m thinking of lining the ground with perlite, an inch thick?  reducing heat transfer into the Earth.   I should also line the concrete footings with perlite.   I guess, I dont know!  

What do you folks in the know think?
7 years ago